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HI everyone, it's been a while since I've posted as I have been venturing in to radio to learn more about proper electronics before learning how to properly mangle a sine wave.

During my studies and construction of 20 cb radios I've learned a lot about different types of voltage regulator. It reminded me of all the different ways I tried to diode clip.  Every pdf and page I read showed diode clipping as improper. I purposely tend to over engineer bc I learn more.

My question is if I use some type of variable regulator will it work in place of the typical diode clipping config. My intention is to try and and adjust the level of clipping in a unique way. 

Seems to me that unless there is something I'm misunderstanding about this it should work well. Any info or tips would be appreciated.

Hi every one, sorry it's been so long since I've posted. I've been experimenting extensively with rf amps building linear amps for cb radio. I've got plenty more experience under my belt and I wanna use some of these fets I have for an overdrive. By the popularity of these od/ amp type distortion I was surprised there wasn't too many designs out there. Ideally I'd like to design each stage from scratch using the data sheets but we'll see how that goes.

I've got a butt load of 2sk117 and dying to see how they sound. I know Brian is the mac daddy at pedal designs so i thought about using the 85 as a starting point.how how does every one line it? Is it better than the drboogie? Has any one use the 2sk117 as a sub? If so how does it sound. Thanks in advance

Hello all. I'm looking for a pt2399 delay that's very modulated. The only one I have that modulates is the carbon co py. It's pretty weak. Thanks

Once again another fantastic idea madbean. I am wondering if amyone else has experienced this. The build works but once I boxed it up I noticed that it kills the signal a little bit. First of all I use d a 100 k pot instead of a50k for the mix pot. Also I use d 820k resistor for r12 because I didn't have a750k.  The only other sub was a 3n9 cap in place of the 4n7 cap. All my 4n7 were to large. Thanks

Hello all, in addition to building pedals I have also enjoyed fiddling with cb radios. I'm also a trick driver too.a while back I got a linear amplifier that gives more up too 250 watts. I know building one of these wouldn't bemuch different than a pedal. Except some different parts.  Any one when tried anything like this ? If so what would i need to get started?

After reading and experimenting and beating my head against the wall I finally have a layout I'm somewhat satisfied with for etching. I'm going to attempt to post pics later for some feedback. It's a simple version of the harmonic percolator. What I'm wondering is if there is a general grid size ya'll use for making sure the transfer comes out the corrct size with out tampering with it. I see in the GM tutorial he sets it to grid mil 50 2. Does that pretty much keep it the right size once I export the file? Hope this makes since.

I need for some one to break this circuit down to idiots terms for me. I know that it's a feedback circuit with clipping diodes. But does this count as a push and pull set up?

In the schematics over at Fuzz central I noticed all of the 'Benders using the darlington setup as Q2 & 3 where I see it as Q1 & 2 in other schematics. I used the Q1 & 2 in my buzzaround bc I preferred the sound. To ME it gives it more OD sound rather the the Lofi fuzz sound like the fuzz face. I also used a smaller input cap, lower than 10n. Do people inter change the darlington? I love the buzzaround btw. Works better for me than the tonebender even if only slight differneces.

Good morning everyone,
   
   What would happen if I used transistors in the voltage portion of a OD type circuit I've been working on? Would there be any benefit doing this or just wasting parts. I'm guessing some sort of push and pull design. My guess is that it would amplify available current? I'm just think outloud here. Thanks for reading.

  Grant

I've used this program for a while now just to whip up lil experiments in my mad scientist lab. I always grazed over the pcb and perf and went straight vero. Veros getting old and I prefer to just etch a board. Neater, cleaner, not so temporary feeling. Plus when you get BIG vero layouts like the openhaus and philosopher's tone it's quite the task to debug.. Oh yea.. Did I mention how bad eagle PISSES me off! I'm just not quite smart enough, or just a little to dumb. It goes over my head with all the errors and junctions..im missing somthing.. Anywho. I highly recommend this program for anyone who loves making their own layouts and a lil to dumb for eagle (itll will be my bitch one day but for now I'm her's). Ones I got the hang of think 3, 4, and 5 steps ahead it got pretty neat.

o ya, one question. I havnt used this as a transfer yet. When I go to print the pnp is it already sized out or do I have to figure that out. And how would one go about doing that?

I recently ordered my first batch of pt2399's. I've read countless post about these chips locking up. At first I thought this was my prob but I'm not thinking it is. I'm using the vero layout at sabrotone.com. The circuit works perfect sometimes and then all I get is the bypass. There's a 47uF cap to grd off of pin 2 that I think might have somthing to do w the prob. I can stick my screwdriver down and arc the leads and it triggers the circuit back on. Some times I have to arc the out and ground pins of the 7805. Any tips. I'm 95% sure the circuit work is good this is my first build w the chip so I'm still inexperienced w it.

I've built a butt load of pedals by now and I never in my life cared a whole lot for ANY fuzz pedal. In my process of building the openhaus I got a few extra transostors from steve at smallbear that came with specific resistors. I figured what the hell. It there has to be some reason SO many ppl love these. I put it together and I was surprised how much the simple design grew on me. In my experience pedals like these sound very gated and muddy. I HATE gated sounds. This was almost like a glassy overdrive that wasn't quite as smooth. I actually perfer the sound WITH a buffer in front. Don't nail me to hard...

so I started digging threw my transistor drawer and found some ac188 2n1309, ac128 and started learning the process of figuring gain leakage and all this wonderful stuff.

my question is to those who have build SEVERAL FF. When biasing I used the online calculator and I always come up short with the voltages. 2-3v for Q2 collector. Sounds muddy and gated. Grrrrrr. When I start tweaking resistors to get 4.5 it just doesn't sound the same as my finished build. I've been obsessing over this for 2 days and in need of some explaining.

Before anyone goes through the trouble of posting links (as much as I appreciate it) I've read them all. And I can't get a clear cut answer. Even when I use a trimpot it seems to compromise the circuit. The gains are 111 and 86 roughly both with 100 leakage. Am I doing somthing wrong?

So lately I've been obsessed with understand the basics of fet switching, I just have a hard time putting all this info to use. I've read a true buttload of info online (all the articles by RG, premier guitar and some of merlinb's projects). For some reason I just have a hard time sorting all of this out and applying it. Basically I under stand you need a bias to the drain and source and apply 9v to the gate through a diode and you have a basic working switch. By grounding the gate it turns it off. What I have trouble with is where to insert capacitors and why.

What I'm basically trying to do is use a simple Jfet stage booster, or a mu amp, or even a mosfet boost and apply jfet switching to select between the amplifier and the source follower buffer. What seems to be happening it when I ground one jfet  they are still both bleeding together. After sitting here writing this I'm thinking I need a capacitor between the source and the switching fet but this is just my thought.

Anyone whos got this method under control, I'd really appreciate some guidance. Like I said, I've read most the articles if not all that's searchable on google and the forums. I just can't seem to apply it.   Thanks.

Hey everyone. I'm still working on my amp. The peavy prowler. I've replaced all the tubes will JJ hi gain 12ax7 and matvhed 6L6GC and fixed up the jacks, lubed all the pots and it's back to life. The last problem (that I know of) is the remote channel selector. I understand that in order to remote select the switch ON the amp has to be engaged. I have the boost working with TIP and SLEEVE connected through an Led. The RING and SLEEVE are supposed to switch channels but it doesn't work. It goes through a mac97 triac which I'm not very knowledgeable about. It's a diode with an extra anode like a gate? That runs through a p channel Jfet J174. When I touch the TIP to the RING it also switches the boost which makes me think it might be grounded or shorted. Are these mac97 prone to this? And if I go ahead and change rhe jfet with 2n5460 (ithink) will this work? If you need a schem I can email. I don't know how to post the pic.

A friend of mine has been begging me to modify this thing to see if I can get rid of the mud. I can't find much info on it except that it's cheap. I was thinking about changing the input caps a size smaller, maybe fiddle w the tonstack some and change the diodes. Is there much else I can do to it?

I ordered some parts almost 15 days agao I think and it still hasn't arrived? Do they normally take this long? I useually use tayda but they don't  have the multilayered ceramics

on todays truck driving adventure I stumbled on one of these amps on craigslist for 350. I went by they guys house and both jacks were all goofed up so I offered 150$ and the guy sold it to me. Kind of a gamble but I brought it home and took it apart and it was just a loose jack.. Shew.. Score! The clean channel is amazing as I've read other reviews but the od channel just wasn't what I was hoping out of a tube amp. That being said who knows how old these tubes are, or if they're still biased correctly. The amp sat for 6 yrs.. He said. It's got 3 12ax7 and 2 6L6. I don't care for the tone stack on the channel either. So would it be a big difference to get a new set of tubes and bias? Or if it's playing should I leve it alone? Also is it possible(worth it?) to figure out away to add a gain stage to the preamp? That should give it a swift kick in the ass you think?

I'm still searchinh for the most practal way to make high gain distortions and really enjoying messing around with breadboards and veros. My question is for some really experienced people. When stacking op amp gain stages, how do you determine the gain for each stage and where to put the clipping diodes. The best result I've had was a tubescreamer type clipping section pushing jfet stages. This is somewhat noisey and I wish I could just use opamps. Is the idea to start with low gain and increase each stage? And what does one use to join each stage? Resistor, cap and bias?

Hi everyone, I looked at the schematic I downloaded a while back and just made a small vero layout because latley I'm very much obsessed with op amp gain stages. So intresting to me. Can some one explain a lil bit what a rail to rail power supply is exactly? I know it provides both + and -. But what does this do? What benefits does it have? Usually you want higher voltage than the peak of your pickup signal  for max head room. I can't rap my head around this but I absolutely love the way this booster works and sounds compared to the typical fet/transistor boost. How does +-9v give head room? Wave form I'm thinking. Would this circuit benefit from 12v power supply?

I have been experimenting making my own hi gain design and I had better luck than I thought. Only problem I can't seem to find an answer to is a definitive way of joining gainstages.. I'm basically joining op amp gain stages inverting. Any articles or links or good ol lecture would be appreciated. Thanks! Yall help me out so much.