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Whoa!  Love that graphic!   

+1!

Dude, you are just churning them out! Very impressive stuff overall.

the schematic is blury

Search circuit name, go to images, click "more" under the search box, sort by black and white and resolution.

Also, there's no need to upload an image to the Madbean board, which has limited bandwidth and storage, when you are using a picture of a layout that is hosted on a well-travelled site like Tagboard Effects. Use the image tags. If you don't know the coding necessary, click on the "Help" button just under your profile picture, and it has a menu for everything you could need for the coding used on this forum software.

Thanks for all the pics, Gledison.

I really like the enclosure on the Joyo Juicer.

There are some very durable spray finishes from automotive stuff, like truck bed liner.

This is every clipping option that might make a noticeable difference in a circuit capable of generating a signal large enough to drive all of them. This is a lot of options and not even all of these are going to be noticeable in a typical circuit.
1. ge/ge
2. Ge/si
3. si/si
5. single MOSFET
4. led/si
5. led/led
7. MOSFET <-> MOSFET [For clarification, these are in series, connected at the sources]
8. Lifted
9. Any particular option above + a series resistor (softens clipping)
10. Any particular option above + a series capacitor (frequency-specific clipping)

I cover the baseplate.

The reason is partly that I don't know what it's going to end up on. Different boards might have the hook side in different places.

It really shouldn't be subtle at all. It should have a pretty profound impact on the distortion content for one thing. I'm going to make my usual guess: check if you used an 820K instead of 820R for R6.

Great work! Super tidy inside, I loled at the graphic, and the molex express connect is a cool idea.

Midway, your idea for placing a resistor between the first emitter and ground has me thinking... Could I put a mod like that on a footswitch?? Or would it cause a loud pop when I engaged it? That could be a very useful mod.. Hmmm..

It will pop. Even the "safe" way of grounding the emitter for a boost I've found will pop sometimes. (Check madbean's lavache for the "safe" way to do that sort of boost.) Adjusting the emitter of Q1 is more a way of handling higher gain modern transistors than anything.

I goggled "Lovepedal Woodrow schematic" and found a dozen images for the schematic. When you discuss a circuit for modification, please post the layout and schematic you built from. Otherwise we might be talking about different things.



Anyway, simplest way: remove the 330R from the emitter of the transistor. Replace it with a 1KC pot. Done. This gain pot will make a scratching noise when you move it. That's bad. We can do better.

If you want to make a better gain control, instead connect the pot as follows:

1
2
3

1: Connects to ground.
2: Connects to the + side of the 47uF capacitor. The other (negative) side of the capacitor connects to ground.
3: Connects to the transistor's emitter.

This is the gain control in a fuzz face. There is a constant 1K of resistance between the emitter and ground. At fully CCW, lugs 2 and 3 are shorted, so the 47uF capacitor is also out of the circuit. As you turn the pot CW, the cap moves toward the emitter and the AC gain for all frequencies above something like 50Hz are increased.

The companion has a severe mid scoop, so if you're going to put a booster into it, consider something with lots of midrange. A rangemaster with an adjustable cap should be fine. But honestly, the companion is so out of control already that I can't see adding gain in front. (Heck, putting a resistor between the first emitter and ground is a sensible modification to make it less insane.)

Instead, I'd think about some sort of strong filter effect either before or after. Something like a stuck wah sound could be very, very interesting either before or after, or you could pair it with an envelope filter for a fuzz wah sound that will also smooth the edges off the fuzz.

The OSH Park thread is the closest to what you're asking for, and that thread was a really good idea.

I won't speculate on the reasons for excluding some others or even the reasons for including the ones that are already there, but I think Brian having invited four people (JMK, 1776, TH Custom, and Haberdasher) now to have direct links and/or sub forums is pretty darned generous considering MBP is his livelihood. They don't carry projects that overlap with him or each other (and even the occasional differently modified vintage designs they have in common aren't just component changes), and most of their projects are either updates of old (i.e., not clones of boutique pedals) or DIY-sourced designs.

I will point out that most of the PCBs sold in the b/s/t lounge are group buys. It could get confusing to manage a thread when someone stops having things for sale.

Oh, I forgot to mention: some more expensive LDRs are hermetically sealed, which may help keep them going longer.

Also, I nominate "I am not a scientist, so" as the proper reply, perhaps in acronym form, for late night speculative posts about chemical reactions.

I spoke with Dan Coggins (Lovetone / Dinosaural) and he figures it was likely moisture ingress, and that LDRs can fail by that method.

anyone else?

Cadmium sulfide is not water soluble, so you need to add something else to the mix. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cadmium_sulfide

I am not a scientist, but this is my guess as to one way this can happen: cadmium sulfide, when exposed to light, water, and air, can produce cadmium sulfate. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cadmium_sulfate

However, this article suggests that specifically ultraviolet light is the bogey: http://www.rsc.org/chemistryworld/2013/04/cadmium-sulfide-podcast