Topics

I've been enjoying this pedal a bit since I built it a week or so ago, but the sustain knob seems to from 0-100 at 1 and 1000 dimed out.

What resistance pot would give it more range without losing much of the stock half way point or is it supposed to be an untamed beast? XD

I followed the standard build guide.

I can find a short anywhere, haven't put it under the scope yet.
I would imagine this isn't normal, but it functions as expected and without power the bypass works as well.

Kind of at a loss, second question.
With the dip switch, what selection would be most big muff stock?
Kind of liking the extra bass mode at the moment.

Finally got to build this sucker, haven't boxed yet and found a possible issue.

When I turn the Comp knob past half way it lowers the audio to mute.
What could be the likely culprit? I doubt this is designed and I will look for micro bridging.

SlowLoris2020 sounds so good, really liking the multiple voicing.
Wasn't the rat asymmetric already or is stock different from the rat?

I ordered parts for the mudbunny when I have the pigbutt, guess I'm just going to have to order the mudbunny board earlier. 

So before I make another mistake, I've ordered some parts and thought I'd use some I had for the triplet and want to make sure the value won't change the pedal too much or ruin it.

65k Metal / Carbon Film 1/8W (3) using 68k as sub, a few others I used 1/4W and I don't think those will make a difference other than poking up from the pcb a bit.

I am working on making a few boxes ready to print and populate with projects.
This could become a regular thing I do, I could also create a physical drill guide that can be easy to handle, possibly be reused for other projects or even mixed and matched for a more customized experience.
No one is downloading these yet, but I'll keep adding them as I make them for my projects.

Post edited to remove bloat no longer relevant.

Pinning file links and attachments here.
SlowLoris2020 : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4871463
Fireaxe : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4882399

Noise Gate
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015ZDDF0S
or
[youtube width=600 height=300]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wE94-lrF4Z8[/youtube]

Anyone else have a suggestion as well?

I've been using songsterr and the tabs sound mostly right, but I have come across several that were off and most recently Metallica - For whom the bell tolls is way off.
Who ever is submitting these either doesn't pay attention or just guesses. XD After the 10th bar the song clearly changes, but the tabs continue on like no one would know.

Chevelle - The red is another example, I tuned to it and it sounded way off, which is another issue I have noticed, tuning and BPM aren't accurate, at least when I googled the Metallica song it came up 112BPM and the tab suggests 118, but even that gets a bit shady since other websites claim it is 118 on the remastered. 

Ultimate Guitar has the same problem, but it's even worse with several variations of poorly written tab and it just looks bad too which makes it hard for me who is only 6-8 months into learning to even work it out and the paid version seems to be the same tabs with more options for how it's displayed.

So does anyone know of a website that has accurate tab or sheet music?

1n60p and 1n34a are pretty scarce on mouser, what can I use to sub?
Prefer to stick with mouser, have a huge order to make and Tayda isn't shipping for up to 7 months currently according to some recent posts. 

Last part for the Triplet that I can't find, did have to make a few substitutions on resistors, no 65k so using the 68k I have and a few had to be 1/4w with only a couple 1/8w sized... 

BAT41/1n914?

I have both of those on hand, thanks to paul and his 7-min fuzz experimenters kit. was saving one to make a second bazz fuss with the bat41 or 1n914 with a built in volume boost. 

1n914 seems the closest candidate between them. Just going to use the 1n914 I guess. if someone comes along before mouser ships I'll try and get it changed. XD

I've finally managed to join the tube amp club, Bugera V55HD. 

how do you enter? 

I know I am cross posting, but... no one seems to really check this sub topic.

Need help doing some diagnostics, danfrank set me on a course of what to check, now I need someone smarter to confirm.
https://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=32433.msg312601#msg312601

This was a nice and easy build, sounds cool too.
With a little bending and pushing the wires are holding the pcb in place pretty well and added some hot glue to just make sure nothing bounces around.

3D printed 1590B was definitely more of a joy to work in than the 1590A. XD

Was wondering if there is one or if you can make one up Brian.
Maybe you could make it have both and optional to have both on or one at a time.

All knobs or sliders for the 7 band if reasonable to build.

This thing is awesome!
It's even more than I expected and it was fun to build... Haven't messed with the trimmers other than setting them to middle.

Interesting question to add, the LED next to the 3mm screen print lights up, the other I didn't notice and the really interesting question SND, RTN are they functional and can they be used?

v

I'm looking at picking up one or two of the three designs available, which sounds most like the original pedal?
I know there is a opamp verison of the big muff, but not sure if that can be bypassed to have the original sound or not.

If the opamp can be bypassed with the MBP versions then the choice is simple, PigButt2019 over RabbitHole2020, MudBunny2020 seems to have more features and would likely be worth also building, but if all three are different in some way then building all of them would be worth it too.

Who am I kidding? I'll probably end up building all of them and the rest of the shop at some point. 

Is it just me or does the tone knob not really do anything?

Maybe I have a bad knob or it broke when boxing, but I can't for sure remember if it did much to change the sound and I currently hear little or no difference.

Wish Brian had these in a pcb format, but part of the fun of DIY is making it all yourself.
Took some old speakers and cut the box down to only keep the 10's and added a switch that goes between 1 speaker (8 ohms) and series 2 speakers (16 ohms).
It's kind of crude and ugly looking, but I'll cover it later.

Then a 3D printed box with A/B switching to switch between my Mackie mixer and focusrite 4i4 at my amp input.
I couldn't think of a better way to route my guitar from my mixer to the focusrite and back to the amp when I wanted to monitor what I was doing on my pc while keeping the audio separate, yet available at any moment I felt like practicing or playing rocksmith.
It's complicated and crude, but meh. It made me happier. XD

The tape is there while the wood glue cures and seeping out caulking will be cleaned away later, it's closed, but sounds really good set at 16 ohms.
One speaker had a tear and the other a small spot beginning to tear, super glue cured that issue rather easily.

I am working on the snarkdoodle, I have a 1n4002 handy and was wondering if subbing any 1N400X in a pedal with a lower or higer part # value is fine?
To me in a protection circuit it looks like you can sub a 1N4004 with a 1N4007 simply because it can handle the required reverse voltage, more than double, but not less than specified if 1N4004.

I've mostly found people saying for clipping it doesn't matter really, but harder to find an answer I currently understand regarding protection circuits. 

I'm getting ready to build a triumvirate, I noticed the audio jacks aren't on the top with the screen Jack like other builds.

Is there enough room to squeeze them in or is it too cramped?
I'm using the 125B and have thought to keep it a future option to include the battery hardware, but if shifting everything lower works to make room I'd skip the battery.

Using my 3D printed 125B as a temporary box, haven't drilled it yet, but used my punch to push the dimples into the plastic.