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Very cool stuff Rej, working with an entire band like that. Sounds like a dream job! I'm curious about the music, can you supply a link to some of their tunes?

Paul

If I were you, I wouldn't use an extra switch, but rather use switched jacks. This way, the loop is active whenever you plug something into it, and inactive when nothing's there. Provided the effect in the loop has its own on/off switch, you can turn it on or off by itself. If you do use a separate stomp for the loop, keep in mind that when there is nothing in the loop, and you inadvertently stomp it 'on', you're muting all sound. If you want that, that's ok, but just something to take into account!

Paul

From reading the article, I got the feeling that RG is relating to the part numbers from the Neovibe schematic. The first series of caps (1uF in series with the LDR's, C6, C8, C11, and C14 as RG identifies them) would be C8, C11, C13 and C16 in the Harbinger. From the Neovibe schematic I saw online, the next series ( C7, C10, C13 and C16, again what RG calls them) would be C9, C12, C15 and C18 in the Harbinger, with C18 being left as is, 1uF. Not sure this is correct, but I think if you compare the Neovibe schematic with the Harbinger, you'll find what you need.

Paul

If you want transparancy, give the Thunderpuss some thought. It is out of production, but maybe somebody has one lying around or you can get one etched or from OSHPark. I have one combined with a Greenbean, with a switch to change the order (OD into Boost or Boost into OD), that gives a whole bunch of different sounds. It also plays nice with a host of different OD's (good experience with Egodriver and raulduke's Prince Albert) and fuzzes.

Paul

I've been into Mastodon since Leviathan came out. These guys rock! Here is my favorite track:
Band: Mastodon
Song: Blood and Thunder
Album: Leviathan

Mastodon for the win!!! And this is a great track indeed. One of the bands on my must-see list.

Paul

Hey guys, just a quick question to see if I understand this correctly.... In the schematic of the Feta Complis (build docs attached below) there a four 680k resistors, in two pairs (R3 and R4, R16 and R17) connecting VA to ground. This looks like a voltage divider to me, and thus the value shouldn't matter too much, as long as they are the same. Since there is also an audio path involved here, I'm not sure this is correct, anybody have some input on this?

Paul

Since two SHO's are already capable of damaging an amp

Paul, you should know better than to perpetuate nonsense like this. There is no possible way you will damage an amp with the volume output of a booster running on 9V, 18V, split rail 9/-9, 18/-9, 18/-18, or even 120V (tube).

Two SHOs in series does not give more volume boost than 27dB in any case; one will overdrive the other. A single SHO already coaxes the maximum gain out of a MOSFET and it will hit the power rails at 27dB, which is why they don't sound clean.

Jon, sadly I don't have the time (or the will, for that matter) to delve into the science behind our wonderfull hobby as deeply as you have, so I have to rely on reliable sources, like yourself, or in this case Brian, to further my knowledge.

The Firebomb has a HUGE amount of boost on tap. Use caution when adjusting the gain controls so
that you do not damage your amplifier by pushing it too hard.

This came straight from the Firebomb build docs, and I apologize if it is not correct. BTW, I also don't have the funds to test this statement, as replacing my amp might seriously mess up the mortgage payments  Anyway, thanks for setting this straight, I'll keep this in mind when using my Firebomb build next time! Now I do want to know what three stacked SHO's sound like.....

Paul

The Superduper actually has a volume control added to the second SHO stage, check out MB's Firebomb (you can find it here http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=5134.0 in the discontinued projects section) to see how to incorporate this, shouldn't be too hard to incorporate.

Since two SHO's are already capable of damaging an amp, I don't think it would be a good idea to stack three of them, but who knows, it might sound cool....... For a very short time! 

Paul

This looks so cool. I have a board. Must build now. Good job Jimi!

Paul

I'll keep the derailment going...... The kJ/kg and water consumption are familiar, what kind of work do you do? I'm an HVAC engineer, and use those a lot in calculations.

Water consumption in tonnes? That's so weird to me. Why not kiloliters? Or kilolitre (however you spell it)?

Anyway, my company designs and operates energy-from-waste (EfW) power plants. Kj/kg (or rather BTU/pound) is how we measure the energy potential of garbage. 

Well, I didn't mean the 'tonnes' stuff, that's just weird! but the whole water consumption/content is familiar. We use the kJ/kg to calculate the amount of heating/cooling that can be transferred by a certain amount of air/water/whatever. What might be of interest to you is that the project I've been working on the last year and a half was a 50 MW bio energy plant. Not the actual energy producing part, but a lot of auxiliary processes. Back to the original derailment!

@alanp: a metric tonne of water is indeed a kiloliter, aka a cubic meter, 1000 liters or 10⁹ cc's

units are a wonderfull thing...... 

Paul

KJ/Kg instead of BTU/pound, and all that. What I can't figure out is why they asked for total system water consumption to be reported in tonnes. That was weird. I'm half convinced it was a typo.

I'll keep the derailment going...... The kJ/kg and water consumption are familiar, what kind of work do you do? I'm an HVAC engineer, and use those a lot in calculations.

Paul

It also helps if you do what I do, and buy a dozen stamps and drop them off in a postbox, WITHOUT dropping them off at the post shop where they ask stupid questions like "What's in these?"

This is some of the best advice yet, the less hands and eyes go over your envelope/package, the better!!

Paul

I keep them all and sell a few.

They are like kids and who sells their kids? I mean I thought them up (well Brian and others did) but I made them a reality and birthed them, I rasied them, I taught them how to work when they at first would not, I feed them 9v sometimes 18v if they are hungry, I've taught them how to play with others nicely and if not I put them in timeout or beat them senseless and finally they mature into nice little worker bees and share in my joy with other gear.

This, I like.... 

Maybe this is what you're looking for? Print with no scaling, stick on the 1590BB with some tape and drill away. Hole sizes are in mm, led and 9v might be a bit small as I like to use the small 9v jacks and led bezels.

Paul

I can whip somthing up fairly quickly, but need some more info: 1,2 or more stomps? Top- or sidemounted jacks? Preferred location of 9v jack and LED('s)?

Paul