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A diagram would sure be appreciated.

I have two zombii boards that I would love to turn into fatfuzz factory pedals.  If I understand correctly The fat fuzz factory is the same as the original but has an additional three way switch from hat effects tone.  Is anyone familiar with this?  I really like putting these kits together but I don't really understand the inner workings very well FYI. Thanks in advance. !

Thanks a lot for the info guys

Hi.
I know effect order switchers have been covered here and elsewhere before but I am trying to build one with a master bypass stomp switch as well.
Basically, I would like to plug two effects into a box and be able to turn them on and off individually, switch their order, or bypass them both completely.  That would mean four different stomp switches.
Apologies if it's already out there but I have not found a layout for anything that could do that. I feel like it shouldn't be that difficult to make but I can't get my head around how to do it.
Thanks in advance for any help. I have built a few pedals from kits and a few from madbean PCB's but my understanding of this stuff is pretty limited.

really nice looking!

Results of continuity test:
                         
With one end of the continuity tester staying on the input tip I tested for continuity at these points:

3PDT lug 1B
3PDT lug 3C
3PDT lug 2C
output jack tip lug

At each of those points there is continuity. 

I then checked for continuity to ground and there is also continuity to ground at each of those same points.  Thats a problem right?

It helps that I actually built one of these before for a friend that works great.  I have it here in front of me now and at the points in the circuit I mentioned there is no continuity to ground.

I dont see what could be the problem tho because they are wired identically.  I have gone over everything multiple times now and I see no difference.

Yes C11 is reversed according to the PCB but only because the PCB is wrong.
From the PDF:
"There is a small error in the layout of the PCB. C11 needs to be reversed on the diagram 
below. The "+" side should face C12, and the "­" should face the volume control.  "

I will try the continuity test tonight when I have the time.  I think I understand what you guys are saying to try.  I'll report back with results.

Thanks!

Ok I got a new 3DPT and I tested it out before I installed it.  I took extra care when soldering and Im sure no joints are cold and all connections are correct.

Same exact problem!  It must not have been the 3DPT I guess.  What should I try next guys?

I reviewed the board and all joints look really clean and correct.  The pots are hooked up right and so are the in and out jacks.  The only thing that doesn't look perfect is the boss adaptor.  It doesn't look bad- just could be a bit cleaner- could that be causing this problem?  I am thinking of just getting a new DC jack and in/out jacks and just redoing the whole thing.

Just to reiterate, there is no signal whether the pedal is bypassed or engaged.  When engaged there is some static when you turn the pedal volume up.  The LED works properly.

So what would YOU try next?

Interesting.  On one had it sucks I need to order a new 3DPT but on the other hand I guess it means I didnt totally screw it up.

Is it rare to get a bad 3DPT like that?

btw, thanks for all the help guys- I never would have figured that out.  I am going to order a new switch and try that out- I will post the results.

Thanks for all the input mgwhit.

I reflowed all the joints on the 3PDT, input, output, and DC jacks.  I made sure the tip lug was not shorting out on the case wall.  Same problem tho- no signal bypassed or not.

Then I broke out my continuity tester and tested the things you mentioned.  I should not that while the lugs on the 3PDT are not perfectly soldered they are certainly not grounding or touching anything they should not be.

Bypassed:
"When the effect is bypassed, there should be continuity between 2A & 3A, 2B & 3B and 2C & 3C.  There should not be continuity between 1A & 2A, 1B & 2B or 1C & 2C."
PROBLEM- there is continuity between 1B and 2B.  I also noticed that while there is not continuity between 1A and 2A, when I connect them the LED lights up.


Engaged:
"When the effect is engaged, there should be continuity between 1A & 2A, 1B & 2B and 1C & 2C.  There should not be continuity between 2B & 3B or 2C & 3C."
PROBLEM - I am seeing continuity between 2A and 3A, as well as 2B and 3B.

I have tested all these things several times to be sure and I am positive these are correct readings.  Any idea what they mean?

Thanks for the tip madbean.  I checked everything over and over again and I cant find a problem.

Would it help if I reheated all my solder joints on the input, output, DC, and switch?  They all look OK to me buit Im thinking maybe one of them is cold. 

Is that a good next step?  What would you more intelligent people do next?

Thanks for the input.  I thought it may be a wiring problem so I checked a rechecked all my connections and I believe that they are all good.  I cant find a short anywhere either.

This is easy to do with the continuity test on a DMM as long as you know which lugs are supposed to have continuity in each switch position.  

Im not sure how to do this- anyone have a link?  Do you guys think it would help me?


And I did check all my jacks about 5 times now lol.  I believe they are all right

Hi

Im having some trouble with my poindexter build and I could really use some help.

When I hook everything up there is no bypassed signal at all, totally muted.  When I engage the pedal the LED lights up and there is some static that changes when I adjust the knobs on the pedal but there are no notes or signal from the guitar.  This is the same wether I use my one spot adaptor or a tested 9 volt battery.


I built the pedal exactly to spec, no changes at all.  I did remember to reverse C11 as it is noted in the PDF.
Here is the poindexter PDF:
http://madbeanpedals.com/projects/Poindexter/docs/Poindexter.pdf


There are 5 transistors, all 2n3904.  Here are the voltage readings I got on from them:
Q1:  E:  0
        B:  1.2
        C:  5.2

Q2:  E: 2.8
        B: 0.6
        C: 4.4

Q3:  E:  0.8
        B: 0.8
        C: 3.2

Q4:  E:  0.8
        B: 0.8
        C: 3.2

Q5:  E: 0
        B: 0.4
        C: 5.8

And reading from the diodes:
D1 A- 0
      K- 0

D2 A- 0
      K- 0

D3 A- 0
      K- 9




Here are some pics:  I really tried to light them as best as I could.

FYI, radioshack does sell 2n3904s for $1.17

thanks for the offer tho madbean!

@Madbean if you have a couple I sure could use em.  I'd be happy to paypal you a few bucks for your trouble, shoot me an email or private message or whatever its called and I will give you my address.

  I appreciate it man - your boards rock too - this is my fifth madbean build!