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Do not mod the case or anything! Simply get a 9V battery clip and a female DC barrel plug to make a "dongle" similar to this:
https://www.taydaelectronics.com/9v-9-volt-battery-clip-connector-with-barrel-jack-plug.html
You can easy create a space for the thin wires to fit through by putting a spacer washer in between the bottom plate screw and the case. This mod will work to be able to plug into a modern power supply, but you will not be altering the originality of the pedal in any way.

*edit* There is one reversible mod I would highly recommend:  carefully desolder one leg of that 33K resistor at the top of the PCB to take it out of the circuit. Guaranteed the wah will sound better without it. The original Thomas organ patent didn't have it. I know it's the "Q" resistor, but in my experience I've found it to be the "poo" resistor; some wahs even put a potentiometer there, so you can adjust the levels of poo! Leave it out.

Lars, great advice on the 33k. I would have to ask him about that one but it is easy enough. I could socket it to in case he didn't like it down the road.

As far as altering the case I plan to first not drill holes, wire up the PS and LED hanging loose and then get with him and ask him one more time if he is sure. He never plans to sell it. He has had it a long time and he is young. At the end of the day I'll go with what he wants to do.

But I hear what you mean and say about not doing irreversible damage to a vintage pedal.

I'm only seeing two transistors there, so I don't think there's a buffer to remove. For the TB mod, take a look at Stinkfoot's site. He tells how to do it on all the various Dunlop versions, so the oldest wired one would probably be translatable to this Thomas Organ one.

I never know that about the Q resistor. I upped it to 47k on the old Dunlop I have and it was an improvement, but I may try taking it out to see what happens.

Thanks Bret. I found the exact board off a link he supplied that had good instructions.

I'm not messing with the PCB itself as it's not mine. I just hope I can get it working with a PS and an LED without killing the pedal!

So, my new neighbor who moved in next door in a rental happens to be the guitar tech for Derek Trucks and Susan Tedeschi. No really he is. He would like a 9v PS with the battery option and an LED, basically like we build them now put into an old wah. Ok, if new easy peasy. However, this is not MY old wah so I'm not jumping in guns a blazin'. He thinks it's vintage and while it's old I have no idea if it has mojo but to him it does. So with that in mind.....

I've poked around on the webz and one thing that pops up is that once modified for the PS it becomes noisy. Some other folks said theirs was not. Who knows with this one.

Question 1: Can I dive in and wire for TB like all the others, stereo jack for in the input of course for battery use, LED, etc... or is there something about how these things were wired that would not allow for what appears to be a straightforward fix?

Question 2: If I do wire for TB do I have to cut the buffer trace/get rid of the buffer in some way? I read this over at Stinkfoot.

I don't intend to mess with the PCB per se if I can help it. I'll just strip the existing old wire and lengthen with the new wire not disturbing the PCB at all.

I'm wide open to some thoughts and potential pitfalls to bringing this puppy up to modern times.

Nice work!

Is that like a 10mm LED poking out there?    Looked like a really smooth bezel type. Also dig the vinyl-sleved levers on the toggles. Also, what enclosure houses the redshift? looks a bit longer than the XX.

Thank you sir. Yeah, I started using the 10mm's years ago. I was using amp jewel lights but I thing that might be gilding the lily a bit    I just do it cuz I can and I don't gig so I don't have to worry about being blinded on a gig. Yeah, the little switch condoms give it some grip when flipping.

Well as with most things I like Double D's    It's a 1590DD.  Again, without gigging pedal board space is a non decision for me.

So I bought a bunch of boards a few years back and didn't realize I bought two very similar boards. Have not had time to A/B per se for fun.



[url=https://flic.kr/p/2pzDj8j]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2pzEh7v]

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2pzFy9W]

Hey Brian, is the Collosalus coming back?

Power supply. Phasers are sensitive to line noise. I was pulling out my hair and I must have disassembled a phaser a dozen times before I figured that out.


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Jimilee, you are the man. That's all it was. Many thanks JL.

Bean, to your point, no there is no whine in the circuit! 

Power supply. Phasers are sensitive to line noise. I was pulling out my hair and I must have disassembled a phaser a dozen times before I figured that out.


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Ok, I'll play around with that a bit. I did have a regulated wall wart but I'll pop into my good PS on my board.

Ok, so oddly enough I had bought the Redshift from Aion and just tested it. I get the exact same whine with the same symptoms of combo of sounds altering the pitch and speed of the whine.

What is the common denominator ( yeah I know besides my soldering iron  )? The LM13700. Sooooo, could I have gotten a lousy batch? Might it exhibit the dreaded whine? I would not ever recall where I go those. Sure it could have been Tayda but I can't say. 

I have no idea what projects I have done in the past that might have this chip. I will need to do a little recon on some other phasers that I have that work to see if I can swap some out.

Hey Brian thanks for chiming in.

Yes, even with the FB all the way down. The pitch barely changes with the rate but it does.

No matter where I toggle and what switch I hit the whine is there. It alters a bit or a lot depending on what combo of sounds I land on. Maybe a bad IC issue? I haven't yet taken voltages if that would matter.

So everything seems to work great but for the classic high pitch wine. It's on all settings. It's so loud it makes it unusable.

Anyone have any suggestions on what tweaks I can make?

Sure thing. If you need any more clarity, chime back in.
Also, if 6ou use a footswitch board that utilizes a trimmer for the CLR, you can under size your CLRs on the baby pot boards and have the overall brightness be adjustable.
Something I've started doing. Especially for builds for others.
An example would be, if you were going to use a 4k7 resistor, use individual CLRs(on the baby board) of 2k-3k(varrying depending on LED being used, use the lowest "safe" CLR value for that type of LED), then use a 2k trimpot on the footswitch board. All this with any CLR on the main pcb jumpers.

Nice to see another Nashville builder on the forum.

Great idea and most interesting.

Ditto on Nashville. The past few years I haven't built much but still had projects in line that I started a few years back. Amazing what I forget by not thinking/using it. I guess it's true. Use it or lose it.

Thanks jwin.

I bought these on here

https://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/_folders/BreadBuddies/pdf/14mm.pdf

So each board goes to one pot. I have my on/off LED and then I want both pots to light up when the pedal is kicked on. in the past I believe I recall boards like that where you would daisy chain each pot board to the other and then hook up to the 9v PS. i'm trying to figure out how do daisy chain the pot boards together so both pots light up.

I guess i could run each pot to the 9v supply and stack it there.

That's them but I bough Bean's board so I'm unclear how I chain one of his boards to the other so both pots light up.

Now I realize my subject post is misleading. I should have said Bean's boards and how to chain those. My bad.