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thank you, ever thing I found online seemed to treat the SMD like the through hole in regards to identification, like notches, dimples or paint dots, but not that line.  I bet it could have been removed with 1 of those hot air stations but I'm a skin-flint, even at $50 for a 6 use china throwaway is to much


only like $.70 max tacked on another order to replace it... I'll leave all the other parts on the old board until I get either a new pcb or a future project from B requires some smd parts.. is 2 basically brand new 3904 trans sitting there

Well... I need a new board now, went to try using a 30 watt weller iron to remove the old chip. Only applied for like 10~15 seconds and took the pads and couple traces with it Have to see what I can save of all the other parts ><

I'm fearing my inability to identify pin 1 of an SMD 4558 is to blame, but has anybody seen a puff of smoke waft out of their op-amp chip touching the wires to a 9v battery during preparation to use the DMM to check pin voltages? I went with polarity as marked on pcb and battery.
I've tried uploading a pic of the board but it's about as wonky as registering for the forum of who sold the board.... closest I have is a line from side to side that is to the left when you can read the writing normally and it's from texas instru I bought through mouser.
https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/pcb465/ bites even they have no documentation for building it, yet. The line as soldered is towards the mid electrolytic cap/ LED and away from the jack grounds/power wires. Can anybody assist with which way this thing is supposed to go? I think I may have already cooked the chip but I'll just tack a new 1 on to the order for the parts if it is fried when M'bean releases Tourbus

Late edit, anybody have an idea which end was pin 1?
<a href="https://www.imagevenue.com/ME14WUTG" target="_blank"><img src="https://cdn-thumbs.imagevenue.com/a6/bc/bc/ME14WUTG_t.png" alt="SMD 1pjt.png"/></a><a href="https://www.imagevenue.com/ME14WUTH" target="_blank"><img src="https://cdn-thumbs.imagevenue.com/85/f9/60/ME14WUTH_t.jpg" alt="SMpjt.jpg"/></a>my apologies IF the thumbs aren't showing.

I'm not to surprised on the mix.n.match of through hole and SMD. 1 or 2 amp kit makers have switched to similar. Solid states(the SMD, I guess) for the power and tubes(tried and true analog tubes/through hole) on the audio path.

I think I see writing on the SMD transistor, might have to turn it in a yellowish tinted light to see. I was looking inside a walrus aud's Lillian  for an attempt to make an 'improved'(mine the rate knob only works on the top 1/3~1/2) A couple trans were faint like that.

I'm left wondering do we make the jumper from actual resistor 46 or from the former spot that is now resistor 42? that's the confusion, the 'updated' pdf hasa pic from the spot/42 BUT the WORDS say r46....