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Hey Alan, no didn't get that far. I did the main vero and the power vero (was there a separate power vero... It's all vague in memory now). By the time I finished doing the vero and looked at all the off board wiring that needed doing next and the separate grounds, I shelved it as decided it needed too much time investment.  (OK, basically couldn't be arsed!)



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Cool. Well if this is the official sign up thread, count me in. My vero version is still on the shelf from 3 years ago and I don't think I will have the time to finish all the off board wiring


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I used the vactrols as specified in the BOM. It passes signal in wah mode but doesn't really sound filtered. Also when I turn the filter and Rez trimmers I can't hear a difference.
I tried your earlier suggestion of changing the 5088, I didn't have one to hand so I tried a 2n3904 but no difference.
I think my 4017 might be dodgy. All the voltages are as in the build doc but in bypass mode, all the pins have varying voltage 0-up to 2.5 depending on the pin, with the exception of pins 8, 9, 11, 13, 15, 17 which are zero. According to the build doc most of the pins on the 4017 should be zero in bypass mode.


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Let me know if you figure out the wah issue, I have the same problem as mine trems but doesn't wah


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Gets the thumbs up from me. I would have positioned the LED as the Death Star laser


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Nice one.  I bought a new LP last month, reminds me, I need to post up a NGD sometime.
I like the decal on the 12th fret


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Edit, I mean inlay, not decal!

Oh, and the pedal sounds awesome too

i'm a noob at this but the sleeve pins maybe try wiring directly to the input/output jacks grounds. Maybe a ground issue

Hey satriani, for a noob thats a top answer and youre spot on.  I thought it would solve issue 1 as i guess I had wired the jack grounds to earth ground rather than signal ground-and it did, issue 1 sorted. 
I wasnt expecting it to solve issue 2 as well but it did!  Thanks a lot.  If anyone has any ideas why it solved issue 2 and why the capacitor helped when i had the grounds wrong, I would be glad to be educated.

Anyway, thanks again satch, much appreciated!

Pics

Hi all, Im having some trouble with my total recall build and would really appreciate some guidance.  Ive tested with 3005's and also 3008s.  The voltages provided were done with 3008's.

Theres 2 main issues:

1 – a lot of mains noise in the signal path.  Im using a new EHx branded PSU and the voltage regulator is from mouser.  Ive followed all the values in the BOM with the exception of the 1W 240R which I have subbed with a 1W 220R as my mouser 240R is on backorder.

2- Im getting delay when I probe the BBDs and I have biased as per the document.  (interestingly, with only 1 BBD installed, Pin 3/4 gives me what sounds like the actual signal but I get delay when I probe with both BBDs installed.  Im sure there is a reason for this which someone will hopefully educate me about.

However, the output is a distorted signal (sounds like a ring mod/bitcrusher type noise) which is very quiet with no delay, or maybe there is some delay but is so quiet that I cant tell. 

However, if I attach a 100n cap across the output to the testing rig, this sorts out the problem, ie no distortion on the signal/delay and the volume is louder and the delay repeats sound clean.  (the reason I did this was because when I was probing the signal path, the output was clean when I probed the signal path up to the output compared to hooking up to the testing rig. 
The same happens when the pedal is in bypass, ie vol drop and distortion.

Ive attached some pics and have written my voltages on the voltage sheet in the build doc.  Obviously they are all –ve voltages.  Some of the voltages on 1 of the 4558s look a bit below the expected voltages.

All the parts were from mouser/chromesphere/farnell.  As far as tayda parts, the 4558s, pots and trimmers came from there, I pre-tested the pots/trimmers before soldering

Any ideas.  I really want to get this one working, while Ive built quite a lot of madbean and other projects successfully but Ive always seemed to have had bad luck with the analog delays; I was never really happy with my dirtbag build and aquaboy dlx is in the box of fail so if I get this working, ive checked a significant milestone!

Thanks

+1 to that. I just landed on this thread after rechecking the musikding site today

Turning trim 1 makes no difference? Did you get it from Tayda...? Just wondering if the trim its self is a dud.

As you're in England, if you can't get it sorted i'd happily take a look if you wanted.

Thanks Scruffie, much appreciated, it's good to know there's a plan b if all fails.

I've adjusted the bias resistors and the best I can get out of pin 7 is 7.1v with an input of 14.8-14.9 on the ne570. I used 39k for the resistors. Is that close enough?  Otherwise I'll have to order some odd values.

Your comment about the trimpots made me suspicious as they are indeed from tayda, so I pulled them and they are to spec. It's strange, it's not that turning the trim doesn't do anything, there's a very brief moment on turning the trim really slowly when I get some signal from the oscillator I've connected the circuit to but it's not delayed signal and all I get is a brief blip but can't get that signal to stay. Otherwise it's just clock noise.

I don't know if the above helps in anyway but I'd be interested to know if you make anything of it. I probably have a replacement 3101 so I could try changing that but haven't done so yet. The source was Steve from dr tweek in the UK and generally they are reputable.




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Thanks for your replies guys. It's midnight here in England, I'll report back tomorrow evening.


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Hi all.  Im stuck with the aquaboy DLX.  Actually, I built it several months ago but shelved it in the hope that looking at it with a fresh pair of eyes might help. 

Anyway, the problem Im getting is no delay but dry signal only.  Ive looked through the multiple other threads with the same problem but no luck. 

Anyway, Im running it on 15v via the road rage. Ive used an audio probe on pin 3 of IC3 but I'm getting a whine only which i presume is the clock noise, but no guitar signal.  Ive set the clock frequency to 6.5kHz on pins 2 and 4 of IC5. 

Im getting clean signal at pin 7 of IC3.  Turning the bias1 trim makes no difference to pin 3. Ive also swapped it out with a tested 3005 but no difference.  (also got one of the legs of the 3005 stuck under my fingernail in the process of lifting it, which I wouldn't recommend to anyone!)

Heres the voltages:

IC1 LF353
1 - 7.38
2 - 7.38
3 - 7.38
4 - 0
5 - 7.38
6 - 7.38
7 - 7.38
8 - 14.8

IC2 NE570
1 - 0.95
2 - 1.8
3 - 1.8
4 - 0
5 - 1.8
6 - 1.8
7 - 7.88
8 - 1.8
9 - 1.8
10 - 4.64
11 - 4.64
12 - 1.8
13 - 14.8
14 - 1.8
15 - 1.8
16 - 0.9

IC3 MN3008
1 - 14.32
2 - 7.16
3 - 10.21
4 - 10.21
5 - 0
6 - 7.16
7 - 14.19
8 - 0.95

IC4 MN3008
1 - 14.32
2 - 7.16
3 - 4.88
4 - 4.86
5 - 0
6 - 7.16
7 - 5.82
8 - 0.95

IC5 MN3101
1 - 14.32
2 - 7.16
3 - 0
4 - 7.16
5 - 6.14
6 - 7.82
7 - 6.85
8 - 0.95

IC6 TL062
1 - 0.6-14 variable
2 - 6-8 variable
3 - 6-8 variable
4 - 0
5 - 6-8 variable
6 - 6-8 variable
7 - 6-8 variable
8 - 14.8 variable

Q1
C - 14.8
B - 6.7
E - 6.38

Q2
C - 14.8
B - 7.83
E - 7.23

Q3
C - 14.8
B - 4.8
E - 4.2

Q4
C - 14.8
B - 4.24
E - 3.64

Heres a pic of the board.  Let me know if theres any other info/pics that might help.

Cheers

Sweet, did you design the board yourself?


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