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Hi Ettore,

you didnt say if its for acoustic or electric guitar.
For acoustic you wont need a cabsim in front, maybe an EQ.
For electric its both.

Built something for live? Yes : http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=18394.0

best
Thomas

Thats because the initial circuit is build with calculated ot default values -which is what is in the schematic.

Afterwards the circuit is tweaked to work better/sound better - thats what is in the BOM.

The BOM is whats in the lead when it comes to,values.

There are two different things.

1) the led is directly connected to the 6v regulator, so the voltage multiplier has nothing to do with it.
Is your psu strong enough to power it?

2) the multiplied voltage can be meassured after the last multiplier diode. It should be appx 60 v

This is looking fantastic!

Very cool build!

Great you got it going. First buildof the inside driver with Tube LED

Very nice nice build!

Awesome again. What's up with that red IC?

Good guess. I color them if I make them in a batch to know what it is .-)

Very cool paintjob!

The red painted ICs of relay board is just what Thomas does for some reason, maybe he can chirp in on the deeper meaning of that?
Maybe red ICs are simply faster? Maybe Thomas works on a red cardtable too then? Legends are born...

Should I really lift the curtain and expose the very secret of those red chips?

Yes, I confess: electrons are travelling faster when they are exposed to this red color 
Maybe it much simpler and when I was doing 50 chips at once I just used a spraycan to mark them programmed?

No, I am sure its the electrons ...

I'm building a box for a guy that wants to have the option to have a stomp arbitrarily far away from the box. What are the options there? Obviously planning on a switched contact jack and assuming the common bypass system would be out. I can see how it could be done with relay switching easily. Could it be done with 1 cable if optical bypass is used? Are there other options?

Optical bypass would be vodoo-style like Joshs Optotron? You need a 2PDT for this.
Almost all relay switching tha have a momentary switch to ground would work.
Depending on cable length you may need additional filters to avoid unwanted switching by interferring RF.
And at least a protection diode to keep your uC alive when plugging in wrong cables :-)

Keep it on the breadboard and just draw a schematic.
I'll make that PCB and send it to you to compare to the breadboard circuit 

Thats an outstanding piece of work!

Great build. I really like this minature build of yours.

I never used the 9mm helper boards with Tayda pots like this. I will remember it.

Thats a great roadmap Brian.
I really am impressed with the number of projects you do and the quality of them.

I started to sell Boards together with hard-to-source parts quite some time ago and this is easy for me. Only a stack of few parts in quantities and they are quick to pack and ship.

On the other hand I started to sell kits of some of my switching solutions and I am shipping full kits to my prototypers. Thats really a tough job. Not only do you need quite a lot of parts in numbers -it takes a lot of time to put the kits together and quality assure them.
Think twice before you do that :-)

I checked for the documentation on my SE20, but all I've got is the manual which is of no use.  I have to fix the reverb on mine, so if you find the schem, let me know.

Just so you know, the SE20 only has two channels - Kardashian (dirty even though it claims to be clean) and Aguilera (Dirrtierrrr then even you'd expect).  And it's loud for a 20 watt.  Like ear splitting loud.

I have two pages I found on the net. It just has some information as which tube is which and about biasing. let me know if you need it :-)
I mailed PRS for the schematic. Maybe they give it to me as it is discontinued :-)

As you have one, may I ask a few questions?
I found that both channels but especially the clean one do have a nasty distorted clipping. Like a crackling/fizzing kind of sound. Thats something yours has as well?
The reverb sounds really metallic and is of no real use for most of the pot settings. It sounds ugly to my ears.
And the lead channel has far too much bass for my taste.

I shot it from a dealer who managed to spill epoxy all over the enclosure.
I totally disassembled it and ripped the box of all its tolex.
Ordered new tolex and will build it from there.

Not sure how you want to fix the reverb but if you just want to replace it its easy.
=>Take rear metalpiece off. unplug the reverb jacks. remove chassis. use screwdriver to open the folded pocket and remove reverb unit.
Reverb is Accutronics/Belton BS3AB2A1B

Great pedal and very nice demo!

I shot a PRS SE 2 Channel on evilBay and it could need some rework soundwise.

Does anyone have a schematic by chance?