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Messages - pickdropper

#2206
General Questions / Re: What Sort of Parts, etc.?
June 29, 2014, 03:34:10 PM
Quote from: marshallkiller91 on June 29, 2014, 03:28:21 PM
Quote from: lincolnic on June 29, 2014, 03:21:57 PM
Generally, the only difference between a beginner project and a Cowboy one is that the Cowboy builds will have more parts. As long as you take your time and check yourself as you work, there's no reason you can't start with something bigger.

If you're a little nervous about soldering in a tighter space, then maybe an easier project (with more room to work) wouldn't be a bad starting point.

I'm not nervous but I don't want to get too ahead of myself. I definitely would not start with a Low Rider  ;D

As far as part sourcing, I've noticed that I've had to convert values. I've also noticed that when I've seen 3.3M, it can represented differently. Is there an easier way to source parts kinda like how BYOC does it?

It's a steeper learning curve, but if you learn how to navigate Mouser, the floodgates will open for you.  But I am not sure there is anything that is going to be as simple as ordering a kit from BYOC.  The biggest adjustment is that it isn't uncommon to have to shop at more than 1 vendor to get everything exactly as you'd like.  I regularly order from Mouser, Small Bear and Pedal Parts Plus.  I sporadically order from Newark and Allied Electronics.
#2207
General Questions / Re: What Sort of Parts, etc.?
June 29, 2014, 03:22:57 PM
If you think you are going to spend a decent amount of time with DIY electronics of any kind, I'd recommend getting a nice soldering station from the get go.  There are two options:

1.)  Variable temperature - You adjust the temperature with a dial.  Most Weller and Hakko stations that folks around here use have this feature.

2.)  Tip determines temperature - Metcal/OKI irons are notable for this.  To change temperature, you change tip.  It's definitely not as convenient and the Metcal stuff is pricey, but it's stellar equipment and deals can be found on eBay.  Some Wellers have this as well, but I generally prefer the variable temp versions of the Weller stations.

I'd probably recommend option 1 for price reasons.  If you want to keep it under $100, many folks around here have Hakko FX-888D and love it.
#2208
It could stand to be cleaned, but I don't see any obvious problems.

It sounds like your diode was the wrong way at first.  Have you checked to see if that's shorted?
#2209
Build Reports / Re: Temple of the Righteous
June 28, 2014, 01:17:55 PM
Quote from: alanp on June 28, 2014, 07:44:51 AM

What is the artwork on the FuzzRighteous?

It's a piece by Pieter Bruegel called "The Fall of the Rebel Angels."
#2210
I can't tell with the diode.  Is the cathode facing the + marking on the PCB?

I would check for shorts.  The other thing you could do is try to clean some of the flux off with alcohol.  That probably isn't it, but it's a bit easier to diagnose a clean board. 
#2211
The first thing I would do is check the power section to make sure everything is correct:

1.)  Check that the diode is facing the correct direction

2.)  Check that the 100uF cap is facing the correct direction

3.)  Check that the regulator you are using has the correct pinout.

Most likely, there is a short somewhere and it is pulling too much current through R7.  A photo of the board might help.
#2212
Open Discussion / Re: Klone Science
June 27, 2014, 11:06:24 PM
Awesome.  That is fun stuff.
#2213
Open Discussion / Re: Klone Science
June 27, 2014, 10:30:46 PM

Quote from: JakeFuzz on June 27, 2014, 09:28:17 PM
There is a machine that I rent from another lab upstairs which costs 150K called a network analyzer  :o ridiculously expensive.

Is it a Rohde and Schwartz?
#2214
Open Discussion / Re: Klone Science
June 27, 2014, 08:45:08 PM
The klones look nice and all, but that Agilent scope looks AWESOME.

I'm guessing that isn't your home setup.  Those things are pricey.
#2215
Very nice, Dane.  Nice to see you posting again.
#2216
Build Reports / Re: 3Q
June 27, 2014, 04:15:18 PM

Quote from: chuckbuick on June 27, 2014, 02:35:02 PM
Thanks guys.  It looks like the electro question was answered but generally I use MLCC's from 1uf to 47uf.  Above that I either use tants or sometimes I'll put a couple MLCC's in parallel.  It does increase the cost considerably over electros but since they are one-off builds I can deal with a couple extra dollars in caps.

This basically sums up my exact approach as well.
#2217
Nice Jimi!  Welcome back!
#2218
Build Reports / Re: Function f(x) DuoVibe
June 26, 2014, 10:51:19 PM
Niiiiiice.  Dig the Tetris.
#2219
Build Reports / Re: Quantum Fuzz (NoMojo Fuzz)
June 26, 2014, 10:49:40 PM
That looks great!  Nice wiring, too!

I like the white knobs on black background and vice versa.
#2220

Quote from: GermanCdn on June 26, 2014, 04:22:14 PM
Quote from: pickdropper on June 26, 2014, 04:06:25 PM
He does seem to come across a bit poorly in interviews.

I've met him and he was perfectly nice in person.

I'll be honest, I picked up his live disc (the pop stuff from 12 years ago), and the guys got chops.  He probably suffered early from too much radio exposure on the "Body is a Wonderland" stuff.

But yeah, comes off a little d-baggy in interviews.  That, and most of us are probably jealous of his gear and his near endless string of hot female companions.

I have a bit of a different perspective because I know somebody who used to work for him and they knew him on a longer term basis.  Opinions change when people become real and not just an image presented to the public.  He treated the person I know quite well.

Prior to that, I shared more of the standard public opinion of him (mostly because of bad interviews).  I'm not the great Mayer defender here; some of the things he's said are pretty ridiculous.

As far as his music, I didn't care for the early stuff much.  He plays well live.  I've enjoyed the shows I've seen, but wouldn't call them life changing events.