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Brian, I can mail you a Bearhug V2 to use. Like, tomorrow morning. Would it get to you in time?

Ok so I cant post the schematic as its the wrong file type and the output makes a loud cracking fuzzy buzzing noise

Just post a link to the schematic.

Does your guitar signal make it through, or you just hear the crackling noise all the time?

Yeah its in all settings. Modern makes it a bit harsher, but i think that is due to having a higher output. Crap im going to have to figure out how to get my old oscilloscope going again 

I don't think an oscilaliscope is needed, just an audio probe.

Is it super loud? Or normal volume with the volume almost all the way up?

We need the layout you used. Pics of the other side of the board will also be helpful.

Measure voltages at the power input, the collector of Q1, and the base of Q1. Check continuity between all parts against the schematic.

"Didn't work" is also not very specific. Do you get no sound, quiet sound, bad sound, etc.?

The typical 1N4001 in parallel with the power rails does the job, but it's far from perfect. I prefer a schottky diode in series with the positive rail. This provides the same reverse-polarity protection as the other method, but it won't cause either the DC wall wart or the diode to die.

This makes up for the 1590A hipsters crack in the other thread.

The whole "1590A craze" is really just a fad. Like hipsters and their PBR, this too shall pass. 

Scumbag!



FWIW, there's only one 1590A on my main pedal board, and I don't have to stomp on it because it's always on.

Damn convenient for storing as many as possible on the toy shelf, though!

Is it in all settings (vintage, modern, chorus, and vibe)? Some settings are brighter than others, but I wouldn't call any of them "insane." Is the volume normal otherwise?

You're going to have to bust out the audio probe and figure out where it's going wonky.

Fantastic. I'm really interested in hearing it ... I was thinking of building a delay with a blue warbler type effect on the repeats one of these days, so it'll be cool to hear what a phasing effect sounds like as modulation.

Beautiful build as always.

No tiny guitar yet.  I guess that comes next.  Considering how poorly I play my mandolin, I don't have a lot of hope for it.   ;-p

I humbly submit this as the solution to your problem:

http://eastwoodguitars.com/index.php/eastwood-guitars/all-eastwood-guitars/solid-body-guitars/item/warren-ellis-signature-tenor

A customer contacted me about doing this. I've never rehoused a danelectro but I figure some other people have and could probably do a good job. PM me and I can put him in touch with you.

You'll also get a kick out of the hack job of JHS's mod to this pedal, which involves sticking a knob an inch away from the footswitch.

One unless I'm missing something expensive before I finish, don't have an appripriate enclosure for the board, or get a customer order in the middle of making something for me.

One final item to figure out is why R has a tad more hiss in the sweep then L...

You said that the right is high-passed, right? So the left is cutting some of the noise with its low-pass filtering, unless the filtering disappears in other modes.

If you're running both sides in mono, does the trem mode sound "normal"? Or is there some mid scoop when they're summed?

What's the bypass scheme on this?

Overall very nice.

If we're talking about stuff in the audio path, you want an idea of what you're going to end up with. Capacitor-resistor networks form filters. You can plug in the values to a frequency calculator and get some numbers:
sim.okawa-denshi.jp/en/CRlowkeisan.htm

Numbers are just numbers, though, and don't really tell you a whole lot. If you really want to get deep into this, one neat way might be to use a digital audio work station and a graphic EQ plugin to play with the cutoff frequency of a representative recorded sample of guitar notes. Set a -3db cutoff point for the "correct" value from the schematic, and then for the value of the substitute you have available. Spoiler alert: Most of the time you probably won't hear a difference. The other way, of course, is to set it up on the breadboard, but obviously you would need both values to make it work, and you'd also have to breadboard the entire circuit. (I don't seriously consider a DAW a substitute for breadboard + real amp, though, when it comes to hands-on experience.)

Things do get a little dicier in the higher registers, where small component value differences can start jumping huge gaps. Also, sometimes frequency cutoffs can be an integral part of the sound, especially in certain modulation effects.

You still need to figure out why you don't have -9V at pin 5 of the charge pump. Time to use the continuity tester on your multimeter and make sure things that are supposed to be connected actually are. It's also possible you fried the charge pump at some point.

MIght help to see the other side of the board as well.

RG Keen's modified Rocktavia.

Something like 6 octaves.

HUGE schematic and no layout yet ...