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Built this for a friend...it is a Star Wars Empire Strikes Back meets Owl Theme...  Sounds great!   
Disclaimer: (this is not built or endorsed by Sennheiser)

Wow man! I'm really loving your finished product! Looks perfect.

So, are u using water-slide decals, then powder-coating with clear and finally baking it?

I would love to improve the way I'm working with water-slides and the ol' clear spray paint. Lately I haven't been 100% satisfied =\


-Kaleb

Have you tried clear coating with EnviroTex yet?  Lots of the folks on the BYOC forum have been using it and it seems to be giving really great results, especially over decals as it is so thick it hides all of the edges/screwups.  I am going to try two with EnviroTex this weekend, will post back to let you know how it goes.

That sounds great!  Please let us know how it goes with that EnviroTex.  If it goes on over powdercoat that may be the ticket.  For now, I am going to "modify" my toaster oven by putting the top grill in the top slot with alum foil on both sides to deflect the direct heat from the element above.  I tend to burn the decals especially on a white background pedal sometimes (even at 350).

Nice build! 

There is a 6MP on eBay right now for $65 shipped (includes a new toner cart)...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-Laserjet-6MP-Laser-Printer-22K-Pages-New-Toner-/220841474524?pt=COMP_Printers&hash=item336b2d79dc

It will print just fine, but only on InkJet Waterslide paper - there is a difference between the inkjet and the laser stuff.  I am unsure if the ink will withstand up to 400F (which you need if you are going to bake powdercoat)... 

Thanks guys!  I am really itching to do a full color one here on the color work laser but also have reservations about boning the work printer...  My 'free' LaserJet 6MP (circa early 1990's) at home has been great and never had an issue (I leave it on all the time). 

If you can get one of these older printers for cheap like my 6MP (Craigslist etc) I highly recommend it.  Even if it only has a Parallel port you can get an adapter to convert it to either USB or ethernet (best solution as it plugs right into your router and you can print over WiFi).  Toner lasts forEVER too...just add paper and print away.

+1 on ALL the coments....really beautiful build. I have had a hard time using Gimp and Inkscape. Did you learn Inkscape by just fooling around with it or do you have a resource?

Thanks!  I learned by fooling around as well as internet searching some tutorials.  The absolute greatest thing about Inkscape (besides layers) is the "Align and Distribute" function.  You can easily make all your knobs, drill holes, etc all line up perfectly with this function.  If you do it right, punch your holes with a center punch and drill carefully you will have near perfect alignment with little surprises.  Make sure you grab the Effects Pedal Builder Vector Pack (PDF) which contains all the knobs, LEDs, jacks, enclosures, which you can simply move into inkscape at 100% accurate sizing link:
http://www.ontheroadeffects.com/vectorpack/

I'm no expert but maybe I can make a quick tutorial on how to use Inkscape for Pedal Builders.

Layers are great.  You mock up your whole pedal and then can turn things off like knobs, pcbs..etc when it is time to print the actual decal.  Lately, I have been trying to do more curved text and even radius markers around the knobs.

Nice build!

Thanks everybody!  It is really hard to capture the extra fantasitc "sparkle" that the dormant colors put off but you get the idea.

As far as powder coating, I owe it to the OP in the powder coating tutorial on this website for getting me into it. Check out this tutorial here if you haven't already:
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=1785.0

Decal is fairly straightfoward.  Just draw it up (Inkscape is great btw and free), print on laser decal paper, and slide it on.  Let completely dry (this is key so any trapped moisture doesn't cause bubbles) and then shoot a light mist of clear over it.  Once that is melted (flowed out) I take it out and shoot another slightly heavier mist of clear on it which melts right into it.  It is self leveling for the most part.  If you have any questions, I would be glad to share my experiences with the stuff - I have had the kit for about 2 weeks and after a few blunders and stripping (you will make mistakes when first starting) - I feel I have a good grasp on it.

Trying to squeeze all of it in there with a 9V battery was a b$*&%- I am starting to lean towards not including 9V in my pedals unless absolutely needed.  Took my time, etching was clean, powdercoat nicey.  As you see by the pics, I only had a large 1uF film cap on hand so I ended up having to remote it to make everything happy.  After some minor board placement and wire tweaking it is solid now!

I agree, a little dab of hot glue by the board and next to large caps etc is a nice finishing touch and makes the final product that much more resistant to getting thrown around.

Thanks Josh!

I built a few of these recently and the latest ones I put a big honkin' 1uF film guy in there.  Hopefully it will make it sound even better than the electro!

Just curious how you made out with these optos?  Do you think they would work in the Tremulus Lune circuit?

-B

Hello,

I understand that one can use a electrolytic cap for C2 on the Glitterratti however I am just curious:

1.  Are there any advantages for using a film cap there (is this in the audio path?)
2.  Why was a film specified here in the layout?
3.  Does the original use a film or electrolytic?
4.  If using a electrolytic, which side is positive (on the home etch single side layout?)

Thanks in advance for my redundant questions.

Too large holes put extra stress on what little pad traces are left leading to poor connection and eventually breakage when stuffing in the box.  Just gotta use the correct size holes and life is good.