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Did you check with your multimeter? It might still have continuity.

nice job (cool enclosure work esp), and a certified good team of PCBs

Is there another mod that exaggerates the differences?

I think it's more of how much you can actually get out of the crossover. We're only talking about two stages here; there's only so much that can be done.

The output cap coming from Q3 is a lower limit. You could try increasing it to 2.2nF or 1n5. This will lower the output crossover down from a little over 1.5KHz in the original, which will put it more in range of the treble cut added to Q2 and crossover more signal. It'll cut a little bit of highs from the full-range side. It won't be bad, but it might be noticeable. (You might consider pulling the 150pF cap, or lowering it 22pF-47pF, to get back some of the treble.)

Keep in mind, too, that the cuts are gradual, single-pole filters. Small changes can do a lot.

I suggest using a frequency calculator to see if you can optimize what you want. The relevant resistances are 10K (treble cut) and 100K (output pot). You can input the various capacitances to see where it puts the cutoffs. Use what you have so far as a reference.

Okay. Your voltages mostly look fine to me, though I'm not entirely certain how you're getting voltage on 1, 9, and 14. Those should be at Vb (which is 0V) like all the other audio pins. Note, however, that they're all connected by a few resistors.

You aren't going to get sound at all the audio pins on the op amp. The signal is inverted in a lot of places.

Pin 5 of your charge pump looks too high as well. Try pulling the op amp and see if it changes. You might have a solder bridge somewhere that you just aren't seeing.

The red on silver looks great! Not a color combination I would have thought of, either. Awesome to see another vibe mod appear!

Hi everyone!
I'm new!
I found tho thread looking for a goatkeeper, the pedal you built is amazing but does not have
the step sequencer and the external audio sync the goatkeeper has.
Does anyone of you has one to sell or can help me in constructing one (a friend of mine could do that but he has not the chip)?
Does anyone of you know something similar?

Sorry everyone for the intromission maybe I'm off-topic but I'm in love of that tremolo and i can't find a way to get something similar

Ciao
Andrea

I think the Goatkeeper uses the same chip that's used for the TAPLFO, but with different programming. The sequencer is on board in that. You could, however, trigger a 4017 step sequencer using this LFO. The 4017 is common a decade counter chip, and you can get them all over the place for under a dollar.

This pedal does have an external sync (it uses voltage as a clock source), with instructions provided in the TAPLFO. It would not actually be too difficult to treat an external audio source as a voltage source (like "strum tempo" on the TC Electronics stuff), but I have no idea how accurate it would be.

Those are the ones moer use. The moer ones just poke through holes iirc

Yep.

To use them, you need to devise some sort of panel with other fixed components to keep them in place.

Malekko, MI Audio, and a bunch of other manufacturers also use the exact same type of pots.

Pin 11 ought to be -9V. What are you getting there?

You have positive voltage showing on pin 5 of the charge pump. Are you sure about that?

If they plugged in a PS that was providing anything over 10.0000000000001VDC then that is probably a goner! 

This made me lol.

I really hate that chip.

Check that you didn't use a 560K instead of 560R for R24.

Great looking builds -- and knowing how much time you spent on the Bearhug, I'm really glad you like the sound of it after all the issues.

But I digress, and do not mean to take away from your work.

No, it's fine -- the Tremolescence was one of the pedals the customer and I discussed before I agreed to build for him, and I love the Dr. Scientist stuff. I wanted to ensure that he couldn't get an equivalent or better pedal from a commercial source first. (The closest he could get to everything he needed was the Goatkeeper, but I think he said it's not available anymore.)

Is there a reason you used 2 different types of jacks?

Yes -- the enclosed jacks are switched. The right input and expression needed to be switched. I used the same type of jack for the left input even though it could have been a normal TRS open jack simply because it fit better and didn't look funny sticking out of the back. I used open jacks for the four on the "out" side because that was the only way they'd all fit and it saved me the trouble of figuring out where to ground the enclosure.

A treble booster like the one they're suggesting isn't just changing a couple caps on a booster to boost the treble instead of full-range. It also has very specific biasing and heavy input loading, which adds extra distortion and also cuts the treble (basically, tone suck).

However, there is an interesting property of the SHO that it does, at least, add distortion and input loading when the gain is all the way up. However, you will have an input impedance of a few hundred KOhms, unlike the perhaps 50KOhms of the rangemaster. So it'll retain more treble. But people do seem to like the distortion added.

Dutchy's right that you should probably build both correctly before you consider modding the SHO.

pretty Dr sci, although Ryan would have a 4 layer board in a 125B (!) the crazy legend

That circuit board could fit in a 125B even on perfboard (it's pretty much the same size as the one I used for my Tap Tempo Cardinal a while back, which was a two-layer PCB in a horizontal 125), but the 7 jacks and extra toggle and expression rotary --- nnnnnnnope.