Messages

I don't usually gush over klones, but this one is exceptionally well-done. Your granny will be super pleased with it, I'm sure.

Either is fine.

I didn't read the article yet....did they detect the waves with LIGO? (I'm a total physics nerd. Was thinking about getting a Feynman tattoo....lol)

Curt.

BICEP2 in Antarctica.

If anyone's on REDDIT, there's a really big discussion thread. http://www.reddit.com/r/askscience/comments/20n0zn/official_askscience_inflation_announcement/

I'd also expect an AMA as soon as the AskScience or Science mods are able to get one of the people involved.

Once again:

post
the
schematic
of
the
pedal
you
are
discussing

For one thing, you'll probably find the answer to your question on the schematic.

For another thing, no one wants to have to back-trace a vero layout.

If you don't know how to read schematics, go read this:
http://www.beavisaudio.com/techpages/SchematicToReality/

If you don't understand the notes on the layout you posted, it's from Tagboard effects, and there are multiple links at the top of their page that detail their notation and the offboard wiring.

Nothing to do with pedals, but basically this discovery is one of the most important discoveries in physics in decades; it's on par with the Higgs boson to say the least and provides evidence for Inflation Theory, which solves some of the biggest problems in trying to figure out how the Big Bang got so, well, Big.

Here's a NYT article about it:
http://www.nytimes.com/2014/03/18/science/space/detection-of-waves-in-space-buttresses-landmark-theory-of-big-bang.html?ref=science&_r=1

Hey dudes. I am a lawyer. You should call a lawyer in his town and have him send a letter. Or sue him in your town, get a judgement and send it to a lawyer in fl to have him collect on it.

I am not a lawyer, but I would guess that getting a local attorney and an attorney in FL involved would cost more than the damages ($400). Somebody who is tight on cash probably can't afford two lawyers.

I'd love to hear Jon's take on this, since he works for law-mongers. 

Recovery would most likely be contingency. One of the guys in my office is barred in FL. Matt, PM me if you want some contact info.

You can do it without an LED. Just use the middle and righthand rows on the madbean standard wiring diagram as an example for your DPDT and you can put it in series with the fuzz. "Output jack" from one effect goes in place of the "input jack" from the other.

However, I highly recommend testing this on a breadboard or testing rig first if you haven't already, because I can't think of any combination of these two circuits that would be really useful. The Mosrite already has an absolutely massive amount of gain (many people mod their build so it has LESS gain), and it's also extremely loud (unity is like 10:00), so I'm not really sure where you would want the boost.

One thing I wish Smallbear did was group the pots and allow for the item discounts on the pots. I hate that the price break kicks in at X pots, when I might need 20 of the B taper, and 10 of the C taper, and 30 of the A taper... I'd like to get the 50 pot price break because I'm getting 60 pots, not the 10/25 pot price break on each type.

Jacob

You'll get that on A and B tapers.

Bleary Eyes: I'm pretty sure Smallbear carries every pot value and taper I've ever seen used in a guitar pedal and then some.

Stomptown, thanks for the honest comparison. I did end up going with Smallbear for the pots, but it's good to know that the Tayda pots will be mostly indistinguishable in the future if I need one of the most common values and I'm ordering from them.

Jon, I've got continuity between the Q1C and Q2B, but no continuity to ground from Q1C.

Oh jeez, I'm sorry, I meant the emitter, not the collector.

The Tayda solder lug Alpha pots are definitely made from a different/cheaper material. They seem to use the same base as their knurled shaft Alphas, e.g. different nut, the brown part is made from a lighter material, plus they have the plastic cover.

The PCB mounted pots are the same as everywhere else though.

Interesting. I like the SB ones and prefer how they feel compared with the split shaft ones, so I think I'll stick with SB despite the price. Thanks!

They're both listed as Alpha, I just want to know if they're the same thing.

Any other mosfets besides the 7000 that work well?

I prefer the BS170. They are quieter when used as amplifiers. Get both though and decide which one you prefer. Their Fv are different.

Put your multimeter on its continuity setting (beep).

Check for continuity to ground on the [edit: emitter*] of Q1, and check that the base of Q2 is connected directly to the collector of Q1.

*I'm a derp.

Mainly I'm looking for specific component names  -- what are your go-to favorites? If you're doing si or germ, what's your favorite?

I've have to know the circuit in question to give specifics. I wouldn't get hung up on specific component names. Just worry about cost, availability, and Fv.

You can get a ton of millage out of never buying anything except the following:

Ge
1N270 (alt: D9E, Russian, which is cheaper, or any number of other russian detector diodes) = Fv .25-.30
1N34A (these are common, but get the from a reliable source) = Fv .35

Schottky
1N60P (super cheap) = Fv .2-.25v
1N5817 (consistent, good for revere polarity and envelopes) = Fv ~.2
BAT41 (real ones ... get them from a reliable source) = Fv .35V (I may be wrong and it may be BAT43)

Generic silicon
1N4001 = Fv .5
1N4148/1N914 (same thing) = Fv .6

LED
Red, Green, and Blue

Zener
3.3V (asymmetrical silicon clipping with one diode)
4.7V (crude 1/2 supply voltage)
9.1V/12V (input voltage clamps)

I see a few problems.

Finally, I noticed the Fuzz and Volume knobs have no effect on the guitar tone to the amp; it just sounds like a bypass signal.  Urggh!

1) The volume pot is a voltage divider at the end of the circuit -- even if your signal isn't getting amplified, the volume pot should affect the signal level.

2) Check the schematic. The emitter of Q1 is connected directly to ground. How, then, can you have positive voltage on it?

3) You got as much as +3V when you adjusted the trimmer, so the trimmer is working and voltage is flowing to and probably through Q2. Check your battery disconnected from the circuit. You're only getting 6V at the board input. The circuit will still work at that voltage, but it's something that you should fix, and it's certainly not going to sound right at that voltage.