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hey all,

its been quite a few years since i've been here, family and life gets in the way... i'm catching up on old projects... really old projects... been trying to fire up this pork barrel and i cant get it to work right.

I've tried reflowing all solder joints, the mn3101 and mn3007 are legit, they are off a project that was working... maybe they fried over the years... no idea.

i'm getting dry signal, some distortion when setting the trim pot on some settings, but no chorus, i've used Tl072 instead of jrc4558 and tl062, jumpers are checked and are ok, only thing that puzzles me are pins 1 and 7 on tl062, which do no not vary, and also pin 4 on the clock doesnt vary, but pin 3 on the tl062 does vary, so this might lead me to suspect a bad clock ? i have no replacement to check, but will order if you guys think its bad


these are the voltages

I recently came across a guy who does amazing woodwork for anything guitar, he also does pedal enclosures made out of wood.

I suggested he needs to sell those as the pedal market don't really have such options, I will post some examples here:

what do you guys think is a reasonable price ?

is 45$ shipped worldwide an ok price ?

will any of you be interested in such an option ?

Hey all,

I've just finished a cupcake build, no parts repalcements except i'm using OPA2604 as an IC.
I also didn't hook up the LED on the board, I've used the standard diagram with positive going into 9V and negative to the 3pDT.

when i turned it on it didn't work and made a very nasty sound, then after a few seconds R12 started to smoke and is now completey burnt.

checked all connections, pinouts etc and all seemed fine, any idea why R12 would smoke ? could the led not being connected on board (I left the LED connections disconnected) cause this and the circuit not to work ?

Will put pic up later, a unit i built to be sold on ebay.

https://soundcloud.com/user961120844/rangemaster-clone-with-yellow


enjoy

is 50$ a steep price for a NOS one?

anyone has a source for HIGH quality stripboards ?

I've had one fail on me due to traces "disappearing", had to go over everything with solder

After trying to get my wah to sweep a little better (the wah seemed to sweep almost instantly between bass and treble, very very sensitive to the touch), I tried various mods to make it sound better and make almost every position useable.

1.Changed C4 to 22n polyester cap (tried orange drops 715p in this position, it started oscillating in some settings, and 15n osscilates like hell with any cap i tried with some settings).

2. added the freq pot (the wah sounded too boomy to my ears without it.

3. added a pot for R4 (1k pot paralleled to 560ohm almost), so i can adjust the gain.

4. peak pot on the outside (makes some unusable settings, usable)

5. ICAR pot (Area 51).

6. Changed C1 to 22nf.

now the wah sweeps like it should (IMO) and sounds awesome in any setting.

I can do a demo, but only on friday and then i will post a build report and some pics.

came across this while searching for whipple on youtube.

I'm using a custom made inductor, but it seems the whipple demos are closer to the wah jakefuzz built.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xnjSgWUllrk

that is the sound i'm after, any idea how can i get remotely close with the weener ?

just now, my wife and 1 year old went to bed at 9pm, wife is usually up till 12am and we talk etc, we both work opposite shifts (only way i could take of my 1 year old at morning time, too young for kindergarden). so every free time i have i spend with my wife.

i cranked open some beer, sat down on the sofa and instead of "working" (i'm a musician almost full time, so instead of practicing basically) I sat down to watch TV (how i met your mother).

that's what i used to do before i was married, sit down, watch TV, then go practice for 4h-6h (guitar).

i've been married for almost 2 years.

I miss my old life kinda, I know this is far better, but real life is tough.


just had to vent

Hey all,

when measureing (9.22v) at tip, i get some weird voltages, i'll just write the weird ones.

(I have only a 5k6 instead of a 5k1 on R5)
(1uf film capacitors)
(1n4004 instead of 1n4001)
(using ICL7660SCPA charge pump)

IC1:

1 5.83
2 5.86

Ic2:

4 Positive voltage
8 8.81v

Ic3:

pins 4 and 5, positive voltages


I'm writing these from the top of my head, but that was weird to me when testing.

I'll write down later the weird ones for sure.

I suspect C17 as a faulty capacitor, could that be the case ?

For the 1uf capacitors i'm using all film, so they are bipolar, no real difference with the + and - there.

zener diode is in the right direction.

also 1n4004 diodes are in the right direction.

same with the 1n34a diodes.

all ics are in the right direction also.

I will up pics later.

built 5 pedals this week, finally got around to them after building a SLO clone for almost a year.

one is a sunking, one is a compressor

3 more to come

sunking: (3 on/on/on switch for different diode clippings)



and the compressor: (compu like from FSB)

I ordered some from mammoth, hooked them up with a 4.7k resistor, but they won't light up, is there any difference between a normal led and a diffused one regarding how to connect them to the 3pdt ?

(the connection is ok, i tried with some other normal led and it works fine)

seems like all posts were removed from the forum, anyone got one ?

Hey Brian,

how about putting up a system where you buy a few boards you get one for free ?
or that's out of the question ?

might boost business a little bit, and be easier to convince the wife to buy stuff

for the clipping section, how do i wire the clipping section to that switch ? can anyone describe please ? even which wire goes to which lug ? don't need a full diagram :x

thanks in advance

is there any effect to using bipolar electros ? is putting them the "wrong" way in the pedal can cause some kind of effect ?

also, has anyone tried builds with only wimas and "other" capacitors ?

what is a good place to buy caps from (specially wimas)?

tried debugging for 2 days now, changes i made are

used bat41 instead of 1n34a
used c8 = 10n
c9 = 27n
tone knob = 10ka wired in reverse
switch for diode clipping = on/on spdt (could this be the cause for all my problems ?)


getting a really bassy sound and almost no gain at all.

tried changing diodes for 1n34a (after that changed to bat41)
tried changing ics (both)

missing a SPDT switch atm, so could this be the problem i'm getting almost no gain ? it's only a little bit distorted, volume seems ok, but almost no gain.

tried changing c8 and c9 to original and suggested values, but still remains the same

checked for bridges, it seems i have a bridge between ic chip number 2 (JRC4580) legs 1 & 2, also 6&7.

could those be the culprits ? I have no way to check cause i can't seem to remove the solder even with a solder sucker, it stays on the board and still gives me a connection between those legs, are they supposed to be bridged or is this my problem ?

all answers are appericiated

can anyone measure their measurements and post please ?

getting low volume + almost no gain

missing 2 1n34a's, can i switch to bat41/1n60 instead ? and mix with the leds and the two 1n34a that are already there ?

first project posting, not the best work but it works

this is i think my favorite dist/OD as of yet, great sounding unit, didn't change even one value, no mods whatsoever.