Messages

Very impressive, you guys are good!
changed IC3 (the original was per spec, so something was probably wrong with it) and the problem went away. nice pedal!
Thank you  guys for your help! you saved me from a very long and painful fishing expedition!
m

Thank you guys for the tip. I'll try to swaping the IC's this weekend (aaaaaaajjjjjjj too much work during the week, no time for anything). I'll let you know the outcome in case someone else has the same issue.
m

hi!
just finished a few projects today (rangemaster, snarkdoodle, krankosaurus & sunking). all of them sound great. but i have a problem with the sunking. although everything works fine and the sound is pretty good, there is a low but noticeable high pitch sound that it is pretty much constant, no matter the knobs position (although the frequency varies a little while fuzzing wiht hte knobs). reading a couple of articles I think it may be a 'leaky' capacitor.
However, I have no idea how to test the capacitors for leaks.
anyone had this problem before? any advise?
thank you guys!
m

Marcelo Cairo here.

I also build my own and tried different cables/connectors. after trying different brands, I agree with camsna. mogami cables, Neutrik connectors for guitar/amp connectors (try the silent plug for the guitar end: http://www.neutrik.com/fl/en/audio/204_826925229/Silent_Plug_productlist.aspx. i love it!) or Switchcraft#228  right angle flat connectors for the pedalboard. they take very little room allowing you to place your stompboxes right next to each other.
for cables, i use the mogami 2319 for the pedalboard (small diameter and very flexible) while I use mogami 2524 (larger diameter) for the guitar/amp cables.
hope this helps,
m

great job! very nice. perhaps you can share some details like type of sheet used, techniques, etc.?
m

one more interested....count me in please! great idea!
m

Hey Stevewire,
I do not know much about this but I am very interested. I'd been searching info about remote loops but without much luck. I'd like to build a remote loop box for my rig as well as a good amp switching system. I am currently using 4 heads and planning on adding 1 or 2 combos for getting different sounds. I have a custom switching box build by a well known guy (I'd rather keep his name out since he's great and tried really hard to solve my issue), but it does not work well. tons of out of phase problems, noise, etc. I was told I need to build a switching box with relays but I am on the same boat as you...i know nothing about this.
so... for everybody out there, there are at least 2 guys trying to lean more about this.

any help will be appreciated!
m

Happy B-day!!!! hope you have a good one!
m

Very very nice!

Hey CRBMoA, I appreciate you are trying to help. Thanks!
C3 has been removed since I wired the pedal as true-bypassed. In accordance wiht the  instructions for the version 3, you need to remove C3 along with R3, R4, R28, R29, R30.
would that be the problem? i can see removing the Rs for a true bypass pedal, but I am not sure about C3...

I can see why you thought the DC jack may be in contact with the pots, but this is not the case. to make it clear, yes i get a nice sound out of the pedal, but the tone pot does not have any effect whatsoever. the other issue is a very small delay (no sound at all) when I push the switch on.
I went thru the entire board a couple of times, checking the orientation of the elec caps, ICs, etc. also I measured each component and compare it with the bill of materials.
I also checked the wiring and seems fine (with the exception of a different way of wiring the LED and the switch). I tested each pot with the multitester and seems since too.

Madbean, I am not sure I follow you on your proposed test, sorry, but would you mind expanding a bit more on what to do?

DC power jack not being insulated and sitting between the tone and volume pots.

What is the reason this could be a problem? there is quite some room between the jack terminals/jack and the pots. are you thinking htey are almost in contact with each other?

Ok, I posted 2 pics of the pedal. Hope they show something that will lead me to the problem!

http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/z427/mdcairo/IMG_1398.jpg
http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/z427/mdcairo/IMG_1400.jpg

Healp Please!!!
m

Hey thanks for the reply and advise.
you are right on the pin labels. sorry. the left side are correct but 5 thru 8 are backwards. with respect to the drained battery, yes, but I only used for the readings. I tested the pedal with a power supply and fresh battery with same results.
what is your opinion regarding the tone pot not working? do you think it could also be a faulty capacitor? if so, i can try replacing caps one at the time.
I'll check the wiring again, in particular the tone pot ones.
re pics, the max size is 1000k, quite low for a good resolution pic. but thanks for the idea of posting a link. i'll upload some pics tomorrow and post a link.
thanks again and any further advise will be greatly appreciated!
m