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For those interested.  I finally quit playing with it long enough to take a couple of photos for you enjoy.  I guess I really do need to leave this thing alone for a while.









Built in a craigslist gbc95 enclosure.  A few hairballs inside, but not too horrible.  Sorry no photos of the exterior, because I didn't do a single thing to it except clean it up a bit.  Nothing thrilling.  I really wasn't even going to do a build report but I wanted to endorse the product and give it the thumbs up.

The big button trannie is a 2n3569.  I bought 2 of them on ebay.  One of them was about right for q2 in a ff and the other one had a gain of about 350 and that's the one I used here.  Very cool looking.

So like I was saying, this is the most awesome wah I've ever played.  I still don't have it tweaked quite right I think, but it already sounds unbelievable.  It's just like Brian said- it's like it is puking up wah sounds. I loved it straight into the clean channel, but I couldn't wait to try it with the output buffer and some dirt. I didn't have my fuzz face handy so I fed it into my gruntbox, which is a triangle.  Holy freaking cow.  MONSTER toan.  This is what I'm talking about.  Now I need to get some delays happening.

Anyway, thanks to madbean for another great project.
Thanks to JakeFuzz and timbo for all the tips.
And thanks to jimmybjj for letting me peep that wiring scheme.  Which I totally ripped off and based mine on.  Those 2 ground pads up top really came in handy for the sleeves and I don't know it would have occurred to me to use them if not for your report.

cheers

Anybody ever get legit ones off ebay or have another good cheap source?  I know some of the major suppliers carry a few but I need 5 or 6 of them and was hoping to go cheap.  The ebay sellers out of hong kong are def cheap but they make me a little nervous so I was hoping someone here would know of a good seller.

thanks

Wow, this is a great project.  I've had this pcb populated for months and just never got around to putting it all together.  Well, it was super easy and it sounds great!  HIGHLY recommended.

I'm ordering some aluminum knobs from sb, so these little cream davies clones are temporary.



The case is some kind of black sparkle job from PPP, I don't know what it's called and it really didn't photograph that well.  I made the letters holographic, which is very tricky to photograph.  Oh well, I tried.



I might go back and and the switch for LFO since it's actually sounds better than I thought it would.  For now I just have couple of pin headers soldered in so I can add or take away a standard jumper whenever I want.  Same for the tails, but I'll just leave those on all the time.

Anyway, here are th' guts.



I hope you enjoyed.

[1)]

Hey all, I've got a couple of questions I'm hoping someone can help me with-

I'm going to build a qvibe one of these days and then box it up with my double flush circuit and maybe a pork barrel as well.  As such I won't be needing the trem portion of the qvibe.

1) From the schematic it looks like I can just leave off t1, sw1 and r5 and maybe that will be right.  What happens between Q2 and the ldr in all this has me a little puzzled though.  It seems like I'd have to jumper somewhere but I'm not sure.

Can somebody give me a hand with that?

2) I already have a few of 7371 lamps here and I'll have the room inside the 1590dd to use one.  I think the 7371 is rated at 12 or 14v.  Would I still want to run at 18v?

thanks

I just got a couple and dropped one in a sunking.  It sounds great with 9V with no whine or squeal.  I also fed it about 14.5V from a cheap wall wart but the sunking sounded a little muddy that way for some reason (my caps are all at least 35V).  Anyway, this chip can supposedly take up to 18V before it makes stink-stink.

I don't know how much interest there is in this, but I was thinking at least it is perhaps another alternative for Warhead and Boneyard builders?

Maybe someone else should try one of these out and verify it.

cheers

Hi

Is there a point to installing C7 in the Zygote if I have a Road Rage providing -9v to the circuit or is it redundant?  Can I/should I leave it out?

What about D1 of the Zygote?

thanks

Sunking with buffered bypass, which I definitely like.

The color is Rustoleum Copper hammertone over grey self-etching primer on an unfinished 125b from Mammoth.

I decided to go with a solar theme rather than the traditional centaur.  I made the graphic in Illustrator from a spirograph type of shape I constructed.  I saved it as a style and then applied it to a squiggly line drawn with my wacom tablet.  Orangey-brown stroke and yellow fill.......instant sun graphic!

The fonts were free on the interwebz.  

Violet-colored silver-plated 24awg wiring with a teflon exterior.

I used TC1044spca, and 2 tle2072's, which are like super tl072's.  I think it's TI's answer to the AD712.
I used BAT41s and I like 'em but I installed sockets.  I might try some mosfets later.
Edit: I used 8n2 for C15.

This is quite a sophisticated sounding pedal.  I find it sounds absolutely at its best going into a slightly dirty amp, or as a clean/treble boost. Either way, it's fantastic.

Not the best pictures, but enjoy

Here is the octavia pedal in a second hand enclosure mjcyates gave me (thanks dude!).  I used the second place for a stomp switch to put a push button to turn on the octave.  I'll replace this with something a bit more sturdy later on.

I left the sides half sanded.  It had a beat up charcoal hammertone over some kind of gold color, so it looked kind of neat that way, I thought.  The top is painted Krylon Ivory Gloss and covered with polycrylic.  The design is just some photoshop silliness that I spent a little too much time on.  The real challenge was trying to match up the knob and switch labels with the holes that were already there.

The octave is cool, but the fuzz is the main attraction here, IMHO.  This is a great fuzz, and the pregain knob really makes it versatile.  You can dial this thing down so far that it sounds like a light overdrive.  I really, really like this pedal- and this is a great project- so thank you madbean.

I know there's really not much use in using carbon comp resistors, (and that often times they do more harm than good by introducing hiss) but I've never used them before and would like to try them out.

Let's say I want to build one of the awesome 5 knob Zygotes with nice germaniums, and I want to trick it out a little with some of these resistors.  There are only 7 resistors in the circuit, so my question is- where would I use carbon comps to do the most good, and where would I want to stick to film in order to keep from introducing too much noise?  Would I use film for the 2 1M values since they are of higher ohmage, and use cc's for the rest?

Thanks

I never hear folks talk about them.  In fact, the only 2 things I know about them is they are listed under film caps at mouser, and they are supposedly sensitive to heat.

So, any of you guys ever use these?

Oh and btw, now I've got Fake Plastic Trees from Radiohead running through my head.  "She lives with a broken man......." 

Is there a project here that fits that bill?

I've built the gruntbox into a triangle.  It is truly awesome, but I find myself playing a lot with the gain almost at zero a lot, and I always feel like I'm trying to keep it under control.  I wish there was a sweet lower gain unit I could put together where I wouldn't always be tapping the brakes.  The ones I'm thinking of trying are Colorsound Overdriver, Colorsound 1KF, or maybe a fuller 69?  Is it difficult to build a good 69 though?

Suggestions?

I've started fiddling around with this.  It all seems fairly straightforward, but I am stumped on how to split up a single IC and designate the 2 halves as IC1A and IC1B, each with 3 or 4 pins, while making eagle understand it is the same IC.  If I can't figure out how to do this it's going to get messy really fast.  And yes, I googled first. 

help?

Any reason not to use tl072 where it calls for a tl062?  I know the 062 is low power consumption so I was wondering if that is crucial for some reason.

Also, I only have 2 2n5088's left over from a previous build.  I have a bunch of bc549b's I could use in there- but they much lower hFe.  Would those work?

thanks

For those of you who have built or played these pedals, how do they compare.  And what is your personal favorite between the two?

Also Brian, when you told someone the other day they could use a footswitch for the boost, is that the same thing as the red channel in the original, or does the red channel include additional circuitry?  I'm curious about the difference between the original and your single channel version.

thanks

I finished this last night and i've kinda been messing with it on and off today.  I'm a little puzzled and maybe even a bit let down with this build.  I've watched some of the youtube vids and this pedal seems to scream and get pretty nasty.  I'm playing with humbuckers through a 50W 6L6 tube combo (bedroom volume) and it only gets semi-hairy when I crank the gain all the way, and it just doesn't sound very inspiring, honestly.  With all the great things I've heard about this effect, I'm thinking something must be off.

Does this sound right, Faultline owners?

BTW, I subbed 1MC for gain and 100KB for vol., but all other parts are spec'd to the sheet.  I'm using fairchild trannies from Mouser.

Brian is this available?  Thanks

Is it possible to mod the silverfox into an ltd v1/v2 or a special recipe?

If so, what are the necessary steps?

It looks like I could use a DPDT footswitch with this, correct?
Also, for C1- will .0022uF be fine for the 2n?

thank you

I have a 10kB pot here I'd like to use in a FatPants, so I need it to be 50kB.  I guess all I have to do is solder a 40K resistor somewhere to achieve that?

So my question is- what is the proper way to connect a resistor in series to a pot to increase its resistance?  Literally, where do I solder it?

tia

I have some wire gauge carbide bits here and a press.  I don't really have a scrap piece to drill test-holes in.  I was hoping to avoid messing up any of my good material in searching for the right bit size.
I have read that #68 is used for resistors and caps by a lot of folks, but I don't have that size as it turns out.

What is an acceptable size for this?
And do I need to use a bigger bit for any other components like diodes or ic's?