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I like your design !

I happen to have just finished my build of Misfit today too, here's what it looks like (did I say I love Tayda UV printing already ?)

This weekend I'll hear what the kids (who can actually play) make of it :-)

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Also while talking about misfit, if you ever respin it, small suggestion: if you can, add half a mm more room for C4, quite a few 220n film caps are a bit fatter:-)

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Nothing of consequence... Shopping list calls for 2 x 9k1 resistors but there's only one in the B.O.M :-)

Made be check the schematic & Aion's version to be sure I wasn't missing something :-)

@madbean ^

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Tayda delivered, I found some time, here's the next toy for my bassist son !

Only quickly tested on a guitar which I can't really play, it sounds glitchy and all over the place but I think that's the spirit :-) Definitely not meant to play a guitar chord through that thing !



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It's be easier to just not buy the caps with the  gold leads. Sounds like they're more expensive and more hassle.

This :-) I'll go through the ones I have and then go back to my stock of Panasonics, Kemet and Wurth :-) (I still use those for the non audio path too, mostly Wurth)

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So in the end, shortening the legs, fine grit sandpaper, cleaned with IPA and plenty flux does the trick :-) they still need a bit more time with the iron on the legs than the other ones but it's not as crazy ... Hopefully they'll all work when I'm done with this build (Boom boom, only using the FG caps for the audio path 1uF's).



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Hello all.

Received 4x boards earlier this week, and making good progress. 

So far, mostly going welll however, it seems the Burly Bear documentation and currently shipping boards are not quite matching up. Is there a new rev of the documentation that correlates with the current board layout?


Thank you

Make sure to use the link from the store page. If you just Google you usually end up with the older PDF

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What board are you soldering them in to?

I had the issue with several, including Anamorph, and recently TH's Tube Driver (madbean is out of Archibald and I wanted a second one :-) So I don't think it's ground plane sucking heat. It does happen with both legs and every time with those specific caps.

As for the other replies, I have been fairly 'liberal' with the flux pen but it might be a crappy one... I'll look into getting some paste.

That said I am not new to soldering and it's the first time I hit something like this. It could be oxidation of the legs I suppose. I'll see if cleaning them helps next time.

It does look like the cap itself is sucking all the heat :-)

I will sacrifice one or two on a bit of vero to see if I can find a magic solution. Maybe going hotter on the Weller for less time...

I might try with leaded solder too... I mostly switched to unleaded to appease my better half but it's been a while and no issue with Wurth, Panasonic or even other Nichicon caps. Only those fine gold ..


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Hi Folks !

Just wondering if this is just me ... I grabbed a few bags of Nichicon "fine gold" caps from pedalpartsaustralia.com.au (I think stompboxparts has some too), and I've been somewhat struggling with soldering them :-)

I never had that problem before, it's odd... the leg sizes are no bigger than other caps but for some reason they behave like the fat legs of black diodes, ie, it takes a LOT of heating before the solder adheres to the leg. At that point, the cap itself becomes really hot and I already had to replace one that was acting as an open circuit, I suspect due to heat damage.

I normally solder at 380C using lead free solder, I've done it for years, and never had such a problem. I usually don't need to heat a component for more than 1s.

Am I doing something dumb here ? :-)

Very nice!

Always nice to see some shrink tube!

I can't have enough of the stuff :-)

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Here's my Imp build ! I called it YAK (Yet Another Klon). Artwork is good old water slide, before I started playing with Tayda UV. It's an AI generated Centaur with a Yak's head :-)

The mod you can see is a switch doubling the 3n9 tone cap. I should have called it "Fat" rather than T-Boost I suppose....

Ge diodes are D9Es from DIYguitarpedals AU

It sounds great! :-)

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Alright, the semi beginner hobbyist here ...

I got my first Tayda UV printed enclosures done. A few minor mistakes but nothing catastrophic, it's great ! And the lot on Linux without using any commercial software (Inkscape for most of it and Scribus to fix up the colors and generate the layered PDF)

Unboxing these and seeing the result felt good :-)

Same issue with mine. I can sometimes get it to oscillate with delay all the way down and the lvl trimmer all the way up.

In fact I find the repeats too faint overall with the lvl trimmer anywhere lower, but maybe that's just me ...

I've tried reducing r45, and that definitely makes it oscillate if I bring it down quite a bit (below 50k). I only did quick & dirty experiments holding another resistor across so nothing precise, I'll try to solder a trimmer across instead.

I'm interested in seeing where you go with this. I'm already thinking about modding mine.

Check out the build report I posted earlier this week: https://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=35562.0

Hi Folks !

So here's the Archibald I made a little while back (and forgot to post about). A few mods in there that might be of interest to folks, and a few "issues" (screwups by me ? :-) in no specific order:

* Took C18 out (between LT1054 pin 1 and ground). I don't know why it's there and Mr Bean either... but in my case it causes the charge pump to fail to start on a cold start 80% of the time, resulting in a rather shitty sounding pedal :-) Pin 1 is "shutdown" when driven to ground. It looks like this cap is big enough to cause my "variant" of LT1054 to see pin 1 asserted before the cap has time to charge and shuts itself down. The cap eventually charges, so a quick power off/on of the circuit kicks it into life. No C18 works best :-)

* I replaced R5 with something much smaller (1k5 off the top of my head). This is closer to some variants of the Tube Driver schematic where that resistor is absent and gives a bit more "clean" range at the beginning of the drive pot. There's some sweet spot there for a mild tube sound which I quite like when I'm not cracking it up fully.

* R18 to V- instead of GND. Otherwise the JFET buffer operates between GND and V+ instead of V- and V+, you lose half your headroom and I've observed it clipping early with the scope, which is not what you want your buffer to do.

* I used a 1590BB2 because Tayda doesn't do BBS and ... it's TIGHT :-) It would be nice if that circuit ever get respun, to have the tube sit one or two mm closer to the face instead of so far down near the lid. I had to "incline" the PCB downards (by taking out the inner nut of the switches and screwing them down further) to avoid having the tube hit the lid. It's unfortunate because it should fit with that one mm extra. If that makes the tube socket too close to the angled connector, then maybe put the connector on the side of the tube rather than below it, a bit like the "wings" that SushiBox/CCE uses ?

* I was dumb and put the jacks & power on my usual spot for a 1590BB2 rather than one the side like the Archibald template suggests. As a result the tip of the output jack almost touches the tip of the tube ... it's very very close. I dodge a bullet here, pfiew !

Otherwise it works and sounds great ! (The little drawing is courtesy of some random online AI :-)


 

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