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That sounds great.  I never really liked the use of the boost section on the fd2 except for on bass.  For some reason it has a more pronounced boost on bass.  On guitar, it makes a slight difference, but not a ton of boost.  When i built my deadringer, i had just finished a krankosauras and i liked the idea of an indepenent boost, but didn't know how to implement it on the deadringer.  i might build another one if you decide to do it.

Yeah, you can use the max1044 also.  Ive usd both.  The biggest difference is that the max1044 can handle up to 9v and the tc1044 handles 12v (i think). Just make sure you use a well regulated power supply when powering so you dont overload the chip.  Ive done that with the max1044 by using older boss adapters (from the 80's).  Also, dont plug the chip in backwards unless you like the smell of burning plastic and wasted money.  (ask me how i know)

Ive used all of the pairs he sells and they all sound good.  My favorites are the "u.s. pair". I think they are only a couple bucks more than the sino's, but they are a bit darker and smoother.  The U.S.-Sino pair is great also.  Kinda the best of both worlds.  Has the bite of the sino with the smoothness of the u.s. 

That's quite manifesto.  I am curious about this concept of which you speak.  I took a couple of programming classes in college and hopefully retained some of it.  I have wondered about some of the electro harmonix pedals like the memory man with tap tempo and other digitally controlled timing.  Is that an example of what you're describing or do they use converters?

Congratulations.  The first build is hard to beat in terms of satisfaction.  It's a great feeling playing through a pedal you just built. 

This will not be a problem if I use MN3005's right?

Not certain, but i built the 3005 version and didn't have this problem.  I was very strict to the BOM (no part subs) and it fired right up.  You may want to socket any subs or parts you may suspect need tweeking.  But it is most likely a difference betweem the two versions from what I can tell.

Yeah, the pnp version gives you way more options for transistors.  If you do npn, i suggest the oc140's from small bear.  It's very tough to find good sounding npn's.  Even though they're pretty expensive, they are the best deal i've found.

Great job on the website, Jacob.  Looks quite baller. 

I notices the whine goes away on the dirtbag when i touch the level pot so it should be fine when i get it in the enclosure.  I cant wait to get it finished.  After further measuring, i have decided to go with the 125bb cause the 1590bb was just a bit too small height wise for how i plan to mount it.  If i had mounted my resistors on the front side, i probably could have made it, but i would have had to go with smaller caps in some places.  It still would have been close.  Within a couple of milimeters.  I advise you to do alot of planning if you're putting this thing in a 1590bb with a road rage (3005 version).  The 3205 version should fit no problem.

If you use npn's, you don't have to reverse the polarity, so no need for the road rage.  You will need to flip the polarity of the electrolytic caps and diode. (brian explains what to do in the build doc.)

I bought some solid core a while back. It's pre-tinned.  Pretty decent.

Wicked builds and demos.  Dymo labels are probably my favorite form of labelling.  They always look cool.

Those are stellar, man.  I'd love to get a look at them guts, though.

The 7815ckc should work.  I used the L7815cv from tayda. 

Beautiful build.  Now go blow up some amplifiers.