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That's a good idea.  Please let me know if that solves it or not.

I probably should make a wiring diagram for that one since it is not the standard True Bypass wiring.  It is, however, the standard Klon wiring.

From what I can see, you wired it right.  Did you wire the ground connection to the input jack?  I assume you did, but I don't see it listed below.

Pictures of the 3PDT switch might help as well.

Also, is there any possibility that the 68k are a different value, like 68 ohms or 680 ohms?

I've only used their drilling services once (for a BYOC build).  I had the mill the footswitch holes 0.020" or 0.030" in order to fit the board in.  I think they were done very quickly with a unibit as well as the metal was basically torn up and raised to the point that the nuts on top wouldn't screw down.  I was able to eventually deburr it, but I probably spent more time cleaning it up than I would have drilling it in the first place.

To their credit, they sent me a replacement enclosure and let me keep the one I reworked. 

PPP powder coating is great! I've only ever had one enclosure with a problem and they promptly replaced it, taking my word that the problem came from their end. I've never had chips and I don't mask around holes when I drill. I never get swirl from the shavings. That tells me their powder coat is tough.

Yeah, I've probably used 20x more enclosures from PPP and none have chipped yet.  At some point it will probably happen, but it will be the first in a very large sample.

I know somebody who can proof read it and tell us all the areas in which we are wrong.   

I had a lot of chipping issues with the powder coat , which is something I don't run into with PPP finishes.  To date , I've only had one Mammoth enclosure that hasn't chipped, even with light use.

Wow, that is one of the nicest builds I've seen.

Soldering iron fight!

I haven't used Mammoth's screen printing service, but I had so many issues with the quality of their powder coat that I stopped buying from them. 

Yeah, I actually have multiple acrylic test boxes.  I can take some updated pics later.

I've posted a couple of them in the past.  One is called "the breadbox" and the other is "the puzzle box."

Both of those have colored acrylic.  I'll take photos of the clear one later tonight or tomorrow.

Yeah, there is a lot you can do with acrylic .

Since you have obviously have access to some good tools, check out if you can get a UV curing light.  UV based adhesives are nice with acrylic as they are clearer than cyanoacrylates (no blooming) and setup much much faster than epoxy.  Fast cure epoxy works but usually has a yellowish tint that doesn't look very good.  The optically clear epoxies look better for acrylic but have a long setup time.

I really like the artwork on this one.  Good job picking a color with great contrast, too.

That looks nice, Ben.  Great execution.

On a related note, I've been using finger joint acrylic boxes for a while for test rigs.  I highly recommend it.  If you wire a detachable header to the switch, you can swap top plates out with various pot/switch mounting schemes.  It works really well.  I even added a top plate with a 4-way spring speaker terminal for when I want to quick check a build. 

I do wish I had found out about the box generating site earlier.  One of my co-workers showed it to me a while back, after I had painstakingly laid out all of the box dimensions and mating finger joints in Illustrator.  Bummer.

I think this could be solved by making a smaller order. An order of 30-40 dollars is really only 20-30 euros. At that point, the order being small, I'm not sure that VAT comes into effect, and you might not worry about the cost as much.

Jacob

This seems like really good advice to me.

You can also send your cart to somebody (or yourself) or you can create a project for it.  But yeah, I've been caught by the cart in the cookies scenario, too.