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I'm set on taking the plunge and "upgrading" my capacitor stash to all Panasonic ECQ-V.  I have selected straight leads (no kink) and all the values from 10n-1uF.  Got a pretty nice cart loaded on Mouser and about to pull the trigger.

Nothing wrong with my current stash which is a mixture of Tayda, Wima, Epcos, and Kemet.  The Panasonics are very nice and sexy and perhaps the best one can use in pedals.

It seems that ECQ-V does not go down below 10n. 

I'm just wondering for those who build with ECQ-V...What do you use for values of 1n to 10n?  Epcos or Wima box?  Any tips you can share about the ECQ-V caps would be appreciated!  Thanks
-Ben

Just curious if anyone has built the Rebote 3 @ tonepad yet?  Looks interesting.  Wonder how it sounds?

After all the "pay per view" stuff over there - it seems that the "lock" has been taken off the schematic now FWIW.   

Been traveling a lot for work lately. I find myself here in Salt Lake City, UT with a brand new laptop and the power supply managed to break the tip off.  I have a bunch of important presentations tomorrow and of course the adapter is "special" and nobody has it in stock. What's a DIY guy to do?   Pop by radio shack and pick up the required equipment to fix it of course!  A bit of macgyver action, some solder, some stranded wire, and it's charging!  So happy as the laptop is vital to my trip here.

Here's a second DemiCOMP, similar to the purple one I posted a few days ago, made with a rullywow.com Demeter Compulator layout.  I powdercoated the box Dormant Sparkle Blue, laser engraved, and used a "lacquer stik" to fill in select areas.  I'll give a full review on the "lacquer stik" soon.  A big shout out goes to Sean over at SRC Effects (www.srceffects.com) for making me the Russian Sovtek BMP style knobs.  They are clear with blue swirled around in them and I think are a good fit for the box.  The knobs totally blew me away with their feel and quality and I would recommend his knobs for any project - you won't be sorry.  Hard to believe he makes these himself really.  Totally smooth, no visible mold lines and feel solid as hell.

Switching provided by the six-FO switcher which is taking care of LED duties and true bypass switching via a momentary soft-touch stomp.  I love the way this compressor sounds, once it's on...you really don't want to turn it off.  Nice and clean, sparkling, and even "spanky" sounding.  Coupled with a chorus and I'm in 80's heaven.

Had this done for a while, figured I would post some pics.  He did a great job on the layout and the Muu drive sounds good! My inner 4-year old had to give it a clever name hence...the "Cow Teat."    Actually it's "udderly fantastic" /punmodeoff. 

There is a lot of drive and gristle in there, copping some serious "Money for Nothing" tones as well as some low-medium raunch.  A standard build includes rullywow 3PDT board, 3mm red led, neutrik jacks, and BLMS DC jack with plastic nut.  Powdercoated in dormant sparkle blue with a white self-adhesive inkjet decal and what is now known as the "Juan and Cleggy treatment".

EDIT:  For those with a sharp eye...yes, the DC jack is not connected (I know).  I was doing some tweaks to the pot height and forgot to hook them back up.  derp!

Here is a Timmy in a dormant purple powdercoated enclosure with a laser etched "Nintendo" theme.  Neutrik jacks, BLMS DC jack, and purple flat top UV LED.  A couple of carbon comps in there, strategically placed (meaning I had those values on hand that fit this build).    This build features one of my latest PCB projects, the "Six-Fo" switcher.  The 'six-fo' makes it super easy to add intelligent switching to any pedal project, using low-cost and off-the-shelf components.  Assembly is also quick in less than 5 minutes and includes preprogramed uC. 













Timmy sounds, well...like a Timmy.  Great circuit Paul C. designed and very versatile - has minimal coloring of your tone.  One of my favorites.  It sounds just like my real Timmy, maybe even a bit better.  Build one and then buy a real one...err...or the other way around. 

The 'six-fo' switcher is a result of a lot of blood, sweat, and unsigned long variables.  It will be available at rullywow.com in the next day or so.  I will post a link below to a separate thread regarding the complete details.  It is a microcontroller relay PCB which mounts right on a momentary stomp and "remembers" if it was on/off (memory feature can be disabled).  With a plain vanilla L78L05 it draws less than 3mA in idle (mostly quiescent current from the reg - circuit draws under 1mA) and has a new, very advanced debouncing algorithm - meaning you can use it with straight-up any momentary switch (works excellent with Tayda and BLMS $2.00 switches).  The ratings of the components are in the neighborhood of way over 100,000 stomps...and it does it all without any mechanical clicking.  I like the ease which it allows you to mount the PCB while taking care of your switching/wiring/powering duties - all in style! 

Finally got around to boxing this one up.  Great sounding pedal.  Wish I could coax a little more "lushness" out of it...maybe change the LDRs down the line or try 18V adapter...but it works great.  Copious amounts of ribbon cable, 1uF caps, and transistors are essential to this build.    

Shooting for a 1960's psychedelic poster look with a little homage to Jimi at the top.  Powdercoated myself in Neon green with a self-adhesive inkjet white decal on top.  A little envirotex, the biggest ass knob I have ever used, and call it a day.

This is a repost of my entry for the Spring contest, however I figured I would post it in the build reports.  This pedal actually came in really handy at a trade show last weekend where I was exhibiting...it's really handy to demonstrate to someone how a pedal's guts look without having to take the cover off.  Even better when it makes sounds and lights up and they can actually play it!

Crystal Muff - perhaps the most 'transparent' muff of all time 
Circuit: Op Amp Muff (using "Muff Opportunity" PCB from www.rullywow.com)

This is a classic "in your face" muff circuit based on the EH Op-Amp muffs circa 1978.  The enclosure is transparent but the sound is thick and aggressive.  Really nails Smashing Pumpkins, Bush, and a lot of other 90's bands' hard-hitting fuzz tones.  Built with no mods, although I have been swapping out the opamps for different flavors because that's how I get down.

For the enclosure, I had an idea to do something original and different, and that was to roll my own enclosure using 1/8" acrylic.  Why?  Why not?

I used the dimensions of a 1590B from the spec sheet and put those numbers as well as the acrylic specs into this awesome Box Generator site (http://boxmaker.rahulbotics.com/).  If you have access to a laser engraver or CNC, you gotta try this out!  I took the PDF generated from the site and used CorelDRAW to draw the artwork and prep for vector cutting/raster engraving.  Holes are aligned perfectly since I didn't have to drill any.  The artwork was engraved from the inside of the box because it "pops" just like on acrylic awards/trophies.   A 30w Epilog laser cutter was used to cut each panel and all the holes/artwork to exacting dimensions.  Had a couple of revisions due to the whole 3mm vs actual 1/8" acrylic debate but it came together great.  The box fits together so tightly that glue is not needed, and the enclosure can easily be assembled by hand like Lego or a jigsaw puzzle.  You can see the interlocking "fingers" on the sides.  A flat-top UV-purple LED completes the enclosure  It is very sturdy, no worries about stomping on it, however it is prone to scratching etc because it is just acrylic after all.













Here is the gut shot...hope you don't mind that I left the bottom cover on


Video:
Signal chain = my lab's 'beater' Kramer Pacer -> Crystal Muff -> POS Princeton SS 10w practice amp

Here is a DemiCOMP compressor built with my "Demented Compressor" PCB - inspired by the Demeter Compulator. Really digging the sound of this circuit.  It makes clean passages just "pop" with a little extra something when dialed in.  I threw an old Boss chorus after it and was reliving some 1980's hair metal ballads for like an hour.

I powdercoated the enclosure with Dormant Purple Sparkle and laser engraved the top.  A white LED, Neutrik Jacks, and RW 3PDT breakout board completes the build.  A pretty easy build, the hardest part is sourcing the VTL5C10 as this optocoupler is required (a regular LDR and LED won't cut it...I tried!)  I think this may be staying on one of my boards for a while!  Planning on getting a video demo uploaded in the next day or so.

Just saw this and reminded me of a certain MB board...

Haven't etched in a while but did some of the largest boards ever this weekend...


I've had good luck with eBay yellow toner transfer paper, my modified laminator, Muriatic Acid and Hydrogen Peroxide on top of my toaster oven (for extra warmth)....came out pretty good.

Found this advertisement featuring "Germanium Man" in a 1984 data book on Transistors and scanned it into PDF.  Thought you may enjoy.   

Their argument for Ge having an advantage over Si was entertaining as well.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/73135424/madbean%20meme/Germanium%20Man.pdf

Just got in a phase 100 which someone tried to wire up an external "jack". Going to see if I can get a tune out of  this trombone

Just curious if any of you use/used to use/swear by/dislike "Low Current LEDs?"  Mostly for LED indicators in pedals.  Also wondering if they may "sound" different to your ears when used in a clipping circuit?  The ones I came across here have a fV of about 1.9v.

These are about 0.20c a pop at Mouser and draw 2mA.  2mcd brightness (typ).
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay/TLLR4401/?qs=%2fha2pyFaduhWRCNY2UVIVjQcNqusW51tP1yt1W7WiKc%3d

The bulk of vanilla LEDs I have come across in the past consume somewhere around 20mA.  My focus of the week is reducing power consumption with various methods and just stumbled across these.  It's not a huge deal when running off an adapter but I have been working on reducing power usage for battery powered circuits.  These may have their place...

I am looking to start doing a few layouts with PCB mount jacks.  There are two basic types:  The type that has the threads protrude through the enclosure and the type which use ferrule nuts which secure to the "flush" mount jacks. 

In your experiences, what do you prefer and what are the best (Neutrik?  Switchcraft?  Tayda (jk) )   

When I first started, I would often use pliers to tighten pot nuts, 3pdt nuts, switch nuts, etc...(I'm sure we have all been there at some point).  Of course, this is prone to marring your finish, slipping off the nut, and leaving scratch marks.

I then started to use my tools from the garage but it was always a pain sharing between the two and keeping track of where my sockets and ratchet were..

I contemplated getting a deep well nutdriver set but they are usually pricey, plus I don't need a whole set..just 4 common sizes.  Combination wrenches would work too, but are not as fast as a screwdriver handle.

A few months ago, I found the perfect affordable solution.  I went to my local cheap Chinese tool store (Harbor Freight Tools) and got a color coded deep well socket set (mm) like this (about $10USD):


Paired with a 1/4" screwdriver-handled driver like this (about $5usd) ...they make a beautiful team.  Mine is similar (not telescoping) but you get the idea.


I keep 4 of these color coded sockets and the handle close by on my bench (which fit 16mm pots, 1/4" jacks, 3PDT, and toggles) and its super easy to remove/tighten any pedal hardware.  The color coded sockets are sweet because its easy to know that green=pots and so forth.  I wish I did this a couple years ago but I figured I would share with you, in case you don't have a dedicated set. 

I'm curious for those who already have a dedicated set of tools, are you using the same?  What is your tool of choice?

Did a small run of Opamp Muffs. 













My first time using a new faceplate technique.  It's a product called "LaserMAX" by Rowmark which is a two layer acrylic product.  I tried a few different colors and this one really stood out to me.  It looks like a brushed metal finish that has "grain".  It took a few tries to dial in the correct laser engraver power settings, but I am really satisfied with the result.  The best part is that it's repeatable      I powdercoated the boxes myself in matte black.   I am very pleased with the look and sound of the finished effect and my "Muff OPportunity" PCB.   I will swap out the nylon stomp washers for metal ones and then off they go!  Really nails that "Siamese Dream" sound.  Can't stop playing Pumpkins riffs when this is on.   

Just got this email.  Looks like Sunny from iTead is departing iTead and opening his own fab service.  The prices seem to be favorable as well.

He writes:
I am sunny .Thanks for repeat customer's support to my business and glad to share my good news with new customer . I have built my own company ,MIER .Our shopping mall will come to embrace everyone after our Chinese traditional Spring Festival .



This chart is for larger pcbs, 5pcs, green, 2layer, hasl.


"Purchase with us now you will be a VIP member of MIER and get good price at our shopping mall at max time . Contact us if you have any suggestion ,you useful advice will be appreciated . "

Sunny's new email:
mier_itead@sina.com

Enclosure is 1590NS first powdercoated chrome, then transparent green.  Took a hint from one of Pickdroppers' latest and etched with a laser engraver and then I filled in the voids with white acrylic paint and a cottton tipped swab.  Used shiny Envirotex (I love this stuff!) over the top only for protection of the paint.  I saw some tips on the web regarding this and I think next time, I will use a light masking material over the enclosure before laser etching (etch right through the mask).  This way, it will protect the enclosure from soot and smoke plus add a quick mask for the acrylic paint.  It was pretty time consuming filling all the voids and then rubbing off the excess.  Very pleased however because I have never been able to do a white lettering scheme myself before so this is exciting.

This is one great circuit, very versatile due to the range knob.  Even makes my little SS test amp sound pretty good!  Can be like a standard treble boost Rangemaster or a full range boost.  Plenty of volume on tap and the "Heat" knob adds extra fatness to the tone if desired.  Have plenty of extra boards if interested.

Demo Video:

Queen of Bone - "QoB"
Based upon a kingly dual "B00tique" Bluesbreaker with 18v/9v option.












My first try with envirotex.  This stuff is great!  I sealed the face plate using it and it was very nice to work with.  I powdercoated the 1590BB with chrome then translucent red.  I like to use a stepless reamer to clean out the holes  from the envirotex (like $3.00 at Harbor Freight for US diyers).

I used 1S1588 Diodes for channel 1 (thanks Treeslayer!) and some stock 1n4148 for channel two.  I like the delicate breakup of the 1S1588, and they do a very nice medium gain crunch or "in-between" sound.  The trimmers on the 3PDT breakout boards are for LED brightness, helps to dial in the balance easily especially with the blue.  If I get some more "mojo" diodes, I will probably swap out the vanilla 1n4148 for more sounds down the road. 

Dip switches internally add more diodes to the circuit.  I prefer the first channel with of a more clean sound and channel two a bit dirtier but have been leaving the bottom off to flip the switches as I am having fun experimenting.  Each channel sounds great by themselves, and when stacked there is a nice full and fat tone.  The two trimpots on the main PCB are presence controls.

Running at 18v through the internal charge pump really adds more headroom and sparkle.  Pedal is dead quiet unless the gain is up around 90% or higher.  Very versatile, really does a great job of sounds just south of metal territory. 

Demo Video below.  Signal chain is Kramer Pacer -> QoB -> Fender Blues Deluxe.  Recorded with some of my favorite mics: a Sennheiser MD409 and Sennheiser MD421(mk1), into a Presonus Audiobox running Reaper.  No effects except spring reverb from the amp and some microphonic tubes I should swap soon  .