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Agreed. My recent experiences have shown that to test MN parts its best to have a working circuit with known good parts.

I like the 2907's in pnp fuzz

Beautiful. New wallpaper on mi phone!

I should say it sounds much better at 15v vs 9v due to easier biasing. I was able to clear out all of the distortion minus a bit of edge on the sweep when depth and feedback are way up. I'm pretty sure that's normal though since I have the feedback trim set just under oscillation. At 9v the sweep always had a grind to it that could not be dialed out with the trims.

For the road rage I use 25v caps, LT1054IP and KA7815AETU all from Mouser.

Be sure to check out available brands as well at mouser. Koa speer precision resistors are in stock at those values for six cents each.

Sorry for the late reply. I had a road rage built up for my dirtbag which is now waiting for chips so it went right into the current lover during boxing. Fixed all my bias problems right up: nice and clean, nice and deep flanging and over the top feedback without oscillation with the trimmers resting in a much more neutral position. The circuit sounds far far better at 15v than 9v with 3007 chips imo.

Thanks guys! Those are indeed Mammoth knobs. I am a sucker for the right knobs on the right box and since I don't label or decorate my boxes in any way it's the knob that makes the aesthetics. I like the stealth look and none of my buddies can use my stuff without cheat sheets although sometimes I need the sheet as well lol.

10 bucks worth of tin knobs on a 40 dollar dirtbox, is that like a 2000 dollar sound system in an 88 hyundai?

Resistors: unless it is specified in the build docs or other folks build reports I don't discriminate between 1% and 5% especially on dirt. I do tend to use 1% where I can but it doesn't bother me to have a few browns mixed among the blues. Don't sweat it.

Caps: general rule of thumb is ceramics for pf values, film for nf values and electros for values greater than 1uf. Beyond that is a preference play really. I used to use greenies but on a tight board they can be too large and unruly so it's pretty much box film caps for me. Just be sure to study the schematic a bit and note which caps are polarized. Those spots get electros.

Well after the lowrider, current lover and dirtbag I could use a break like dirt on vero with like 40 solder joints total for an easy afternoon project. Here is a certain transparent overdrive looking sharp in PPP mercedes blue. I forgot how great this circuit was: it isn't the best OD in the world but it is the best stacking OD in the world. It's really at it's best running with more dirt in the chain. Thanks to Tayda for making this build come in under 40 bucks!

I have had a few errors of omission with my Tayda orders but they make it right pretty much immediately. Well as immediately as shipping components from Thailand can be. Be sure to unbag everything as I have had five or six values of resistors bagged up together. It helps to lay your DMM on a sample of everything on receipt just to make certain.

When I was building up my dirtbag the they sent me 1n8 instead of 3n9 caps which I was lucky to notice as I populated. No matter though, I had 3n9 on hand and I can likely use 1n8 in the future.

Yes check out that Mouser thread for tons of info. I like to order what I can from Tayda and use Mouser for the stuff Tayda doesn't have IE uncommon values for 1% resistors and box caps and certain IC's. Shipping is so cheap from each that it can sort of be counted as one order for personal accounting purposes. Plus since Tayda is cheapo on resistors and sell in 10pc lots you build up a set of common values without really trying. I like to tack around 5-10 bucks worth of trannies and toggles onto every Tayda order just for shiggles and to stock the bin. Sooner or later some new builder is going to get a fantastic parts lot from me when my pedal collection is done [lol] and I've nothing left to build [lol]

change there clock cap to 120pF
4 x 3205s

That's interesting. Was noise related to delay time settings on the 3205 builds? Could be a sneaky route since voltage doesn't seem to be much of a factor in sound. Thinking aloud, please disregard any stupidities.

When I started doing this the plan was dirt dirt dirt. Cheap, easy and can be moved when the collection grows too large. Fat chance, its all delay and modulation delay and modulation. One things for certain: my queue only grows.

I waited for a number of build reports before settling on the MN route as the V3205 chips noise issue didn't seem to be fully resolved for everyone. Sure I got hosed on the chips but with Paypal/Ebay all I have lost really is time and return shipping. I'll just go the 4x 3008 route since they can be had from reputable suppliers.

Were I certain the noise issues had been ironed out of the 3205 version I'd never have entertained the thought of an MN build.

I'm planning to build a 3205 version to satisfy my own curiosity. I was on the fence about building the dirtbag because I like the Echo Base sooo much but honestly the DMM smokes it for my purposes. The repeats are very punchy and present compared to the echo base and degrade in a much more pleasing way. I still quite like the Echo Base for it's easy peasy build and mods but once my Dirtbag gets sorted the EB is moving to the secondary board.

What I'd like to know is this: Are these differences due to voltage/headroom/filtering/companding or due to MN mojo? If the 3205 version has these same qualities on the repeats there really is no reason to build with MN parts since it would be the surrounding circuitry that is producing the real differences.

EDIT: this is given that the bugfixes for the 3205 dirtbag work well. The noise issues spooked me enough to go the MN route which is fraught with it's own issues..