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I already have a Plexi that sounds awesome
still this is an amazing build and I bet it sounds the tits

painting enclosure now so may as well take pics when I'm done with that.
Sorry for the delays with pedal pron + messy gutshots haha

I'm working on a wiring diagram for you It has a main switch to go from parallel to series. 2 LEDs to indicate the mode, and as a bonus I'm adding a toggle switch to switch the order of the series configuration:  D1 into D2 or D2 into D1

Getting close! So I'll post what I have in a few hours


-Kaleb

wow this sounds cool

ahhh camera memory full, will get some pics up after work tonight. will get some soundclips done too.
Of course will have to take everything out when I paint it but my toaster oven should arrive today so should be able to get it done and boxed up on the weekend

got it all boxed up and working sweet, because of the pre-drilled layout was pretty tricky to fit everything in even though the enclosure is big, if the jacks and LED holes were slightly lower would have been so much easier but oh well. Will take some pictures soon and get them up.
Mudbunny built to Green Russian Specs, with a switch to change the tonestack between stock and Rams Head settings, a very nice but subtle change, Russian mode is a tad brighter and less scoopy, Rams Head darker and scoopier (obviously) and also a switch to bypass the tone section altogether (á la BMP with Tone Wicker) which gives a big boost and a huge open sound. This thing sounds great through my handwired 1987x Plexi with a telecaster, way better than the muddy sound I got out of the Current USA Big Muff.

yeah R18 and C11 directly on one lug of the SPST, wire going to ground pad, wires going from the legs of R18 & C11 to their non-grounded connections on the PCB

idea stolen from here basically
http://www.muzique.com/lab/tbypass.htm
except I also have the DPDT switching between different values of R18 & 19, with one lug of the 18 resistors going to the ground switch with C11. Have yet to test it out yet as I'm re-wiring with everything in the enclosure

didn't really explain it that well. Basically C11 and R18 run from the tone put to ground, and the tone pot bleeds off frequencies to ground. An SPST connecting the ends of C11 and R18 together, with the other lug connected to ground means when the contact is broken, the tone doesn't bleed the frequencies to ground, essentially bypassing the tone control altogether. If done properly, the muff should be boosted slightly, have a fuller sound, and the tone knob should do nothing when turned.
Basically the same idea as the tone switch on the big muff wicker pedal.

sooo cool

yeah I was right, followed someones advice in the wiring thread about not using battery clip and it's all set. Still had the ring of the input jack wired up.

Is it normal to have weird intermittent signal when the pots aren't in the enclosure?
I was testing it out outside the box but the signal kept breaking up and the controls kept doing weird things, then I screwed the three pots into the enclosure and it goes sweet. I'm guessing they need to be grounded to each other or something.

Sounds really nice with the russian specs, have R18 and 19 socketed, so gonna play around with Rams Head/ Triangle tone stack values also. It'll have a DPDT switch to go between Russian specs and Rams head, and also a SPST between R18 and C11 with ground to cut the tone control altogether

well I put them in there anyway, figured why not. Have wired everything up on the PCB, but still getting no signal when effect engaged and no LED lighting up.
I think it may be the way I've wired the power supply up, since I excluded the battery snap I may have connected it so when you plug in the power it just shorts the whole pedal
http://www.beavisaudio.com/techpages/PedalPower/
if you read down a bit it mentions how plugging in the power shorts the battery out, but since there's no battery there I may have made it short out the circuit instead, will have a look and see if reversing the red wires helps

another question while I'm waiting on the PCB how important is the separate part of the circuit (C14,15 D5 etc) It's not on a lot of the other schematics for the muff I've seen, what does that actually do?

so nice

yeah screw trying to fit those big carbon comp ones onto a little PCB, although I suppose you could just have them going vertically if you had enough room in the enclosure, but from memory the legs on them are real thick, at least the ones I used in my Plexi build were fat as, so you'd need to drill bigger holes

ok so the input/output/9v idea didn't work, no signal not even hum.
Re-did the madbean wiring, this time grounding the sleeve of the output.
Signal when bypassed AND signal when the switch is pressed, however it doesn't sound much different to the bypassed sound, and fiddling with the pots does nothing, so it seems like either the GGG circuit doesn't like the Madbean wiring, or I've done something wrong with the wiring, although it looks fine to me (albeit a little messy) and I'm certain I did everything right this time.