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Update: Rewired it, checked all the solder joints on the board and now she's up and running. It sounds great, I have it set pretty low as a fairly subtle compression that works great for my music. I'll have to build another compressor at some point for variety, maybe something similar to the Diamond Comp.

Quick update, I tried the pedal again, still no sound when bypassed or when on but when I was messing with the trimmer with the effect on I started getting some hiss which leads me to believe that issue is likely with my input wiring, I'll be rewiring it tomorrow. I'll keep everyone updated as I'm sure it's helpful for others to learn from my mistakes.
Speaking of mistakes, I realized that the drill pattern I used for another pedal is completely unusable so it looks like I'll be using it as a breakout/proto pedal to test out future PCBs.

I had similar issue and it turned out to be a grounding issue. Your jacks are not close to the corners like mine were though. In any event grounding could cause it. I was going to ask if the LED works but looks like you might not have one hooked up as your switch board is not populated with LED or resistor.
Hope you sus it out soon-
C

The LED coming from the Cupcake board was not working after I added the 3pdt board, so I wired up the 3pdt LED and it worked.

Have you tried putting an insulator between the back of the pot and the back of the circuit board? Remember, the pot back is made of metal and will short anything it touches. I've got a section of ice cream container in mine separating them.

I used electrical tape over the pot and the bottom plate.

Thanks for the help thus far guys

Hey folks, I recently built the Cupcake compressor, I wired everything up off board because I'm impatient and it worked fine, then today upon getting a couple enclosures I boxed it up and it worked but it was a rats nest of wiring and upon tweaking the trimpot I subsequently wasn't getting any sound when bypassed or with the effect. I completely rewired it using a 3dpt board, much cleaner and tidier but now I'm still getting no sound when bypassed or with the effect on. The led on the board would no longer light up either after the switch, but the onboard 3dpt LED does. I'm hoping it's something simple, I've traced everything and it seems okay. I've uploaded pics here http://www.flickr.com/photos/mattgnarly/sets/72157629083298746/

Got a new amp and cab! This is what I've been playing through this weekend (Blacktop Jazzmaster -> VP Jr, Naga Viper, Formula 5, Sea Machine, Flashback -> Mesa Boogie Express 5:50/Lonestar 2x12 cab)

As far as the 5150 goes are you looking for something new specifically? Have you ever heard of any of the amps from the series right before 5150? Like Peavey Butcher, Mace or VTM-120? You can grab any of those 3 of Craigslist pretty regularly for 200-300 bucks.
I recently aquired a VTM-120 which is a hot rodded clone of a JCM800! I got it for 200 dollars and its freaking heavy duty!! A whole interactive EQ in the front section..check them out on youtube. That's if you want a high gain head and want to save!! 

The 5150 III is a EVH (Fender) product, the old 5150 (current 6505) is Peavey and they don't have a small format head, just a 60 watt combo (heavy as heck for a 1x12).

Building one is definitely in the cards, either a Marshall 18W clone or a Fender 5E3.  The desire to purchase is driven partially by the fact that I've accumulated enough air miles over the past year to get about $800 in Long and McQuade gift cards, and as such, makes a Transatlantic (or a Mini Rectifier, which I didn't think of before) really a $200 purchase.  Or an Egnater and a Marshall Class 5.

I've actually pretty much ruled out the V3M, not for features, but because of the shipping costs from Carvin.  By the time you add the $120 for shipping plus GST and brokerage for crossing into Canada, it's the same price as a TA15, Mini Rect, or 5150 III, and it's untested at the door.

I'll take a look into the Rebel 20 as well.  Not sold on Egnater, but truthfully, haven't tried them out.

If you're thinking about building an amp check out Trinity amps, they have a nice looking 5E3 build and a AC-15ish build too, if/when I have some spare cash that's the route I'll likely take. Or the 5150 III. Or both haha. 

I found the Tweaker to be a bit lacking when I tried it, I wanted to like it but it really didn't do much for me. I have yet to try the Carvin so I can't really comment on it. The Transatlantic is pretty cool, quite versatile, it would be my second pick from your list. And finally the 5153 would be my first choice, I just sold my 6505 to pay for a cab for my new Mesa but down the road would love to get a 5150 III for higain stuff, I know Darkest Hour are using them (the 100 watt) and in my opinion the EVH 5150 III sounds better than the old Peaveys. As for cab what are you thinking? I'm looking for a used recto 2x12 but will likely get a custom cab from Whitebox, I've heard great things about them.

does the effect work? Without that knowledge and/or pics or your wiring and circuit it would be darn near impossible to tell if your ground correctly or whatever problem you may have. I think one of the more common mistakes is not grounding both jacks when not boxed. Post some pics and details as to function, and some of the guys may be able to help you out.

It was indeed caused by not grounding both jacks, works like a champ now, Thanks Jimmy!

Hey folks, I finished (I thought) populating and wiring up the Cupcake compressor and figured I'd try it out and am getting a super loud humming, sounds like it isn't grounded. It is not boxed up, which is what I'm assuming is the problem (still waiting on enclosures), so is there a way I should be grounding it for now?

Is there any chance of these diagrams getting re-uploaded? I'm trying to figure out how to wire up a project without a battery snap (do I just omit the third terminal?) and if I can use mono jacks for both input and output (as the lack of snap would negate the need to ground it to the tip terminal). Any help would be greatly appreciated!

I just got rid of 3 guitars and still have too many, but here's some of my favourites:

My punk/metal rig (Edwards Viper, Peavey 6505+) and Alt-country/americana/indie rig (Fender Tele, Traynor Mark III)


My oldest guitar, 60's Silvertone Mosrite Slider:


Custom Uke:


Goldtone Banjo:

It is included on many pcbs but not all. I always use the 4k7 clr. I like bright LEDs

Thanks! That's the exact answer I was hoping to hear. So I'm going to assume that if a PCB has a 4k7 it's likely the clr

The clr is included, its the 4k7 resistor.

Thanks! Is this pretty standard for Madbean's boards? And I've heard for high brightness LEDs I should use a higher (10k or 12k) resistor, the board's already populated though so I'm hoping it won't make a huge difference. 

Ignore the first two questions, got those figured out ha ha. But I have another question, is the CLR part of the schematic or do I have to wire that up before boxing?
Thanks

edit: And does anybody by chance have the Zombii drill template?
Thanks again

it's the current limiting resistor for the LED. You need one or you will fry the LED with 9V. It goes between the power supply and the positive LED leg.

Thanks for the heads up, but what I was asking is whether the CLR is already included in the Zombii PCB or whether I have to add it when wiring the offboard led.