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Look at that douchebag's face, he is taking the piss and he knows it:  http://www2.gibson.com/News-Lifestyle/News/en-us/Gibson-Brands-CORONET-Mark-Lui-Guitar.aspx

It seriously looks like my 6 year old got at it with a stick on bling kit.

Free shipping!  http://www.chicagomusicexchange.com/pages/shipping-returns#freeshipping

Trying to find a 50kB (or ICAR) way pot to fix a modded Vox 847 Wah (not my mods), but having no luck at all.  I found this one on Small Bear http://smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/speed-pot-dunlop-rotovibe-ecb224/ but cant tell if its a A or B taper, and its not sealed.

I looked at smallbear, mammoth, ebay, pedal parts plus, but no luck.  Anyone have any ideas? As best I can tell my only other option is to go to a 100k, which might be better anyways as then I can get a good sealed Hot Potz with ICAR taper etc.

I have been doing some searching but am seeming to get nowhere, and am going crosseyed from reading data sheets at the end of the work day.

Is it possible and practical to build a charge pump that:
- outputs 15v
- Can provide 400-500 mA output current. (looked through all the roadrage stuff, LT1054 puts out the highest current at 100mA)
- Takes a 9V input.  Also current consumption is key here, no point in even doing it if its going to pull like 2 full amps or something.

The idea is, for a pedal like a Radial Tonebone which takes 15v and claims to pull 400mA, to be able to build a little charge pump in a box to put between the 9v output of say a 1-spot or other power brick and the Tonebone.

Am I crazy?

Can anyone help me identify these diodes. Got them ages ago, used them in a Klone, and I am pretty sure they are either 1n270 or 1n34a.  They are marked DJ 025 T.

Click to link to full size version

Just saw this.  Would kill to get my hands on a couple of the enclosures used, so much cool stuff could be built.

Hello all,

I have been working up a Green Bean for a good friend of mine who plays rockabilly and surf music.  He plays with the Treble on his amp pretty much maxed out, and is finding that with the TS engaged he is getting too much high end (too shrill).  I have been trying to figure this out on my own, but am scratching my head a bit.  I have read over RGs article on the TS, and everything on Bevis about input and output caps, filter networks etc.

So far I have increased C1 to 1u, which I believe should let more bass through.

As far as next moves I think I have two options:
- Increase the value of C4 a bit, again to let more bass through, I know this is what the Fat switch does I just thought if I increase C4 a bit I will get even more bass coming though.

- Option # 2, now this is where i am confused.  I left the bright switch out, but i didnt jumper the pads because I just assumed that the bright switch was "additive" (more bright when on) as opposed to subtractive (more bright when off).  But when I am comparing the schematic in RGs article, it seems like I may have been wrong as he is talking about the low pass filter formed by the 1K resistor and the 220N cap (R8 and C6 in the MB schematic), but C6 will not be active in my build as I left out the bright switch.

Does any of that make sense?? If I jumper the bright switch pads will that activate that low pass filter and cut some of the treble??   Is there other areas of the circuit that I could adjust to roll off some of the treble?

Also assuming I would want to adjust that low pass filter to attenuate more treble, am i correct in thinking that I would want to increase the value of the 1K resistor (R8)?? Would I also need to adjust the cap value (C6).  Anything else I need to take into account here??  Also does anyone have any good links for high/low pass filters in pedals??

This is my best build to date for sure. Its FF and CJs Stutter Trem. Decal and envirotex went down perfect, the paint is much more metallic in person. I had the wiring all nice and bundled up and then I mixed two of them up and had to undo it all anyways  :roll:  It is so much fun, i love this thing.



Guts

This is a V6OD from GuitarPCB. I finished it on wed but due to work insanity didn't get to play it till tonight, sounds great so far.  I love dirt :twisted:  This is the first time I had something not fire up right away, where I had to do significant troubleshooting to find the problem.  Which was a tiny solder bridge off one of the transistor sockets.  It was actually really fun and i learned a ton by using the audio probe as always.



Guts

Ok so its not really a build blitz, i just finally got my hands on a camera.  This is a Pork Barrel .  Also used the light up pots, I really need some better LEDs the rate one is no where near bright enough. I have never had a chorus before so am still feeling it out, I like it though, I got all spacey with it and some delay and OD tonight. I added a roadrage charge pump for 15v.  Also I think I am done with batteries.



Guts

I rehoused my confidence boost in a 1590a with one of the prototype light up pot daughter boards.

This is a Chunk Chunk . I am super happy with this one, it sounds great, chunky and lots of sustain. It dosen't sound anything like anything else I have so that's always nice. It took forever to get the trimpots adjusted



Guts



Under the hood

First up is a MB Poindexter.  This thing is wild! Really over the top buzzy octave goodness. Sooooo loud.  At first I was getting crazy clear radio interference when the gain knob was above 9 oclock, I added a 470pf cap which helped a bit, and then I did the inside of the box with copper shielding tape and that has it down to barely audible when the gain is up fairly high. I think also we have really crappy power and wiring in our house, and we are 1 km from a radio tower, so im happy with it for now.  I had some little daughter boards made to hold the led in place under the clear pots and it worked out really well.





Guts


This is the little board for holding the LED in place inside the shaft of the pot.  Works great.




Also here is a GGG Ross Compressor that I just finished.  I've never had a compressor before so I cant wait to play around with it.  If anyone has experience setting the trimpot, I would love to know what I should be listening for.  I also learned how important it is for the enclosure to be perfectly level when pouring envirotex.   



Guts



And last a kill switch. Cause why not.

So I am currently building up a Pork Barrel and I am planning on using a Road Rage to supply 15V. I just noticed that the electro caps I have used on the Pork Barrel board are rated at 16v, should I be worried, should I swap them out? I have 50V replacements for everything except the 47uF one. 

Ok, I have been trying to wrap my brain around adjusting pot values in my builds and I think I have some of it figured out and would like peer review so to speak, and some help with other bits.

So start with the most straight forward stuff that I think i have figured out:

Decreasing linear (B) pot values:  If I have a control (Fuzz say) on a linear pot where only the first part of the sweep of the pot is useful (say the first 1/2 of the rotation), and the last part is not (noise or too over the top say) I can just decrease the value of the pot (eg from 100K to 50K)

Decreasing audio (A) pot values:  Same scenario as above where only the first portion of the sweep is usable.  I can do the same thing, decrease the value, but keeping in mind the log taper will mean that the first part of the sweep is increasing resistance much more slowly than the last part. Here I would try to get the knob to the end of the useable part of the sweep then measure the resistance and replace with another alpha pot that maxes out near that value.

Ok, on to more complicated stuff:
Switching from audio to Linear:  If when using an audio pot the usable range is confined to a small section of the sweep (that is probably not at the beginning) I could try switching to a linear to "stretch out" the usable range so to speak.

Switching from Linear to audio :  If when using a linear pot, there was lots of change in the first part of the sweep and "slower" change in the last part I could switch to an audio pot, probably with a larger overall resistance.

Ok, and this is where I am lost
I have a one knob booster that was using a 100K audio pot.  It hits unity volume almost exactly at 12 o'clock (I measured this at about 15K).  The booster is pretty much totally useless as it goes from unit to dead quiet in less than 10 degrees counter clockwise, and from unit volume to way to @#$ loud in 2-3 degrees clockwise.  I am thinking that I should be switching from an audio to a linear pot, perhaps a 25kB??

Any help with my above question, and any thoughts or other scenarios, issues, etc would be most appreciated.

This is a GGG NPN Ge Fuzz Face. Definitely my best looking and best sounding build so far.  The envirotex pour went really well.  I think next time I wont cut the holes out of the decal first and drill them out after the pour.  Also I used painters tape to tape the side jacks and some around the dc jack that got stuck under the envirotex shows.  Next time I am going to cover them with an extra piece of clear waterslide decal.

The extra bright LED is, well, extra bright, too much so, i sanded it a bit to dull it but it is still pretty blinding.  I will change it out when my next order comes.

It sounds absolutely amazing, has a nice range of milder fuzz to total destruction, buttery smooth Ge fuzz goodnes.  I threw the wah on and instant Hendrix.  Totally in love with this pedal.



I built it with the extra trimmer at R5 but I am not sure if it is really useful, I will keep playing with it though.  I built it -9V using NPN matched transistors from smallbear. 

Here is a GGG Brassmaster that I made for a bassist friend. This was my first envirotex pour and I am super impressed with the results, but there has got to be a better way to get somewhat of a nice clean edge along the bottom. I used the method of taping a cardboard edge around the bottom to allow the envirotex to keep running down, which worked well, but I think I waited too long to trim it off as it wound up a little ragged.

This was crazy tight in the 1590BB and I never was able to get the nut on the inside of the DC jack.

The friend has rocked it out a couple of times and says it is awesome, he can get some good OD type sounds and lots of low end coming through with the Bass knob up, but he says that the Brass(Beast) and Sensitivity knobs need to be adjusted as all the usable range is in the first 1/4 turn. Its a monster of a pedal, they were worried about breaking gear.  Demo to come soon.



For paint I have been using custom mixed colors that a local auto shop does in small batches for me and this Peval spray gun thing that uses small canisters of compressed air and a little bottle to essentially make a spray can using any color.  It works great and you can really see the metalic sparkle in this one.



Guts.  Total spaghetti. If I do one of these again I will definitely lose the "Harmonics" switch as it sounds way better with it on. Living up to my handle, or ran out of electrical tape, you decide.

I am building a GGG Maestro Brass Master kit (http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/projects/14-bass-effects/62-brass-master) for a friend, and I want to lift the diode clipping section onto a toggle switch to switch between Ge and Si diodes. I am planning on using 1N4001 for the Si and some NOS Ge "work-alike for 1N34a and others" from Small Bear for the Ge.  I am thinking of using a 4PDT toggle switch wired as below.  Will this work? Am I missing something obvious?  I am a bit of a noob still, especially in terms of going "off script". All help is appreciated.

EDIT: I realized a really obvious and stupid error in the first drawing, this is the corrected one