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Messages - pickdropper

#2356
Build Reports / Re: Telefunken Sr.
May 11, 2014, 12:42:18 AM

Quote from: jubal81 on May 10, 2014, 11:44:38 PM
Quote from: pickdropper on May 10, 2014, 08:59:25 PM
Yeah, I use daughter boards for SPDT and DPDT toggles.  I'll post pics of those later.

Interesting. I've always found it easier to just solder to the lugs.

I am sure you aren't the only one who feels that way.  It is a minor improvement, but not totally necessary.

For me, it just keeps things a bit neater when I use it with the 3-wire ribbon cable.
#2357
Home Depot carries them.  Cody's right, they are 3/8" internal tooth lock washers.
#2358
Build Reports / Re: Telefunken Sr.
May 10, 2014, 08:59:25 PM
Yeah, I use daughter boards for SPDT and DPDT toggles.  I'll post pics of those later.
#2359
Build Reports / Re: Telefunken Sr.
May 10, 2014, 08:28:34 PM
Quote from: mattlee0037 on May 10, 2014, 08:25:15 PM
Super neat! How'd you later the boards or are they just sitting like that?

I mounted the lower one on the switches below and then I mounted the upper one on acrylic spacers and mounted those to the pots/switches below with double sided tape.  The pot was lower, so I needed yet another acrylic spacer to bring it to the height of the toggle switch.
#2360
Build Reports / Re: Telefunken Sr.
May 10, 2014, 07:40:47 PM
Quote from: muddyfox on May 10, 2014, 07:27:21 PM

Everything is just stupendously neat and it hurts my brain to look at that gutshot so lemme ask about the box.
Is it laser etched? If so, how did you get the green lettering?

Amazing build...

Some powder coat colors (especially green) don't completely etch away, even with a laser.  After 3 passes on the engraver, there was still a bit of green on the surface.  To be there until the end of time.......
#2361
Build Reports / Telefunken Sr.
May 10, 2014, 07:18:50 PM
This is a combination of a Tube Screamer with some of the common mods and an EP booster with the 9V/18V switch.  The EP booster board has a VB output, so the Tube Screamer also switches to 18V when the toggle is switched.  I put a short level toggle for the 9V/18V switch so it wouldn't be switched by accident while fiddling with the knobs.

There was just a tone of wiring on this one (or at least it seemed like it since everything was offboard).

I reused the Telefunken logo from my mini build, thus Telefunken Sr.







I had to layer the boards in order to get them to fit in the 125b

#2362
Open Discussion / Re: SMD projects
May 10, 2014, 02:19:23 PM
I was actually semi joking about it.  0201's are so small, that everything requires more care just to keep from losing the parts.

I enjoyed it as a challenge, but I wouldn't want to hand solder 0201's on any regular basis.  I got the impression from Mark that he isn't planning on doing those as a regular thing, either.

Next up, 01005.  No, not really.  :-)
#2363
Open Discussion / Re: SMD projects
May 10, 2014, 02:07:45 PM
For fun, try some of the smaller packages. 

I soldered up Chuckbuick's board with 0201 passives this week.  I had forgot how fun those are.  My experience was similar to the last time I soldered 0201s.  If they make it to the PCB, I can solder them no problem.  If I drop a resistor, it's gone.
#2364
Open Discussion / Re: SMD projects
May 10, 2014, 12:55:17 PM
We've got some extra NoMoJo Fuzz's.  Shoot me a PM and I'll send you one.  I'm feeling PIFy today.

#2365
In case anybody is still even remotely interested in the topic, I've gone a bit further down the rabbit hole.

Here is a copy of the previous ANSI standard that outlines the requirements for compliance.

http://ecee.colorado.edu/~ecen4517/materials/refs/standards/ANSI_C63.4-2003.pdf

The current standard is ANSI C63.4-2009, but it costs $141 and I wasn't ready to fork that out just yet.  It looks like the new standard has some new info on intentional radiators, so the unintentional transmitters may not have changed much.  This is a good starting point.
#2366
Here's a bit more info that I've found:

http://www.bureauveritas.com/wps/wcm/connect/31b53f004edb713e8d5fcd600bbc220b/FCC_Frequently_Asked_Questions_Aug10.pdf?MOD=AJPERES

For those who CBA to read the link, here are a couple of salient points:

"Battery power is not an exemption. Even a cell ph
one can broadcast for miles. Toys are not exempt
either. Toys can make more radio noise than other equipment because plastic or plush enclosures
do not shield the electronics like a metal box may.
Manufacturing run is not exempt either. Even if
you make and sell only a handful of devices,
it needs FCC equipment authorization. "

It also breaks down what types of testing are needed.  For a 9kHz device like a pedal, it is an unintentional radiator and only needs verification testing (basically, it needs to be checked to ensure that it passes emissions standards).  I assume that one could self-certify assuming there was access to the test equipment and an anechoic chamber.  I am not sure about that.  Unintentional radiator does seem to have the least stringent requirements.  Compare that to something like a Bluetooth device, where you have to do all of the testing, get certified and register with the FCC.

"The FCC has four main categories of equipment authorization:

Verification (unintentional radiators)

Declaration of Conformity (unintentional radiators that connect with PC's or television systems)

Certification (intentional radiators, radar detectors)

Registration (telephones & telecommunication devices)
Different authorization is needed for different types of equipment. Technical expertise is needed to
evaluate the design to ensure correct authorization. "

I'm still trying to figure out what the overall bottom line is to this.  I'm hoping I can find something that is reasonable as far as cost but qualifies from a regulatory perspective.
#2367
Quote from: GrindCustoms on May 08, 2014, 09:30:33 PM
Thanks for posting that Cody, Tayda might get some of my money again....

The next batch will all have a VGS of -0.1V OR -5V.  :-)

Roll the dice and make a wish.
#2368
This is a repost from the other thread, but these are my measurements of one batch of MMBF5458 (SMT) and a batch each of 2n5457 and 2n5952 through-hole.  The SMT are from Mouser, and the other JFETs are older Fairchilds as part of a large batch of transistors a couple of years ago.  I doubt they came from Tayda.

MMBF5458 (n=98)     
Avg VGS   -1.84 mV
Min    -2.1   mV
Max   -1.6   mV
STDev    0.1107827   
     
2n5457 (n=72)     
Avg VGS    -1.28 mV
Min   -1.63    mV
Max   -0.97    mV
STDev 0.169580168   
     
2n5952 (n=99)     
Avg VGS   -2.28 mV
Min   -2.59    mV
Max   -1.78 mV
StDev 0.143183537   
#2369
Quote from: midwayfair on May 08, 2014, 11:46:34 AM
Quote from: pickdropper on May 08, 2014, 05:01:39 AM
I think you won the Tayda lottery.  Those all look OK.

They are all within tolerance, that's true ... it's a small sample, but I noticed that they are mostly at the far ends of the bell curve. EDIT: And they weren't always -- before the FETs went out of production, they had plenty that were good. I made tons of matched sets for phasers that were evenly and properly distributed.

Thanks for the test results, Cody. :)

I think within a given batch that might be true, but the reason why those FETs always had tolerances you could drive a truck through is because the process was somewhat variable.  If Cody feels like taking a larger sample, I have measured a bunch of FETs.  I posted the results from my testing a SMT FETs on here a while back.
#2370
Yeah, planning is key.

- Figure out where you generally want the individual effects to go in the box.
- Mock it up with hardware to make sure nothing interferes
- Drill the box, or emulate the box with a piece of cardboard or wood
- Mount the circuits and measure out the wire runs one at a time.

It really helps if you go slow and plan.  I suspect that I build slower than most folks, so there are obviously faster ways of doing it that still yield good results.