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Thanks Bio but it was just my cranial flatulance about the polarity. My Tourbus was all over like that as well but worked just fine w/o anything producing smoke. I put a 51pf cap in the c23 socket(s) like you would a 60 and now it's just setting the trimmers for 'optimal' flanging w/o self oscillation. Preferring this 1 over my Current Lover because that 1 has a heavy need for a boost pedal after it with the vol trimmer maxed out.


It's a 60 watt Weller, it's plenty hot enough, more than 20seconds guarantees delaminating the copper layer on 'thinner' boards, IE I think Brian's are among the few I've held on longer and NOT had them pull up and 1 or 2 from others that more than 10secs pulled traces/solder pads off in the solder sucker when I had to reposition a potentiometer or replace a resistor (looking at you cheaparse o-scope that I had to put 1/4's in because the printing was so bad on the 1/8th watt it came with ><).

Gave a once over glance, the polarity diodes actually worked, the power header was turned around. Somedays I do live down to the nickname...out of the box had some hellacious ground noise but now I might be fine adjusting the trimmers.

I did write them here. I'm using B's suggested dunlop psu. and empty sockets it was either at 18.3, for pin 1 sometimes, frequently at pin 4 on 8pin chips, which were supposed to be 0, the constant drop voltages on every other pin starting at 4~5 volts and slowly tick downs to .03. and as I added IC's ALL pins were at the range of 18.19 to 18.2. The cap going off like popcorn happened the 1st time I started to check the pin voltages and I just set aside until that amp sized cap arrived.

other side of board, forum freaked posting both on same msg

Ok, now I'm trying to see wtf I did to this 1. I hope nothing fried when I put the previous wrong 470uf cap in (the 4v "popcorn") My voltage readings were either 18.3 or fast fade from 5 to .02 before I put the IC's in. I put the chips in sequentially, 4558's(cheapest to replace) followed by the 1458 then the 4013, then the 4049 aand finally the mn3k7, nothing smoked but all the pins jumped to .03 lower than the positive pin on the power jack. I socketed C23, has 2 120's in for now. I have sound on bypass, goes utterly dead on except teh spiked power on the ic pins turned on and the led is off. I ran a continuity test on the 3pdt and got connection where it's supposed to be.

Now wtbf I miss?

I wouldn't worry unless you're pumping serious amperage at or greater than 12~18volts through it. If it's just signal/led power no fears of it overheating.

New guy in the biz, place called sushiboxfx.com makes boards for tube effects that are easily supply  preamp feed/swap in on solid state power(he does it himself) doesn't have large runs so he sells out fairly quick but will get ya a front end similar to a 60's fender or marshall.

Nice effect with the color combo, and the percolator was pretty fluid for parts, even the originals, from the creator of Interfax,  were never the same batch to batch except for the general sound.

he said red powder then dipped the rest.

matter of which country you live in, think can get 1 in the US at most wally-worlds for like $20 ish. I also haven't checked that aisle for some time but even as high as 30 for a 'hobby' use only is cheap.

yeah... been there done that but to the 18v version of Callo.. I was at 1st wondering if you used a C instead of A taper pot but should have left a minimal signal at  near full turn. Also wouldn't suprise me if the same inverted polarity jolt toasted that 201.

Oh SH!T!!!! There goes the concert


Simple homage to classic entertainment never fail.

On other notes for power requirements.. 1 should ALWAYS recheck what's written on a capacitor. I somehow had my minor lysdexia kick in(normally it's outgoing, IE words typed/written backwards) and thought the voltage rating and temp rating were inverted...
4v cap+18v=electric popcorn 
Testing my IC sockets kept getting 3.6 to 4.2 volt readings.. then POWWW! the 470uf blew was a 4 volt max 85 C temp not 85v....

I've used an old printer PSU  for a 5~6watt headphone amp. If there's wires it can be red-neck engineered.

Only ac pedals I'm aware of are factory made relics from waaay back(like Les Paul still touring..) that were just adaptations of rack units to put on stage to replicate the fun they had in the studio.

This is a tale from the weird side. Got my tourbus assembled, voltage readings no were close to MB's but nothing off the scale. Said screw it put op amp chips in, nothing smoking(yes I know the smell after that TS build TO well...)ok, place the 571 and 4047.. still nothing cooking hot. place the 3005's... no need yet for the extinguisher.
I run a signal through, I get an effect without distorting!! Now it gets weird.... run away self oscillation from to much feedback, no big but does it from 1 o'clock onwards clockwise. I play with some other settings and I get a result similar using a Boss Slo pedal/swell effect but I can hear the pick strike.  And the punchline I have YET to adjust a single trimpot on the daughter board, it's how they came from Mouser
Any clue to the cause? go with the 'just match voltage on X pins via the 2 bias/gain trimmers or just leave it alone and make some funky sci fi BGM?

I'll post a pic later of the guts, most of my DMM readings were like 15.52 or 3.54 except a 2 pins that had juice that should have been dead but those were like .34

why they suggest measure from center, the smaller area is what is FLAT on the enclosure to have non-distorted images and the larger dimension is likely the outsides of the vertical(neither face or backing plates) and would need to know how close you can get to a side.