Messages

Nice color combo.

I don't know how you keep track of the knobs on the ones you build.

yeah i have a couple of the Alpha DPDT switches kicking around, looks like i'll have to grab some of the 1776 boards.

Alpha DPDT, and 1776's optical bypass. I haven't heard a pop since I started using it.

Jon, do these fit in the 1590A enclosures?

Not unless you're more clever than I am, unfortunately. Maybe for very very small PCBs.

The term you need is "force sensitive resistor." I found them on google shopping for about $7.

Most, if not all, of them would decrease resistance when you push down, and are the highest resistance at idle, since they work by bringing two materials closer together. And you can't do a voltage divider. So keep those limitations in mind for what you want to use them for.

I like the way Justin Sandercoe teaches. Super positive and friendly dude with an enormous catalog of lessons from beginner to advanced. Best thing is it is basically all FREE.

He does accept donations and also has some lesson books for sale which I have bought some.

http://www.justinguitar.com/

This is where I go when I want to work on ... basically anything. Even the beginner lessons are worth your time.

Alpha DPDT, and 1776's optical bypass. I haven't heard a pop since I started using it.

Nice to see another build of this one.

I'm also curious how you did the LED. It looks really cool and would be a nice change of pace from a bezel once in a while.

Since two SHO's are already capable of damaging an amp

Paul, you should know better than to perpetuate nonsense like this. There is no possible way you will damage an amp with the volume output of a booster running on 9V, 18V, split rail 9/-9, 18/-9, 18/-18, or even 120V (tube).

Two SHOs in series does not give more volume boost than 27dB in any case; one will overdrive the other. A single SHO already coaxes the maximum gain out of a MOSFET and it will hit the power rails at 27dB, which is why they don't sound clean.

Slow down, guys.

No one asked the OP what circuit he was working with.

There are multiple ways the LED gets driven, not all of which are a connection to ground.

If it's not a connection to ground, then you will not be able to wire it through the 3PDT PCB easily.

New giant box of parts from Small Bear Electronics Day!

Perhaps I will get to open it at some point ... it's currently being used by someone else.



There's a bunch of storage, a ton of LDRs and photocells to test for the Blue Warbler re-design, a ton of pots and resistors ...

And an invoice with an embarrassingly large number next to "total." I've been putting off this order for probably 8 months, though ...

this thing sounds insane. Very trippy.

Mr Patton, you nailed it. R22 was 100k not 10k as intended. Although I used a DM on all resistors during assembly I obviously took a wrong reading. So much for populating the board slowly and carefully! The circuit works like a champ now. Many many thanks for your expertise.

woohoo! Glad you got it working. It's certainly an awesome muff variant.

I used all the listed values on the spreadsheet. No mods just C10 on offboard wiring (in anticipaton of the tone switch)
I am getting a blast of sound when guitar strings are plucked  then it decays to nothing. Transistors are BC550cbu so pinouts are reversed. trannies and diodes are socketed. checked all diodes and cap C14 for polarity issues.
I reflowed solder on all the pads hoping to remedy a cold joint. Voltage from a 9 volt battery reads 8.91 at the board. Here are the transistor measurements:
Q1    E 28.3 mv
        B .60 mv
        C 3.71 V
Q2    E 27.7 mv
        B .595 mv
        C 5.78 V
Q3    E  26.8 mv
        B .593 V
        C 3.60V
Q4    E .274 V
        B .81 V
        C .273 V   
Hope someone can point me in the right direction. I populated the board carefully and slowly, so I would be surprised if parts are switched somewhere.
Thanks all!

Q4 is insanely low on the collector. You've got something wrong there. That low voltage is also causing your gating. It's possible you've mixed up R21 and R22 since they're right next to each other, and mixing them up would actually probably get that voltage.

Also, it's a good idea to stick to one tech help thread per build so that people don't post conflicting advice or duplicate efforts to help.

This one's super awesome. Also, your guts have improved approximately 300%.

I'm worried by how much air must have been stored inside that horse to produce an expellation so large.

Great looking builds.