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These should be the voltages:

1 = .07    8 = 4.5
2 = 4.5    7 = 9
3 = ~3    6 = 4.5
4 = 0.00  5 = 0.00

Also, I think I spotted another problem. I was trying to figure out why pin 3 was so low -- it looks like you used a 1.5K for R17 (should be 31.6K). That's setting your bias voltage super low. If you look closely at the layout, the "3" in that 31.6K is hanging off the end of the resistor. It was probably hard to see. You can use a 33K or 30K, whatever's handy. Desoldering stuff sucks on perf, sorry I didn't catch it sooner.

Cute art, and really nice playing overall -- it really helps open up your Blue Jr.

A couple notes:
I heard some squeal at max gain that sounded like some power noise. (If you were using a single coil, ignore what I'm about to say.) You might want to consider a 100R in series with the 9V to add some filtering. I noticed in your build doc that you didn't use the series silicon polarity protection diode from the original schematic. Some diodes have natural internal resistance ... if you omitted it, it could reduce the filtering. I realize that max gain is also max noise, and that YouTube was probably compressing and raising the noise floor, but it was still a distinctive high pitched noise that I associate with power noise.

If you're going to replace the 1N4148, BAS33 are a direct sub on Fv for the MA diodes. They recently went end of life, but mouser has TONS of them still. They measure identically to the MA diodes on my multimeter.

Waitaminit, if you watch the whole video, it's a SILVER champ in the back, miced up. It might even be a silver princeton.

Any one know of any others?

Almost everything by Runoff Groove is at least good. But for now, build the Azabache and Supreaux Deux for low-gain type stuff, and the Thor for higher gain. Thomas_H has PCBs for a bunch of ROG circuits

Theres also a small point where the arctic white fuzz resembles it here, http://youtu.be/RA4qZtY_nIo?t=8m19s
its very close!  but ive never heard it close again, in all the other videos of it i listened to...  hes using reverb, without it it would be closer.

You know what though, I dont know if it's because that faces segment is on tape and compressed that way or youtube or what, but when you slap that compressor in front of that germanium od, i can hear that its wanting to go there more so than the others you suggested.  Its a nice little tone there.  I've actually got a cheap rogue compressor that has a really nice tonal quality to it that I may experiment with my catalinbread sft or joyo sweet baby and see what happens, but im not expecting much.

The Arctic White is a fuzz face, just with a FET in one of the stages instead of another BJT. You can get the same sounds out of a regular low-gain fuzz face.

Definitely try the comp before the fuzz. I used to do that order, but ended up switching when I started using the Azabache on my board (so now I'm Fuzz > Comp > OD)

And thanks for the link to the tin can amp guy!

Do they look okay?

Working on making an audio probe now...

Nope. Pin6 should not be 9V -- and since it's almost exactly the same voltage as pin7, I'm going to say that your multimeter just didn't completely settle and that they're shorted. Check for a short between pins 6 and 7 (and all the components touching them), using your multimeter's continuity setting (beep) if you have to to make sure it's not connected to the 9V supply.

We'll tackle more stuff once we sort that out. You're losing signal between the input and output of the op amp, so we'll focus on that first.

Ron Wood is probably my favorite guitarist. I don't know what he's using live on 'Miss Judy's Farm' in the clip, but in interviews I've seen him say he records his distorted tone with a tweed champ with the gain on 11 and doesn't use any pedals.

That sound is 100% cranked champ with buckers (though some other amps will do something similar).

I actually think you might have decent luck just using a Class A boost circuit biased so your guitar overdrives it fairly easily. It won't be a ton of distortion, but it'll have the spongy character. You can stick some diodes afterward to add a bit of extra distortion (basically, make an electra with different biasing). You could also take the Rangemaster and increase the input and output caps, too.

However, you're right that a germanium fuzz face CAN get a similar sound. You might want to run the voltage (or possibly bias) down some and use a pre-gain control. The pre-gain is to get rid of the sustain and brighten it up. The lower voltage is to take the edge off and make it freak out and sag a little bit. This isn't SO radically different from just using a Class A as described above ... the way the Fuzz Face works is much closer to two transistors acting like a single amplifier anyway.

There are some FET-based circuits I'd recommend that aren't as "hard" sounding as the Black 65. The big one is the Supreaux Deux: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=18IpzhvQfBo Skip to 3:25. The small Supreaux stuff wasn't radically different from a Tweed. There's a slight problem here: You'd want the bass switch on, and I left it out of my build, and I'm using single coils, which actually makes a big difference with this circuit. But if you add the bass switch, it will get really close to a Tweed. Not quite as much buzz in the top end, but that could be a tone setting.

And there's always ...
http://www.runoffgroove.com/ruby.html

I really, really, wish I could find the video I have in mind, but perhaps a year ago I saw a demo of someone doing Ronnie Wood through a Ruby amp built into a metal canister. It was really, really close. But I've been through a couple dozen pages of videos and I didn't see it come up.

Edit, more stuff to check out:
My take on the MKII Tonebender, skip to 7:45 for a low gain setting. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zEPx8xdao8A
The first setting in that video isn't super high gain.

A germanium fuzz face with almost a full minute in low gain settings, then later a low gain setting with a compressor in front (this is an unpublished demo I did, I wasn't thrilled with it): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0e4Art-txE0

mmmm, knob-y.

I think it's fine without 'em but I'm not an expert on that.
Here's a snip I like from the AION Korg preamp project:

wow, that's all that's involved?

How big is the converter itself? About the size of a chip? I'm rethinking a certain 15V project now ...

That's some really impressive stuff. The talent is getting killed by the recording quality, though. Epic voice over rink-dink sounds. Really kills it.

Yeah, it was just a board recording.

I'm seriously *this* close to bankrolling a trip to Beat Babies Studios for them.

Current use with respects to the draw on the battery is not the concern. The current draw of the circuit on the pump is where you may run into trouble. If your circuit is drawing more current than the charge pump can deliver, you will see degraded performance in the form of distortion or even circuit failure.

Do you know how many mA the circuit(s) will pull? My golden rule (with the LT1054) is 50mA. If the circuit pulls more than 50mA then I need to figure out another way. Of course, I have "heard" that the LT1054 can be used up to 100mA but, I have not tried it. Also, that was purely as a doubler. You are looking for a positive doubler AND a negative doubler. Might need some figuring out and experimentation.

Output current is 100mA for the regular 1054 and 125mA for the 1054L (but that can only take 7V in). It's in the datasheet, and it also scales with the supply current from the power source up to 120mA. They're not going to overestimate the current delivered because that's a really good way to piss people off (just like you never see a maximum voltage rating underestimated), and you can probably squeeze a little more out of it. Lots of people have used the 1054 in univibe clones, which easily draw far more than 50mA, but there's no reason to rely on hearsay when the datasheet gives you maximum ratings.

The main drawback to supplying as much voltage as possible is that it increases the voltage loss. You lose about a half volt extra of voltage when drawing more current than you do when drawing very little.

My friends played at the Takoma Park Folk Festival this year, which is actually kind of a big deal in the folk scene in our little corner of the world. They ended up with a board recording of the concert. They started off with like 10 people in seats and by the end of their set every seat was filled and there were a ton of people standing on the lawn.

"There's a Light" is particularly magical. It also has Katie singing lead on one of Joe Scala's best songs, Grounded, which I also cover. (His FAWM recording of that song friggin amazing.)

http://katieandjoe.bandcamp.com/album/live-at-the-takoma-park-folk-festival

It's a free download if you want to pay nothin'.

Also, the drummer and third vocal on this, Mosno, is worth checking out for his own stuff.

Yikes. First, you're going to have to eliminate shorting on the box as the source of the problem. Just unscrew all the pots and lift the PCB out, see if the short is still there. Did you insulate the pots from the PCB? Make sure that insulation isn't punctured. If you still have the short, you'll have to eliminate the enclosure entirely from the equation by desoldering the PCB and moving it to your testing rig. If you still have the short on the test rig, you'll at least be able to get to the parts easier once the effect is out.

This was a challenging first perfboard build

What makes this a difficult first build, if I may ask.

Just that it was a tight (and slightly disorganized ...) layout with quite a few components on perfboard and meant for a 1590A.

I think that cap is backwards -- but it's easy enough to check. The side with the - sign and grey stripe should be connected to the ground. You can use your multimeter and check continuity.

Couple more question. Can I wire this pedal with standard MB wiring diagram (for true bypass) and is there a way to make status LED blink with repeats?

Happy New Year

To get an LED to blink in time with the PT2399, you need something that can convert a clock signal into a control voltage.
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=102660.0

or you can add Tap Tempo with the Taptation, which has its own LED drivers.

For true bypass, yes, you can use the MB standard wiring diagram instead of the DPDT footswitch wiring in the build document, but you must jumper the connection to the delay line.