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I have a friend with a TS808 reissue and the switch crapped out. He wants it modded to true bypass without paying an arm and a leg to Analogman or Keeley.  Anyone know how to bypass the buffer and wire in a true bypass switch? Couldn't find anything helpful searching around GeoFX and such.

Anyone know of any DIY Delay pedals with a hold feature like the Jam Pedals Delay Llama?
http://www.musicradar.com/gear/guitars/fx/delay/delay-llama-plus-546797

Great idea applause to Brian Wampler

http://www.ebay.com/sch/indyguitarist-guitartone/m.html?item=110992483011&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562

I would like to build a switch that will engage switch between the gain and clean channels of two separate amps at the same time.  Will this work?

I got my email from Analogman today saying I'm up for a KOT. I don't want one anymore and figured I'd offer it up here in case someone has been wanting one. Shoot me a PM if interested or I will just pass on it in seven days. 

Would it be possible to put four effects in one enclosure and switch between them with a rotary switch instead of four stomp switches?

So I found a tagboard layout for the TS808HW and thought I'd give it a try.  I think I have all of the values figured out but I'm not sure about the wiring for the footswitch.  Anyone able to help out?

A friend asked me to take a look at his Jekyll and Hyde pedal because the footswitches crapped out.  He originally bought it from a pawn shop and it was obvious that someone had already done a half assed attempt at repairing or changing the switches based on the giant globs of solder on the terminals.  Anyway...I desoldered the switches and this is what it looks like now.  Looks like the pads had been pulled up prior because I didn't have any in my solder sucker. Will I have issues resoldering in new switches? I don't know if the pad/traces are gone completely or if they are there and rusted? I plan on just soldering new ones in the best I can and if there is no connection I will run hookup wire to the next pad.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/archipelagoglass2010/m.html?item=160893480537&pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item2575ffae59&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562

Both sound rrreeeallllyyy good! Kingslayer may just be my new favorite OD. Brian really knocked it out of the park. Used 3mm LEDs, 1n34a's, and asymmetrical BAT46's. RAH sounds best through humbuckers and has a great Zep sound. No knobs on the Kingslayer yet, still undecided.

A friend wanted a compressor so I made a couple for him to pick from. An Engineers Thumb (Special thanks to Jon P for helping get this one up and running) and a Keeley Style four knob. Both sound really good and make me want to play some Brad Paisley!

So I sold an original green russian big muff on ebay and shipped it the same as I always do.  With the rise in  postal prices I skipped confirmation and insurance. The buyer is now saying he never received it.  Everything else I shipped that day got where it was going on time.  His response when he did not receive it seemed strange.  Instead of asking if I shipped it yet or why he had not received it he said, I haven't received the pedal yet.  If it's not here in 30 days, I will need a refund.  Sounds really legit huh.  Anyway...looks like I'm on the hook for $280.  Please!!!! Get a confirmation and insurance if you ship on EvilBay! 

Getting no signal from my 1590a cupcake. When I hook it up through my testing rig it's fine, so I think it has something to do with the jacks.  These are the Neutrik jacks from Mouser that Brian recommended in the baby build guide.

I built this Engineers Thumb and am not getting an output signal.  When tracing the signal it appears to end at the 3rd pin on both TL072's.  I tried different chips to rule out a bad chip and get the same results.
Voltages are as follows:

IC1: 1: 8.49 2: 8.49 3: 8.48 4: 8.87 5: 8.70 6: 8.50 7: 8.50 8: 9.37

IC2: 1: 8.19 2: 8.46 3: 8.48 4: 8.87 5: 8.47 6: 8.49 7: 8.15 8: 9.38

IC3: 1-8: 8.42,8.43,8.5,8.5,8.49,8.87,1.34,8.4
     9-16: 8.39,1.338,8.47,8.42,7.93,7.93,8.44,8.41

Q1: C:8.42 B:8.16 E:8.49

These are my first builds that I have made from etch to box! It really is satisfying when you start with a blank copper board and end up with the finished product! Thanks to everyone on this forum for all of your knowledge and assistance through the process, especially Brian for making these layouts and feeding the addiction!

So I built two retrogrades, one for myself and one for a friend.  As far as I can tell they are identical with the exception of the 1n34a diodes.  One has a very nice pronounced octave and the other does not.  Could this be caused by using different 1n34a's?

Anybody notice the Kingslayer build Docs are up?...Giggity! 

If you do it so often that your wife recognizes schematics and brings you home this shirt after she went shopping....

I'm really happy how this turned out! Let me know what you think