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I appreciate the help guys however I found it.  In the hopes that someone else may search someday and have a similar issue - it was loose pot wires where they meet the board.  I think used too big a drill bit on this particular PCB while I was waiting for replacements.  I bet it was sympathetic noise induced by the vibrations of my "rocking before boxing".

Needless to say - now I am extra careful, i use 0.8 mm (as I do for everything) and secure the 22AWG Teflon Silver with a few dabs of hot glue for extra security.  If the wire doesn't go into the pcb, I take it by hand and use the bit to carefully enlarge the hole just so the wire is a snug fit.

Thanks for the props!

I found the parts changes on this forum:

BASS Cupcake:
Preheat oven to 350F
Grease and flour cupcake pans

1. Change C6 to 1uF
2. Change C7 to 10uF
3. Change R8 to 200k

After they cool, frost and give to friends and enjoy!

Glad to share    

I couldn't see purchasing the regular kit ($99.99) or the deluxe kit.  I used the extra cash to put towards 12 empty powder canisters for the gun (about $30)...this was an EXCELLENT suggestion from the OP who did the powdercoating tutorial on this site.   Also don't forget the high temp masking and a roll of the hanging wire...along with rubber gloves, paper towels, and acetone.  Gotta keep your fingerprints off it.  Also remember to let the decal dry FULLY before clear coating.  Additionally, I found I get much better results with the clear if I do it at 350F instead of 375F...the decal tends to turn brown at higher temps...350F works great.

Once you do your first powdercoat enclosure you will be like, "why did I ever mess around with rattle cans???!?".  Trickiest part is getting the part into the oven without knocking it into something.  If you do, you can just take it out and give it a quick blast and put back in.  I reuse a set of 4 screws to keep powder out of the holes and give it "legs" to stand up on the mini cookie sheet that comes with the toaster oven.  Every one I do is better than the last.

Finally, tonight I am going to mod the Eastwood gun so the hand operated plunger is actually a footswitch....I have just the housing as well as some momentary heavy duty stomps.  I will be sure to post some pics of the final beast.  It is a PITA to hold the part with one hand, and then have to use the other hand to push the plunger AND spray....Good luck!

Oh...PS..  My favorites are the Columbia Dormant colors currently.  The dormant copper, dormant red, dormant blue, and dormant Granny Smith green all rock..however I have an order of the day-glo coming tomorrow.  I didn't have much luck yet with the translucent colors but will try again soon....

I purchased my powder coating gun for about $69.99 (Eastwood basic kit on eBay).  The powders are pretty cheap ($3.99 for 2oz from www.columbiacoatings.com) which will do about 4-5 pedals.  Add a air compressor (even a very low flow one or a tank) and throw in a toaster oven (free to $20) and you are in.  There is a great tutorial on this forum about powdercoating and inspired me to get into it myself. 

Thanks for the kind words!  The decal is a waterslide laser under clear powder coat.  I got the HP Laserjet6MP (1994 model) for free from a friend and it has been awesome for everything!  The printer is so old it has a parallel port but I got a parallel to ethernet adapter and it sits on my network at home so I can just print over WiFi...  I want to try some color laser decals but have reservations about jacking up the work color laser...

I also can't say enough good things about powdercoating.  I love my simple setup and will never ever use a rattle can on a pedal again.  Simply powder the pedal with base color, slide decal into place, let dry completely then clear powder coat.  After it comes out of the oven and is cool to the touch you can start putting your pcb and jacks in it.  Layout your pedal in inkscape first and you have a drilling template and decal all in one.  Simply awesome.

To be honest - I am pretty sure that is just overspray from some of the powder coating process and should just wipe off...  Sharp eye!

I love the finish, totally relic'd and distressed!  Groovy!

Nothing like bass cupcakes!  Or salmon cupcakes well...err.. MadBean Bass Cupcakes that is.  Here are two of my latest for my bass player friends, one in white and the other in dormant copper powdercoat.  Same decal layout on both.  Sounds great however I am curious to see what they think.  Happy with the the wiring job and powder coat (way easier than a 4 pot monster in a 1590b.

Basic Cupcake with the 3 parts changes to tailor it more towards Bass.  Orange 3mm led.

Just finished the "StarDrive".  I have a friend who is a vet and (much to his wife's dismay) likes to play StarCraft so I whipped up a Glitteratti with a StarCraft type of theme.  Dormant red powdercoat, laser decal, blue LED.  Home etched PCB.  This pedal sounds rippin!  One of my favorite circuits here at the MadBean lab.  I'm going to build at least 4 more.  

Hello,

(1) Project Name: Glitterrattii
(2) General description of the problem:  When sustaining a note, there is this weird breaking up (speaker blown) kind of decay sound.  It is most prominent when playing a soft passage or when you turn your volume down on guitar and let note ring out.  Other than this, the overdrive sounds great.  Has a LOT of volume and gain on tap
(3) Steps that you have taken to try to resolve the issue:  Checked values, wondering if a faulty/mismatched transistor or IC may be causing this?
(4) List any substitutions you used for parts/values:  (none)

Thanks in advance.

Thanks Raulduke,
I think the decal looks better in the flesh with this one, its really glossy and the dragons on the front are a bit easier to see. Really happy with the appearance actually, (still not sure about the knobs though).

Haven't used the effect much as yet, but i did notice the odd behaviour of the voice dial.  Sort of acts like a 2nd drive knob?  on zero i get pretty well no drive.  I think thats how its meant to work from what i've read and heard.  If anyone has one and thats not the case, please let me know if i stuffed it (thanks )
Paul

Hey Paul,

I just built a couple Serendipitys and the Voice knob really does tweak where the mids are IMO at least on mine it doesn't operate like a volume knob.  This is a strange overdrive as the GAIN and the Volume work together to make different tones.  I like the Zendrive circuit however the Glitteratti (BB Preamp) just smokes it out of the water in my opinion.

All good stuff especially the spreadsheet - at the same time I convert to uF sometimes for the caps as it is easier to order from Mouser.  If you don't have Excel, you can use Google Docs for free (spreadsheet) which works basically the same and can be accessed from any computer.   After in the spreadsheet just color code the cells as you are going through it something like (Green = I have on hand.  Orange = I am ordering and it is in the cart, Blue = I am sourcing from another supplier etc.). 

I recommend ordering an assortment of diodes, opamps, LED+holders, and transistors just to have on hand.  Sometimes you see a project (get bitten by the bug) and would like to jump into it but are missing a simple component.  The Hacker's Guide for the Beavis Board is a great reference of which components to get to have on hand and their associated part numbers: http://www.beavisaudio.com/bboard/docs/HackersGuideToTheBeavisBoard.pdf.  Depending on your budget, I would get 5-25+ each from Mouser as a good start. 

I would also recommend ordering the poly film cap assortment, resistor assortment, as well as a ceramic cap assortment on eBay as well.  They are about $14 -$20 and you will have a large stock of many common values at a great price.  Only drawback is the 2 week shipping time.  Most ship from Hong Kong etc.  Hit up Mouser for 100+ qty each of electrolytic in 1uF, 10uF, 4.7 uF, 47uF, 100uF etc.  This should round out your parts stash for a good while.

Whenever I need a strange value component, I order it plus maybe some extra (10 - 100 depending on cost) so I have it on hand.  Have fun!

Oh lastly - you will want to get a dremel (if you don't have one), a dremel drill press attachment, and some carbide PCB drill bits (.8mm and 1mm are good sizes).  This makes PCB fabbing easy.

Tip:  I just scored the basic gun off of eBay (from Eastwood themselves) for only $69.99 (instead of $99.00).  After reading the powdercoating tutorial on this site I was inspired.  Instead of buying the deluxe kit - I figured I could get more bang for the buck by getting it separately:

*Basic Gun (eBay) = $69.99
*12 extra jars from Eastwood that fit in the gun = $30.00 so I don't have to clean hopper each time I need to change colors
*A whole bunch of powder including 1lb of clear, and dormant sampler kit from columbia coatings - about $50-$60

Can't wait to try it - will def post some pics next week!

Potential Tube Screamer Names:

Subway Yeller (Tube in London is a Subway...)
Rusty Keyway
Green Standby

I purchased the Memory Boy w/ Tap Tempo which I love but I'm wishin I got the one you got.

Yeah.  I don't mean to be a d-bag but I have both the Deluxe Memory Boy with TT and the DMMwTT and the "man" just slays the boy all day.  The sound of the Man is just much more transparent than the boy.  When you kick the boy on it really warms up the fundamental tone in a strange way.  The modulation is also pretty much useless on the DMBwTT as well.  I have an original deluxe memory man (with hard wired cord) and the DMMwTT comes very close to the sound plus the added benefit of having true bypass.  I can keep the original DMM in its safe wooden box for special recording occasions or similar.