Messages

Here's mine in "mid build" just need to fasten stuff down and the power supplies underneath.

It's enterily for my own amusement, no idea if it would live as it would probably pick up all kinds of interferance 



Goes like this:
GUitar > Tuner> MXR Blue Box/Dwarfcraft Robot Devil Hybrid clone thing > EHX Doctor Q (about to get modified for LED & power etc) > Dwarfcraft HAX > GGG Tone Toaster (JD Sleep actually made this for me years and years ago, think I was the first to ask for a double stomp rather than the standard toggle for the octave) > MadeByMike Custom DualPedal (Mike's take on the OsMutantes Fuzz and a Green Ringer) > BOSS XT-2 > BOSS BF-2 > @Probodger Zirconium Tweezer > Digitech JamMan Solo

Then if no one is about that all goes into a Series II Yamaha G100 212 amp or if house is full, or it's late a 10w practice amp with headphones.


Just need to add in a tremolo and delay pedal, I have my eye on one of those baby board builds, the Cave dweller for the delay. 

You can't get more pedal friendly than this lot..  Avengers in Sci-Fi

Bonkers is good 

Wow that Alice pedal looks amazing! Is it your own idea or lifted from some other inspiration?
bet it saves on the pedal board real estate 

Or use a max1044. Smallbear has them.

Jacob

Could do, but as shawnee's post below your's suggests. My thinking is why replace a fragile part with the same if I am going to take that beast apart. So I may as well go for a more reliable part of the same design to save doing it again in the future.
(I'll solder in a DIL socket too while I'm at it)

I have a pedal with a suspected blown MAX1044 (Snarling Dogs Mold Spore) ...So reading this thread could I simply just drop in one of the ICs mentioned as a replacement, or would I need to check the pinouts etc?

With a bit of meddling and swearing, I have now addedan Expression pedal bypass jack to it and re-housed it in a larger case.

[Pot lug/PCB 3: Jack Sleeve]

Thanks, I knew the FCV100 would be ok without modification as I've seen it used on another builders version of a HE.

Anyway last night I got it all working with a mono jack & patch lead.

For info for other newbie builders/meddlers like myself on this build it was the follwoing configuarion that worked:

Pot lug/PCB 3: Jack Sleeve
Pot lug/PCB 2: (straight through)
Pot lug/PCB 1: Jack Tip

Just need to paint it etc now it's be put in a new bigger case 

I'm trying to do this with a Karate Chop's (Harmonic Energizer) "Centre Frequency" control pot.

I can't quite figure out how to get it correct. So far the closest I've got is some slight variation in "frequency" but a huge amount of noise or a major scream when plugging the lead into the expression bypass jack.

Was wondering if I'm correct in thinking :

Pot Lug/PCB 1 = Ground/Sleeve
Pot Lug/PCB 2 = Tip
Pot Lug/PCB 3=  Ring




I have a moog and Berhinger FV100 Volume/Expression pedals,with the Behringer giving the best results so far.
Just a gentle nod in the right direction would be helpful as this is driving me nuts so far. 

--also been told I could use a "mono" version of one of these insulated jacks instead.

Finally a "gut shot"



Bit embarrassed by the huge Silver mica Cap but I got a little confused over the 2n in the parts listing and by the time I realised that 2000pF was the same I ordered what I could get on the current order from that particular supplier.

If anyone asks, it's my secret M@J@ part 

Phew thanks, for putting my mind at rest, was overly worried about the lack of a "f" after the n 

Took a wild guess and ordered a 2000pf after checking this: http://www.electronics2000.co.uk/data/itemsaf/capconv.php  but I think I also found your link as well on my travels.

Sorry for raising an old thread and a nooB questiona t the same time, but is 2n the same as 2000pF ?

I'll try with the one I built. Never really maxed the gain as it jsut gets too loud.

Will test and get back with results.  -- only issue I havewith mine is that it pops loudly when activated, depending on what pedals it's in front of or behind. So I need to test it out anyway. (I built the buffered version)

Thanks, I'll try and get some gut shots up tomorrow or at least sometime this week.  It's not pretty though 

I've been after a "Harmonic Energizer" clone type thing for a while but there are not many about without the extra Fuzz circuits added in.
So much like many peeps on this site that have built their own pedals, I set about building my first pedal.

I thought I'd cheat a bit and get a PCB and found one here on this site. I will go all hardcore and veroboard on next pedal build  :lol:
Took around four hours I think, in between school runs, making cups of tea and a trip to McDs for lunch.


Things learn't.. solder leads on the board/PCB first, not to the pots and jacks/switch, makes life easier when nearly complete and a neater install.

The rather fitting 70s colour scheme was a total accident. I had ordered a yellow LED as none of the pedals I have, have a yellow LED and brown knobs as I quite fancied something different.
Case was meant to be red Hammerite (smooth) as I have enough of that stuff to paint a cruise liner for one reason or another, then I found the can of Metallic Copper Shiny Spray at the back of the shed and used that instead and came up with this:



Best thing about it is it worked first bloody time!! So no gut shots as I'm not taking it apart incase it never works again although do need to sort out proper labeling etc so it may come apart sometime soon. May even redo it completely but the copper/brown is growing on me.

Only really tested it with my dirt pedals, some its better in front of, others behind. One supprise was it works really well with a Green Ringer. Like I said it works fine but depending on wher eit is in the chain you can sometimes hear a big "pop" when it's turned on /off.




All this..


into this..


Made the mistake of buying a DPDT switch instead of a 3 way one, so made up the "Buffered" version.
Not so clever soldering leads on this way first, should have done PCB end first.