Messages

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Just to clarify, when I said I wanted help pointing out where to look for mistakes/issues, I didn't mean a mistake made in the layout by |v|ark.  Lol sorry I'll just rephrase that part cause it sounded like I doubted |v|ark's work.  His layouts are amazing and I've already made more than 10 pedals from his work. If he's in this forum I just want to say, thanks |v|ark!  So to rephrase, where in the layout can I check for any mistake I might have made when building the circuit.

@Matmosphere, is it really just one repeat as stock?  I recall seeing a couple videos with the delay having more repeats? If it really has just one repeat, I think I need more reading on how to add a repeat knob. If it's possible.  Is it?

I was wondering if I can ask for help here about a vero project. If not allowed, mods it's okay to delete my post. Anyway here goes:

https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/02/mid-fi-electronics-clarinot.html

That's the vero layout and I built it but haven't boxed it yet.  Sounds amazing, weird.. but amazing. Although I could try and replace the LM386 chip used so I might look for something less harsher.  Anyway, I was waiting for the enclosures to arrive and all when I tested it again and noticed that the delay only had one repeat.  And then I realized, there is no repeat knob on this pedal! I watched a couple of YT vids and I knew right then that this is not how mine should sound like. SO, I just want to ask anybody to please point me to where I can look for faults/issues/mistakes on the vero layout there? Specifically the part where I can possibly check why this only gives out one repeat. I don't want to add another knob for repeats though.  The stock clari(not) is good enough for me. 

This is my first delay pedal project mind you. So I'm not that familiar with how PT2399 works. I'm a total NOOB on delays/time based effects.

And... what would you suggest for a less harsher LM386 power amp chip? I read that the 386 isn't easy for a direct swap.

Thanks in advance!

I searched after reading your post and read that some will add vinegar on water where you dip the decal. Does it flatten/ go smooth by itself? Or should I flatten it myself after adding vinegar?

Why don't you try a different type of pick? Material/shape/thickness.

Putting the enclosure graphics is the part I don't like a bit.  I have used stickers, markers, mod podge, and water slide decal.  It's the decals I am having difficulties.  What I do is I print on inkjet decal (sorry, don't want to invest on laser printr). Then after ink dries I spray topcoat. After top coat dries, I cut to size and dip in warm water, then slide on to enclosure.  After drying, I cut the holes and then spray top coat again then dry.  My problem is, after drying the top coat, the lines get all wonky and wrinkle.  The decal moved or shrunk or something.  What am I doing wrong?  Did I just leave it under the sun for too long? Is the decal reacting to the type of top coat used? I've messed up two pedals but luckily the owners were okay with them.  Kinda made it unique or something. lol

Isopropyl high % worked, although it took a while and left small blemishes w/c can be fixed through light sanding.  I tried acetone on the back cover and yes you are all correct, it messed up a small area I was wiping.  Thank you all for the advice.

Okay so I have an extra enclosure from a delay circuit that I modded and rehoused. This enclosure was powder coated to army green and then the manufacturer painted the labels and brand on it. I made a vero EHX Green Russian Muff PI circuit w/c will perfectly fit the enclosure, 3 knobs, 2 jacks, dc jack, footswitch. My question is, is it possible to just remove the painted label and design and not damage or take off the powder coat? Sanding here is a big nope. The powder coat finish is a matte army green and perfect for the Green Russian. What should I use? Paint remover? Acetone? Thank you in advance. 😊

Holy !@#% I just accidentally found out why this build sounds bad.  I was dialing the only knob near zero! I tested it right after I got home and thought, let's just try and crank this up. and? Instant face melting distortion. Great for full on power chords! I had no idea! First time I tested it, volume scared the hell out of everyone in the house so I tried to look for almost unity volume and thought that was it.  I was using it the wrong way. lol

note though, I cranked it to full and I heard a radio station... 

I saw a simple schematic about bmp tone control and built it on vero.  Actually my first time to convert a schematic to vero but still, it was 7x5 size and no matter what I do, it was still difficult to put in the 1590a. So I'll try the low pass filter. 

I consider myself still a newbie about everything regarding pedal building.  I keep learning what I can every step of the way.  So please bear with me, still a noob.  So I've read some of the links you gave me and was wondering if there was any way to just add a switch to activate the low pass. Parts/values will be set in the switch on and no need for 100k pot and then switch to volume pot IN.  I saw somewhere in youtube a guy who showed the guts of his pedal w/c he wired a low pass filter, but I couldn't see it clearly.

Thanks Jack and benny.

There is a no slope version. http://www.hammondmfg.com/dwg16.htm#noslope

Good suggestion Jack. Will do that after I try and connect a bmp tone stack in the circuit and see if it changes the tone.  Only problem is if I make tonestack on vero, I'm afraid it won't fit the 1590a or could be a tight squeeze.  But then there is the problem of adding another pot. Wanted just one big knob on this build.  maybe a 9mm pot will do.

Anyway I tried the pedal on my LPs with PAF-like pickups and seems that the low strings sounds round and muddy.  It's like treble and bass are all on full.  I listened to videos of DIY builds of this pedal and they sounded like they can chug on this.  I should've tried this on my ibanez with hot pups.

Also, I changed the the 4n7 cap to 10nf and it took away the sharp treble but now it became more muddy.

i found a number but the dude who answered said he doesn't know any Tayda company I got the wrong number. lol  Anyway this was resolved.  They replied to my email and the only way was to cancel the order and place another one again and then pay right away after checkout.  Thanks jimilee.

Now how do I delete this thread?

Looks like a proco rat's.   I like it too. I read somewhere and that looks like a Hammond 1456.  There's a sloped one if that's what you're after.

https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2015/11/earthquaker-devices-acapulco-gold.html

Finished wiring this up but haven't boxed it yet. I made just the one knob version and at full volume on my guitar even with the one knob on the circuit at 8-9 oclock the sound is too trebly. I used two les pauls on this and it really hurts my ears. Any one tried adding a treble cut switch? or what do I need to change here to lessen treble, the 4n7 cap? lower the value? I didn't want to add the gain pot coz I wanted the pedal to look simple on a 1590A enclosure.

All them would be my suggestion.


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yup, I checked everywhere but nothing.  No pay now button in Tayda page, no invoice received in my email.  I guess that time you placed the order where you're led to paypal is the only chance to pay?  does anyone have their phone#?  I can't find one too.