Messages

Thanks for sharing.

Dave

Here you go.

http://www.diyguitarpedals.com.au/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=286

And surface mount jfets.

http://www.diyguitarpedals.com.au/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6&products_id=375

Dave

Hi,

It should be on this page.

http://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/ARCHIVE/OD_Dist_Boost/

Click on Sunking.zip

Dave

Awesome!

Thanks Brian.

Dave

It works fine for me. It happens with Smallbear every once in a while though. Some days I can't get on the site at all for a few hours, then it works ok.

Dave

+1  brucer. Had a JB bridge and loved the pickup. Still 70s kinda thing there..

I have a JB in the bridge of one of my SG's and in the bridge in my Flying V. Great pickup. He said he was into vintage PAF though, so that's why I didn't recommend a JB.

Dave

I would try a Pearly Gates in its place. I think you'll like it.

Dave

Pearly Gates in the bridge of a Les Paul sounds great.

What is it about the 57 Classic Plus that you don't like? I thought the 57 Classic and Plus are vintage PAF types with the Classic being a little hotter.

Dave

I cut a small piece of wood the same thickness as a 9V battery from a paint mixing stick. It flexes the clip so that when the JB hardens, the clip doesn't have to flex open when you put the battery in.

Dave

Hoping it holds Leevibe.  I'll report back tomorrow once it's had a chance to cure 100%.  I meant to scratch up the bottom of the clip.  That may make a difference.


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I've used JB Weld many times for holding a battery clip. I found that scratching the bottom of the clip and the spot in the enclosure where the clip will go makes a big difference.

I sand the bottom of theclip with very coarse sand paper. The coarsest I can find. The more scratches the better. I rough up the spot in the enclosure with a tool called a scratch awl. The nastier it looks the better. I'll include a pic of a scratch awl. Then I clean both surfaces with alcohol. I put a small piece of wood in the clip to simulate a battery because the clip flexes open when the battery is in it.

Before I started doing it this way, about one in three clips would fall out. Since I've been doing it this way, I have not had one fall out.

Also, I've used both the regular JB Weld and the JB Weld quick. I have not had a problem with either one.

Dave

Great sounding fuzz.

Dave

I have 2 Pedal Power 2 + Supplies. One on my main gig board and on my practice/rehearsal board. I have owned them both for about 4 years with no issues.

Dave

The Boss OC2 i had when i was 16 years old... ...should have never sell that.

My OC-2 is the only pedal that I still have from the "old days" before I started building pedals. I still love it and I still use it occasionally.

Dave

I've sold some pedals that I regret, even though I have not bought them again. These were all sold before I started building pedals in 2006. I couldn't justify paying the high price for one of these now.

Boss DM-2
Vintage EH Deluxe Memory Man
Dave Fox Captain Coconut 2

Dave

The other thing that can make life easier (and cheaper) is to use normal pots (ie. with solder lug) as PCB mounted pots.

Solder some solid core wire legs on to each lug contact, and voila, you have a PCB mount pot.

This is how I do it anyhow (PCB mount alpha pots are quite expensive to get hold of in UK).

Other little tips I use:

* Add some sticky foam insulation behind the pots to prevent shorts. This will also give a little 'wriggle room' for fitting the pots.

* If desoldering the full pot is fiddly, then its easy to just snip of the pot and remove the wire legs individually from the PCB.

* If even more wriggle room is needed,  drill mounting holes on enclosures an little bit larger (ie. 7.5mm rather than 7mm). Use locking washer internally to fix the pots solidly when mounted.

All great tips here. Plus, I have a Hakko desoldering gun which really helps if things go wrong.

Dave