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That is awesome. I really wish Rob would let someone else make a PCB or a new etch for this. I really would love to build it but the wiring is what turns me off.. not that I can't do it, it just looks terrible boxed up.

You have done a great job on this AlanP.

Isn't it a box of hall with a little add-on? You could use the tenebrion and etch a daughter board for the tone switch.

Alan, does this have tails?

Could also be a low battery. If the battery is below 7V, it won't power the regulator enough.

PT2399s eat batteries, too.

Post the voltages on your PT2399 for a start.

It's hard to tell much from the pictures -- they're very small. Can you upload the original resolution to a host site?

Doubling the supply voltage will not necessarily double the bias voltage, because the current drawn by the FETs is unlikely to change linearly with the voltage increase. You will sometimes need to rebias.

Some circuits are designed to distort on a 9V supply with a specific ratio of bias voltage to supply. 4.5V is hardly a rule -- many overdrives are biased to 2/3 supply, and some preamp type effects are biased even colder (the Fatpants, for instance, is variable between about 16V down to 9V as the boost pot is turned). A lower or higher supply voltage might not sound "right" with the bias ratio indicated for the design, so a 9V circuit run on 18V might not distort as much as it's designed to.

If you just want the most possible headroom, then increasing the supply voltage is good.

The other reason to consider a larger supply voltage with FETs is that fixed biasing becomes more reliable. For that, 18V is good, 24V is better, and 27 or 30V is outstanding.

Isn't that the movie with that really short crazy guy that came out in the 80s?

This was a challenging first perfboard build, especially because it's one of the last layouts I haven't gone back and redone. In fact, I just spotted a couple mistakes on my layout that I must not have fixed after building it, so I'm going to pull it from the archive until I get a chance to redo it. But it's very fixible.

I'm going to refer to this schematic for the values:
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/YellowShark/docs/YellowShark.pdf

Anyway, to fix my mistakes: run a jumper from the 9V to that 5.6K resistor coming off of Q1. Another mistake I made is that Q1 is backwards on the layout (gate should be on the right). Sorry about that! That would definitely be an issue!

From there, we'll just tackle it like any other debug.

Get out your multimeter and take voltages at the 9V in, each pin of IC1, and each pin of Q1.

Use an audio probe and probe the following places to narrow down the problem:
-Op amp: pin 3, pin 2, pin 6
-The junction of R8, D3, and D4 (the edge where your diodes are hanging off) and then the other side of R8.
-The gate of the FET. Datasheet here if you're not sure which is the gate.
-The drain of the FET.

The debug help thread has instructions for taking voltages and using an audio probe if you haven't used these tools before (and since this is your first build, you probably haven't!). Take your time and don't get frusrated. If for some reason you don't have a multimeter ... get one soon! Heh, but actually, the audio probe can be done with parts you already have lying around, so definitely do that. In fact, you don't even have to dismantle a cable -- I just use alligator clips to connect the ground and hold a capacitor.

I apologize again for not revisiting this layout before making the archive downloadable.

It does sound pretty rifftastic ... hard but Marshall-y. Was the Blues Jr. pushed at all, or mostly unity?

D-d-d-d-e-e-e-e-l-l-l-a-a-a-a-a-y-y-y-y-y!
Today I can say I am lucky! Bought new A20K pot and because in store they haven`t got any B25K I decided to buy B20K for MIX. When I went back home I soldered new pots plugged the pedal and everything is now as it should be.
Thank you Jon for everything and especially for this wonderful pedal!

Glad you got it working, and thanks for sticking with it and working through each issue in turn. Hope you enjoy the delay sounds you get out of it.

This cap is a low-pass filter, basically bypassing treble so that it's never amplified. Small changes in its value actually become fairly severe as you increase the gain of Q1. In either case, if you want a smoother fuzz, go with the 220. If you want a slightly brighter fuzz, go with the 180. Or put a 22pF in parallel with the 180 to get to 200.

The charge pump is built into the PCB, isn't it.?

Derp, you're right. Ignore that part. What I said still applies, though, it has filtering before and after the charge pump. You most likely won't need the extra filtering.

The A50K will work; it won't cause you to have one delay. We can put a parallel resistor on it later if the repeats are out of control. Double check the connections and wire/make sure none of the wires broke. If they're all solid, pull out the probe again, and follow the schematic from C9, R14, Repeats lug 3, C13, R8, and R6 -- that's the full feedback path and covers every part between the "first" repeat and the subsequent ones.

Cardinal Tremolo ( with LDR/LED combination because here nowhere you can find Vactrols)

That won't work. I haven't been able to find a discrete LDR with high enough dark resistance and low enough light resistance to reliably work. You can get the right vactrols on Ebay pretty easily. Also Smallbear sells them and, so far as I know, ships worldwide.

Man, that movie has EVERYTHING.

There is a missing bridge between 4m7 and 4k7 resistors. But that is something I will be able to solve tomorrow.
I will keep you updated with my build. Thank you for  your time and help.

Glad you found the mistake! It's easy to miss stuff on perfboard, but it gets MUCH easier to find them with practice. And this was a difficult perf build, and my layouts are a little ... erm ... chaotic sometimes.

The good news is that I know your delay line is working -- you touched the chip and you got a delayed shush. Let me know if you have more problems.

You're running it on 9V with the charge pump, correct? Via the road range? The Road Rage has filtering pre- and post-charge pump, and that and the on-board filtering should not only be sufficient but perhaps even overkill. Mine makes no noise at all on a one-spot.

Q1 - checked for continuity everything seems to be ok. Power for C Q1 comes from 4k7 resistor right?

Yes.

Something has to be wrong with Q1. Either there's a resistor wrong, a connection isn't made, you have a solder bridge, or there's something wrong with the transistor itself. There are only 5 parts hanging off of it, and only three matter as far as getting signal with your probe at the emitter and collector (the base, emitter, and collector resistors).