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John D Cronise uses a Metal Muff from Electro Harmonics. Is there any info on making one of these? Is it a Big Muff version with special tweaks? If so how do I get that sound other then buying that pedal, that's not fun. I want to build it
Winter is back here in Buffalo Ny

So I built this in 11/2016 with 2N3907's straight from tag board. I mad my own strip board from left over copper clad board. Anyone ever built one, have one?  I don't remember why I used 2n3907's, specs call for 3906's or similar. I have stash of transistors and want to change them out. Why? Way too loud and fuzzy.
Question 1: any preferences?
Question 2: hfe range for Q1 and Q2
Question 3: lower hfe first or last

So I ordered JMK's test Rig as parts needed to build mostly. I had the tiny tester, worked great but when I moved a few years ago I've seen to misplaced the rig, lost in a box somewhere. I've been out of the hobby for some time, jumped to tube amp building but wanted to get back into pedals and needed something simple for tone generator and amp. Any one else build and have some advice? I have the pdf for build out but looking for do's and don't. Like what kind of probe works best(I have old meter probes that'll work, I was thinking of maybe one medium/large enclosure with say 4" speaker(?ohm) built into it. Something along those lines

It's been a long time since I've even looked at a pedal let alone build one. I've moved cross NYS to just outside of Buffalo a few years ago, I got to build a real lab of sorts in my finished basement where I pretty much hoped I'd get back into this hobby. I mainly built tube amps for guitar and home stereo amps but that industry took a hit with transformers and I stopped new projects. Power transformers are t a problem, it's the output transformers that got real expensive and very few choices in the states outside of Hammond and Edcor. I did pull all my pedal builds out and started playing again, fixed quite a few broken ones too. I may sell off a few redundant ones to help pay for new pedals. My best fix was an old Aion Effects OD-855, it was a first run with error on board(easy fix). OMG the OD 855 is a incredibly powerful pedal, bye bye TS 808
Anyway I'm glad this sites still around so I can redive back in
PS-Are there any sources still for a Darkside?

Im finishing up the Aion Cumulus OD and it calls for a 1N60, I thought I had 1N34a"s laying around but there hiding one me. Whats readily available these days

So I have a pcb coming called the Wizard of Doom. It's a sabbra cadabra on juice. It calls for a BC184(Q1) MPF4393(Q2-6) low gain npn germanium(Q7) Im asking for subs suggestions. BOM says(2N3904,2N5088) I have BC549c which looked pretty close. For Q2-6 BOM says(j201,2n5457's) Q7 I gotta did around my stash. I have a AC187 with 240 hfe

I dont understanding LDR terminology at all, only know they do what they do Now I just finished the Krypton Phaser(MU-TRON ii) I used the Tayda's https://www.digchip.com/datasheets/parts/datasheet/518/KE10720S-pdf.php Someone is building this and has informed me they are going to try both a set of  smallbears 5mm (8002)8 - 24K/500K and (9200)   10 - 50K/5 Meg. Before I button this up Id like some input, thank you

Has anyone tried, owned or have experience with the Mexican 1960's RI Tele? I'm putting together a parts Telecaster and was thinking of using a loaded pickguard plus electronics from a MIM. This is what I'm working on, unshaded first then the two with the picguards with sanded and polished. Not sure if I want to go 3 ply tortoise shell or minty collared white. Those two are from strats

Ok, here's another one I'm trying to troubleshoot. I have only clean sound coming through wether Ingaged or not. Using a sound probe I can trace reverb sound all the way to lug on level(reverb) pot where arrow is. If I go from lug 2 to base of transistor I only get clean sound. Pots seem to be working as well when turned

This is probably the third or forth build of mine from about ten years ago. It was a challenge for me back then to build and set. It must have fell at one point cause I have had to change the dpdt switch and a have a loose connection or two so I'll need to reflow solder. It works but I have to reset all the trim pots. This was a bitch as you can see all the trims but it is a beautiful sounding Analog Delay. BYOC did this one right, it's still available and probably one of their originals when they started offering full kits.

Just as the description says, I'm redoing my mood ring on a new pcb and I'd like to verify it wokrks still. I did so many mods on the original one that eventually the tabs broke off. Yes it did work quite well but the bird became a cluster duck from changing so many things

So I just got back from a well needed Vacation with my family except my eldest daughter. She starts college in fall and couldn't get of work and also needs the money. We went to a family dude ranch in Highland Falls NY and had a blast, I was able to decompress, do fun things with my kids,not say no to everything and I also took my 11 year old daughters bff on the trip so she'd have a pal. My F*CK up is I paid the entire trip off with the wrong bank account 😵 And now I'm - flat broke. Good thing is i get paid Thursday but I'm gonna have to grab some extra OT when I get back😞

Guys, I was given a nice Epi Hummingbird minus some parts. NECK is still a little twisted but getting better since I started working on it. I bought used correct tuners, a bone nut and saddle which are both compensated. I strung it up and adjusted the truss and within one day it's much better. The bridge pins are plastic crappy ones that come with guitar and I'm thinking either brass or bone? Any Thought thoughts, I also have to adjust the nut saddle string height 

 :'(So I have a issue with the moodring build, didn't work. I already have my test rig hooked up, tone generator going and audio probes at hand. I have signal at input-c1-R2 then other side of R2 I get no signal. R2 checkouts fine on meter in the circuit?. R3 shows dead short in the circuit but tests fine when pulled. If using probe I get normal signal at IC1 pin 6 and the effect sounds at IC4 pin 7. I know I gotta have an issue somewhere at the beginning of this circuit build. Venting here, I'd rather rebuild from beginning but then you don't learn. I had to stay behind on a family road trip to Myrtle Beach due to illness as well

I'm on a roll and want to finish the mood ring, can I use a L78M05 SCV instead of the LM7805?

What a great simple Phaser build. I figured out the method 2 led illumination pulse, (LS) has to go to where -leg of cap and gate leg meet there's is no trace on pcb thats on PDF print out. I used gimp, grabbed a space girl image and made my first ever decal. I used glossy photo paper and let dry overnight. Stuck it on with permanent glue stick and shot a few coats of clear. I let it dry overnight again and very carefully sanded with 400 paper. Hit a few more coats and it done

Looking at the schematic of the smoother pulsing led the LS pad ties into Gate(3)& negative side of 1uf cap. On the printable pcb the LS pad doesn't tie into anywhere. I'm I looking at this wrong? Should I just bring a trace from LS pad to the point where C1 negative and G(3) meet

I want to add the not so square pulsing led to NomNom, in case i don't have a j112 can I use say a j201 or similar. So while following this schematic onto perf I am lost as to where the hell LS is supposed to wire up to. On the schem it goes to middle leg gate but on printout pcb it doesn't

I'm going for broke on this my CBG did Well before t I'm gonna try and go for a gorgeous tele

I'd like to add a depth pot and maybe a wet/dry pot. I have a few different schem's out like phase royal, tourbillon and my old BYOC(no schem). Can it be done without crazy hacking