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may have to read the data sheets. I know in electrolytic caps can have same values but different lead spacings, volt ratings, lifespan...... but some other parts on Mouser are virtually identical and the different pre/suffixes are more a matter of manufacturing time frame like what year or some minor, hidden change half way through.

Come with me grasshopper.. I look at what I need for a job and have it half designed in my head on the way to Home Despot or ACE...
Dad was worse, he'd look at somebody else's and build to the size/capacities HE needed 
just think of the fun of developing new skills. and all the welding rods, drill bits and grinder wheels you're about to wreck!!
Now for almost serious, just have fun with it no expectations other than it's likely going to be heavier than you thought when ya 1st started building it.


Now to get rid of the stink from contact cement, been attaching tiger maple laminates half the day....

Cool, but the bonus pack needed THREE parts, was short a small 1uf aluminum cap.. no big, I'll tack it on the order for a couple chips off small bear

Well, just proof we don't quite grow up, just old and likely out we got to 17-18 instead of stopping at 11;)
That is 1 MOJO pedal, and I don't blame ya for avoiding T-Screamers, my luck sux with them I either have crackling like I messed up a solder joint or this last 1 just keeps melting bits in response to my trying to recycle hating on the shipping fees triple the cost of the smd parts....
Now I have to get back to the choice of whether I want my tourbus to be painted highway yellow/orange or the box with my boost and compressor in it(it's a joke on my ability , well lack thereof, to play)

It might help, but I've also seen relays for automotive use, box never opened dead on the store shelf.

That was the 1st thing I noticed you designed for 5v but the 1 spot was reading 3 or zilch. Try just a jumper instead of c1?

Think he's trying to see where he's losing 2 volts from when it's on the BB vs wired up as a circuit. Likely needs that 1~2 volts to magnetize the coil in the relay. If you will it's like trying to use a 10w amp to power a 100watt 15in speaker, there's some movement but you'd have to look directly at it to see. I'll stare at it for a few days... I'm a carpenter not a an engineer 

post study edit

looked at it a few minutes, which way is the relay connecting the circuit? IF the relay is a straight back and forth, like positions 3,4 connecting same time as 7,8 maybe 3,4 are swapped? or is it a rocker type connection inside? The 1 on the BB might be the rocker type but is the 1 on the pcb as well?

Not bad, I'm at the point of waiting for the board, I got the caps, op amps, and pots from Tayda so held off ordering from B until that box left CO. And yes, likely gonna make the NGE version(why some have 4 TS boxes, set and forget  )
I might make the artwork resemble a school bus though.. got cad orange knobs and led's or was that for the dual box with boost and compressor( I won't spell the joke out...who knows who's 'sensitive' about it around here....)

to hell with a Floyd laser show, that organ through a rat or a flanger....

I was wondering about the backside of the body but if that's standard I can just get away with using a template set for a flat top and play with the Keda made aniline  dyes(the factory is close enough direct mail orders only see 2 post offices...)to match the colors. But that'll be after I finish my moclery builds of left handed Rick anniversary issues
I guess we're all waiting for a soundbite of the humbuckers in action at this point.

Aye, if anything I want more pics so I can possibly fabricate a lefty version(never for sale... I'm terrible at it  ) It's your money other than the 1 who shares you're bed at night it's how YOU choose to spend it.

THAT'S my problem.. all this time I've been posting roods...

MOST pcb makers that have J!/J2 it serves as the in and out from the original audio path, IE where the guitar patch cables enter and exit. J1 is the inbound 'hot' or tip and J2 is the outbound hot/tip. a few companies are simpler and show them as I and O. J1 is from the sound source, be it guitar, keyboard... signal generator you dropped like 15 ~20 bucks to get.  J2 will head to the amp/speaker IF not using an audio probe(and still a good idea to use it anwyas to find where the signal died...)

wood is environment responsive, IF these things were made of ONLY plastic/metal then it'd be ok to see things maybe going a 1/8 turn out of tune from shipping. A stradavarius goes wonky sitting in a damp room for more than 1 hour ffs.... I leave wood for a build sit by my furnace for 6 months before I even THINK of drawing the body lines. While it's nice to hear that the factory corrected a minor issue most people can tolerate a bit of hard to notice scratch and dent to get the discount. I look at those marks and think not that bad, ever see what an axe looks like after you've had to use it to defend yourself middle of a bar fight?

I want to see a picture of this. I have Mugshot not in box yet, a cupcake that does NOT want to play with 1590A's( I keep having the wires to the pot snap at the solder, either end, from cramming it in><) and a 1590BB from a project that actually went in to a 125b... if you can't tell, I want the compressor(cake) almost always on and flip the mug's boost in for when I have signal drags/volume drops.

this thing has a consistent thickness. I'll get a Nisshi instead of another TI next time. I wonder if the ghost of SRV came to b-slap me because I paint my TS boxes in something other than green, my ts9 was red, this 1 the box was mid 60's Chevrolet blue....