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So what we have below is her OD that my guitar tech neighbor ( he is Derek's and Susan's guitar tech) gave me to fix a few things on. To say I'm nervous to not screw it up in some way would be an understatement. It's got a jacked up battery cable that was "hot wired" 10 min before a show as it putzed out. The 9v jack took a Mike Tyson in his prime blow and punched it in which I assume someone stepped on it sideways or something fell on it. The more invasive thing is pulling the Vol pot B100k and replacing it. It works but where the solid shaft meets then knurled part you can actually open it up a bit. There is a lot of play. I would guess that when it was on its side and took the blow the Vol know got bent as well creating this plan in the shaft. I have since decided though since he says she has not had any issues with the pot to just leave it along.

Anyone familiar with Moollon from South Korea? I did some research. Interesting stuff on them. It is clear they really don't want anyone poking around at their PCB.

This is one of Aion's. My ears really dig the fuzz on this one and it's rather interactive. I haven't messed with the PUP switch yet as I've only tested this pedal on its own. I'll stick a few pedals in front of it and see what the deal is or whether I can even tell a difference.

So this is a sister thread to the one I started about the wah and I thought I'd simplify it a bit. If I can figure out the poles on the Carling DPDT I can convert over to the 3PDT. I've Googled until my heart is not content. I found the data sheet but I can't locate what each pole might represent in the below pic.

Can someone help me with which pole represents what for wiring with respect to swapping this out for a 3PDT? The first pic is the current DPDT in the wah. The second pic is what a site says to convert over for a PS. In that second pic with 6 poles what does he one wire to?



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So, my new neighbor who moved in next door in a rental happens to be the guitar tech for Derek Trucks and Susan Tedeschi. No really he is. He would like a 9v PS with the battery option and an LED, basically like we build them now put into an old wah. Ok, if new easy peasy. However, this is not MY old wah so I'm not jumping in guns a blazin'. He thinks it's vintage and while it's old I have no idea if it has mojo but to him it does. So with that in mind.....

I've poked around on the webz and one thing that pops up is that once modified for the PS it becomes noisy. Some other folks said theirs was not. Who knows with this one.

Question 1: Can I dive in and wire for TB like all the others, stereo jack for in the input of course for battery use, LED, etc... or is there something about how these things were wired that would not allow for what appears to be a straightforward fix?

Question 2: If I do wire for TB do I have to cut the buffer trace/get rid of the buffer in some way? I read this over at Stinkfoot.

I don't intend to mess with the PCB per se if I can help it. I'll just strip the existing old wire and lengthen with the new wire not disturbing the PCB at all.

I'm wide open to some thoughts and potential pitfalls to bringing this puppy up to modern times.

So I bought a bunch of boards a few years back and didn't realize I bought two very similar boards. Have not had time to A/B per se for fun.



[url=https://flic.kr/p/2pzDj8j]

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So everything seems to work great but for the classic high pitch wine. It's on all settings. It's so loud it makes it unusable.

Anyone have any suggestions on what tweaks I can make?

So can these be used to light several pots or is it just for one?

If so how does the wiring work from one pot to the next?

I guess if you build enough pedals you run into firsts. So I built up the Horizon, amazing pedal love it, and used it for a few months. Then one day the LED doesn't come on. The pedal still works. I think no biggie, bum LED so I swap it out. Nothing. So I figure let me pull it off board and wire directly to jack. No go but here is my question.

Can I ground the LED to any ground point? I thought I could. Typically I don't use 4PDT boards and wire the LED's with the ground attached to the 3PDT. But since this build uses the 3PDT board I can't do that. So, I just wired it to my main ground point at the input jack with the 9v anode directly to the DC jack like normal.

Anyone have any troubleshooting thoughts? Did any of this make sense? 

So, I just finished testing this one and it is working but I have quite the wonky voltage reading. I'm thinking it might sound better, or how it was designed, if I can figure out why this weird voltage reading. All other readings are on par. Anyone have any thoughts?

Q1
C = -.68
B = 121.4   
E = 0

Q2
C = -4.38
B = -.68
E = -.55

Anyone have a good source for this? Is there an equivalent for this build?

So I have been working on my quarantine family and basically building 10 pedals at the same time. First 8 fire right up. Then I get to my 2 Blueshifts. Both are completely dead. Not a single sound so it would appear I have fundamentally done the same thing wrong, maybe. Built one with stock bypass and one with minimal bypass.

Two quick questions.

1. Is there a mechanical connection between the boards? By that I mean I don't have the boards connected by header pins. I've used a different larger enclosure and have laid them flat.

2. How is the larger board grounded and how does it get voltage? The small board gets grounded and has the 9v connection.

Well, my trusted source, Papillo, has discontinued them for us small fries. So, I'm on the hunt. Who do yo guys use? You like? Dislike.

I know not all water slide decals are made the same. Papillo's were killer as I never had an issue with them. Some others are not so good.

So this BOM shows 2.2uf FILM caps for 3 spots. I've never seen anything larger than a 1uf film cap in pedal projects so needless to say I don't have the 2.2uf film ones.

Can I still use a 2.2uf electro in it's place? If so, what are some possible differences?

I don't have any more ordres to make so paying $8 for shipping for 3 caps from Mouser is something I'd like to avoid  guess.

1. Is there a work alike transistor for the BS250p? Literally the only thing I need is that and just ordering that from Mouser will be an expensive transistor.
2. How important is the 1/4 ratings on those 5 resistors? I do have some 1/4 watt stuff but not those values.

So, I'm going to build a compressor called the Constrictor from PedalPCB. It calls for a VTL5C10 but I can't locate anywhere. I can however find the VTL5C9. Is it a good swap.

Below is the data sheet description. As it relates to how the compressor would act I have no idea if the '9' is swap worthy for the '10'. Anyone else have a thought or ten?
-

VTL5C9 has a 112 db dynamic range, fast response time, high dark resistance, but with a more shallow slope and lower "on"
resistance at low (1 mA) drive currents than the VTL5C1. VTL510 offers a low "on" resistance at low drive currents, a fast response
time, and has a smaller temperature coefficient than the VTL5C9.

Anyone ever used one and or know anyone who has ever used one?

https://www.tonewoodamp.com/

So I have a relatively new mahogany Martin and it is just a tad dark sounding for my tastes. When I plug in of course I can adjust and it sounds great. But unplugged I need more chime for what I like to hear.

Is there such a thing as some strings being more chimey than others? What strings might you guys suggest in this situation?

Ok, so I've built Bean's MXR117 SAD 1024 version. It's up and running and sounds great except for the noise. While I can live with a little noise there is just too much to make this pedal usable. I'm out of my element on how to reduce it to where it's tolerable. I've tried it on a One Spot as well as my Voodoo Lab's PS and it is the exact same. It is not in a chain of pedals.

Noise wise, you hear the clock but if that was all I heard it is low enough to where I could get by and not sweat it too much. But the classic swooshing thing is just too much.

Any thoughts on how I might attack this problem would be helpful. I realize the SAD has more inherent noise however no way do I believe that all the old SAD chips were this noisy by 'design'. Now, this SAD chip could be in and of itself 'bad' but before I decide that I'd like to try a few things to bring it down some.

I have pics below to see if anyone spots anything out of whack. All the pots work however the one that jacks this pedal up is if I take the Regen past 75% there is an immediate squeal and I don't mean the kind that you go huh and it goes up when you keep turning. I mean the kind that will make you come out of your skin immediately.

Also of note the trimmer nearest the top and nearest the SAD chip is very scratchy while turning.

Thoughts from anyone?

This saddens me. I loved that dudes music. What an original.

I'm sure this has been discussed before at some point but what is your favorite method of stringing guitars? For you flamenco guys I'm talking steel strings