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I did a layout of the RAH circuit and am not getting signal past the gate of Q1. Here is my scheme and layout. Anyone?

I have found 4 of 30 boards that have a manufacturer error. If you bought a BMP board from me labeled "Little Miss Muffet" and are only getting bypass signal, lug 2 of the volume/level pot is grounded. You need to disconnect  the middle leg of the pot from the board completely and wire it directly to the "Output" on you 3PDT. Shoot me a PM if this doesn't make sense and I'll walk you through it. Sorry if this affects anyone.

Just a plug for a friend on the other side of the pond who does some really quality stuff...

"Now taking orders for custom built, etched pedals: Tone Benders [1, 1.5, 2, 3, Vox] Fuzz Face, Selmer BuzzTone, Burns Buzzaround, Maestro."

Check him out on Facebook

https://www.facebook.com/facelessfx

I would like to start sharing some projects and can't figure out how to add build docs to my projects. Can someone help me out? Thanks! 

Finished a small batch of a design I made from modifying a power boost circuit, adding a charge pump on a toggle, and adding clipping options. Tons of fun! PPP UV printing for the enclosures. A good friend did the demo videos

https://reverb.com/item/218584-razorback-pedals-p-b-black

Populaed a Nucleon Super Fuzz and I get no signal. I probed it and found the signal loss is between lugs 2 and 3 of the 50kb Expander Pot. Bad Pot? Nope, switched it out and same results. Re-Flowed solder joints, same result. Here are my voltages

Q1: C 144.2mv / B 0.684v / E 5.33v
Q2: C 4.79v / B 5.37v / E 9.15v
Q3: C .3mv / B .1mv / E 9.08v
Q4: C .1mv / B .629v / E 15.8mv
Q5: Unstable

 

Can anyone help explain how to use artwork from Inkscape to get UV printed by PPP? They have requirements that I'm not sure I understand (must be a CMYK file, and MUST BE VECTORED, and not flattened). Thanks! 

I'm looking for a good place to get a small run of custom printed enclosures. Anyone have a good experience with a company? I can't get Mammoth to reply to e-mails so I've ruled them out. I sent a very simple inquiry along with my design and got an email ten days later saying it was received by the wrong guy and being forwarded to the right guy. Six days later and still no response. I even sent an email saying I really wanted to order the enclosures and wanted to know if my design was ok so I could place the order (Take my money!) Still no answer. Me + Mammoth = Done.

Rocked it before I boxed it and it was working fine. It is lit up and the intensity changes with the trim pot but it is staying lit and not pulsing. Haven't had a chance to run through troubleshooting yet. Anyone else run into this?

https://reverb.com/item/45234-reverb-clip-on-tuner

It looks like this would be do-able but the schematic for the FD2 gets confusing for me with the three way toggle. I don't want the boost just the green channel. Anyone care to lend a hand?

Built a schoon toon into a BMP circuit. Verified the BMP worked prior to hooking up the schoon toon. Got everything all wired up and I get clean signal passed when the pedal is switched on and when off. When engaged the LED is working. When engaged, with the blend turned all the way down, the volume control works. Double checked all of my wiring and it ll looks good. Any ideas?

Been trouble shooting an Aquaboy DX and think my MN3005's may be fake. Im not ruling out another problem just yet so I would like to have these verified as good or bad. I will pay shipping of course.

Been beating my head over this one. Took my time and made sure all component values were correct, etc, etc. So I get clean signal passing through the circuit but no delay. Per the troubleshooting in the build docs, audio probe at pin 7 of IC2 passes signal, Pin 7 of IC3 passes signal and BBD jumpers are set correctly. Also the build DOC states that there should be power to pin 1 and ground to pin 5 of the MN3005. Looking at a data sheet it looks like it should be ground on pin 1 and power to pin 5 (?).  Here are my voltages

LF353N IC1
1. 7.46     8. 14.94
2. 7.46     7. 7.45
3. 7.45     6. 7.46
4. 1.6mv   5. 7.45

NE570N IC2
1. 1.084    16. 0.780
2. 1.806    15. 1.806
3. 1.806    14. 1.806
4. 3.9mv   13. 1.806
5. 1.8       12. 1.806
6. 1.805    11. 4.72
7. 6.63     10. 4.72
8. 1.8       9. 1.806

MN3005 IC3
1. 9.22   8. 8.56
2. 5.1     7. 3.59
3. 7.21    6. 4.9
4. 7.17    5. 5.7mv

MN3101 IC5
1. 9.23     8. 4.5
2. 4.9       7. 4.67
3. 8.0mv   6. 4.46
4. 5.10      5. 4.48

TL062CN IC6
1. Unstable   8. 14.94
2. Unstable   7. Unstable
3. Unstable   6. Unstable
4. 1.3mv      5. Unstable

Any ideas folks?

So I used a green bean board to plug in the specs from the SRV special. It pushes a faint signal (very quiet signal, I have to crank the amp to 9 really hear anything and it still isn't much) that sounds terribly compressed. When I adjust the pots I get all kinds of old school Atari noises. Traced through it a couple times and it looks good but something is wrong. Here are my voltages. I'll get pictures up as soon as I can.

IC - JRC4558D
1. 8.49
2. 8.51
3. 8.45
4. 0.00
5. 8.45
6. 8.49
7. 8.46
8. 9.14

Q1

8.46, 8.45, 9.15

Q2

8.43, 8.43, 9.15

Fishy eh?

Also to keep with the SRV Special Schematic I did the following

C2 jumper
R5 omit
C3 omit
C8 jumper
C9 jumper
R15 jumper

along with the value changes that applied
here is the schem I used

http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/ulysses/ulysses_layouts/ulysses_ts_srv_special/matsumin_ts_srv_special_schem.gif.html?g2_imageViewsIndex=1

So I've noticed Madbean now offers a fuzz, vibe, and octavia. Captain Coconut anyone?

Anyone ever use Janeh2100 for MN3005's? wandering if they are legit. Looks to have no bad feedback for other mn3005's they have sold.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-OEM-MN3005-IC-Chips-4096-STAGE-LONG-DELAY-BBD-ICs-/330540045040?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4cf5b8d2f0

Something that I had been dreaming up for a long time and finally got around to building it. Pretty self explanatory as it is a 4 in 1 Muff clone which includes the Triangle, Ram's Head, Civil War, and Green Russian. Spent a lot of time studying the circuits and components off various sites and even went as far as to track down some old 430pf ceramic disc capacitors for the Civil War. Basically it's one giant etched PCB with all four circuits linked together. each circuit is selected via the rotary knob on the left and each circuit has it's own 3mm green LED to identify which version is engaged. Not practical but super fun. I'm also thinking about adding in a clean blend and tone bypass. Can't take too much credit for this as it is built from the knowledge that I would have never had if not for this site and it's great members! Thanks all 

Figured I'd help out and save everyone some searching  

http://www.hobbyengineering.com/H4503.html