Messages

No fair getting yours done before mine, git! 

You used the only 20KW pot we had too, in  the dumberoid!

OD-820 built on a Nimbus board.

Great sounding pedal, possibly a Klon killer.  Hard to judge after a couple of days.

Aion did a fantastic job on the PCB, really easy to build.

The Kraken is great, not as versatile as the Mutron III, but a hell of a lot easier to dial in.
I someone wants a simple to use and great sounding envelope filter, it's the one to build.

Been a while since I posted some new builds, these have all been completed in the last 3 months.
Some very familiar artwork.

DLS built on a Poodle pcb.




Speedy Marie on Jubal81's pcb.




Tweed 57 on VIPFx pcb.




Behemoth on Rej's pcb.




Duovibe on Function f(x) pcb.




Kraken on Madbean's pcb.




IC Big Muff on Poodle pcb.




Fuzz Face/Tonebender on Function f(x) pcb.

I've at least took the time to build it on a card table.

My card table is like that where the drill bit has touched it.

We built a klone a while ago which the owner wanted more bottom, so did the C2 mod, but someone mentioned that reducing R14 to 1K5 from 15K added even more bottom.  Tried it and found it a little too mushy, so we changed it for a trimmer.

I  just chose the 4K7 as its around where the trimmer was set, sounds great.  Best bass OD I've heard through my non bass gear, a Crate Powerblock and a 1x12 with a 55hz celestion G12H.  Very Motorhead even without a Ric.

First reply and WIN! I can't seem to find my mouser bag of 82nf.. so i went with a 100nf... 

That's the mojo out of the door, we all know the mojo is in the odd parts values, and unicorn tears.

BTW the Behemoth PCB is built and working, just waiting for John to do a decal.

Nice.  Easy build klone at last.

You ran out of 82nf caps.

Yeah.

Run the input to the board through a 3k3 resistor with a 470pf cap to ground at the board, that'll get rid of any signals over 100khz, ie. radio.  Some people just use a cap, but that can make it worse.

On a JCM800 that resistor is a 2W one, all the others are 1/2W.  Not sure why, but just be safe I used a higher rated one than normal.  A 1/4W would probably work, but the cost of a few pennies, it's not worth risking.

All the other resistors are 1/4W on the pedal.  I think they are 1/2W as they can also take more voltage, 1/4W can typically take 250V according to the specs, and the real amp would be well over 250V at some points.

We played it through the loop return on my Laney today, it's pretty amazing, and very quiet for a highish gain pedal.  It seems the internal layout is good for noise, and I've got an idea for another one after the revisited baby boobtube.

I was looking for that schematic.

I've changed it, the cathode followers are now biased for the 190v supply rather than something like 280v.

The tagboard is 2 columns wider than the boobtube twin, so should still fit with the same internal layout.

I have another confession I think.

4) I really, really, really enjoy Star Wars.

Jacob

Me too, but it doesn't feel too much like a confession to say so. Unless we're talking about the prequels.  If I liked those it would be a confession. I'm an episodes 4, 5, 6 guy.

*Points at user name*

EDIT: That doesn't really work when you're posting on Cleggy's iPad  /Juansolo (I always shoot first...)

Tayda ones in that, we also used 2k rate pots (recommended). It sounds a little different to mine which uses Futurlec 2A and 1k pots. But there's not much in it.

Not tayda.

They are the 50k-20m ones from rapid.

http://stompville.co.uk/?p=112

Some info here.  I wonder if the fetzer valve matcher gets different results?

http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=97502.0