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hmmm, nah that's someone else's board - but it does look like it uses the standard alpha type rotaries

cool layout, but I like mine better mostly just because those rotaries have a much smaller profile (and mount to the board at the same height as the pots).

If I can get a minimum of 3 people keen I'll order some more boards. $11 ea + $3 posted ANYWHERE in the world

Honestly, for what it would cost to post you a switch from New Zealand, you could buy 20 of them from China, and they'd arrive just as quickly/slowly or close enough anyway. I think last time I posted a switch, the postage went from $3 (for a board only) to $18 for board and switch...

Hey, yeah I did end up doing a small order of these boards. I'm all out now, But I could do another group-buy if there was sufficient interest...

I was working on this for quite a while.
The AD9 uses a 5 pin, 2 in 1 transistor package in the clock section, that I wasn't able to find.
I've subsequently redone the schematic using the clock section from the Boss DM2, but haven't redone my layout. I definitely want to have another go at this at some stage though. When/if I find the time....

What noise gate is that? And where can I get a board?

I'll double check, but I'm pretty sure I had used a 1k for the CLR, so that should be within spec

I ended up using a new board, opto and switch, and it's working fine.

I've swapped out the opto on the first board I was using but haven't tested it yet. I tried measuring resistance across pins 4-6 as above, but I couldn't get a reading.

That's what I thought. I'll report back later

I did consider that too, the switch checks out when testing for continuity, but I have a spare so try that if the opto replacement is no good

I thought the same thing so I reflowed all the solder joints, and pulled the wiring apart and rewired it, no joy.
I'll replace the opto this evening and see if there's any change

Can anyone confirm how easy these are to damage?

I spent several days debugging an HM2 build that had low output and was super thin and trebly sounding. I DID rock before boxing, but I tested with an optotron board already wired up. I've now removed the opto board and the HM2 is working perfectly. H11f1 had been sourced from smallbear FYI

Is it likely that I had killed the opto? And any way to test this?
I can check voltages and resistance on the opto if that will help ...

http://sound.westhost.com/project152-1.htm

A pretty extensive bass preamp. I'm about to get boards fab'd that include the input, tone controls, HPF, comp and drive sections as well as balanced outputs and a power board. Not sure how long you want to wait, but I'll have a few extra that I'm going to try to get rid of.

I'll take one off your hands when you get them in...

Help us to help you

We need voltages and photos of your build

Roger the Shrubber.

Tim the enchanter?

how about:

The Timbre Wolf

This deserves more attention.

I think I'll use this for something myself - maybe some kind of ring mod