Topics

Looking at the schematic and the board there is a pad called Buff. Looking at the schematic, I've come to the conclusion that it can only be because the pedal isn't true bypass and offers a buffered bypass (the wiring of the foot switch seems to confim that, I think). Would that be a correct assumption to make with it?

*****EDIT*****

Loads more boards added, going to get them ordered soon and built up to test. Full list of boards are:
- Boneyard single channel version
- Midnight Haunting (Haunting Mids)
- Juicier Juice (Orange Squeezer)
- Sea Fleas (Deep Blue Delay)
- STD (OCD)
- Swamprat (Wampler Plexitone)
- Unicorn Slaying (Klon)
- Little Chubby (Husky Boy)
- Thunder Buddy (Thunderpuss)
- Fat Boosted (Spackler)
- Faux Paux (Leviathan - Wampler Faux Echo)
- 828 (Demo Tape Fuzz)

*****END OF EDIT*****

I've recently got into the 1590A enclosures after mainly sticking with the 1590B, so I've had a little creative spurt on board designing. These are just my latest ones, and are either here waiting for parts, or I'm waiting for the boards to arrive to test them. I also always try and hide the vias in pads which helps to keep the boards looking neat.

Single channel MB boneyard that's in the extra projects section.



Midnight Haunting (Haunting Mids from etchers paradise).



Juicer Juice (Orange Squeezer).



Sea Fleas (Deep Blue Delay). Has an optional dirt control for oscillation, and pinched the name from another member on here as it's such a good name. Awaiting a couple of parts for it.



STD (OCD). Awaiting a couple of parts for it.



Swampy (Swamprat aka Wampler Plexitone).



Unicorn Slaying (Klon). Never built a Klon before, always wanted to see what the hype was about.



I've got a few others in various states of design as well, and a full build report will be given on each one.

In the meantime, here is some pics of a half built STD and Snitch (Rat) and a completed Lovepedal Plexi which I'll test tomorrow.







Sent from my SM-G928F using Tapatalk

Apologies to the 3 guys I'm sending SMD boards to, I've been riddled with problems again. Tapatalk has completely stopped working now and when I try opening up a forum in it, it says 'Network error. Please try again later. (get_config)'. It happens for all forums, and I've tried unstalling it and installing it again but it had no effect. My laptop died again, needed another new motherboard. Early last year I replaced the screen cable on my laptop, but broke the keyboard connector. I got a new motherboard off of eBay, a friend installed it for me, but then it decided to stop working. Got another motherboard off of eBay, and so far it seems alright, apart from it runs quite hot at times (if I'm not wearing trousers it can burn my leg!), so I've bought one of those laptop coolers off of eBay. I'll get around to getting a new laptop one day, but it's still a high spec laptop so trying to get a few more years out of it if possible. Then my router decided to die leaving me without any internet for a couple of weeks. If I promised you some SMD boards can you please send me your address again as I seem to be missing a lot of PMs (I know WGC was one, but for the life of me I can't remember the other 2).

On the plus side, I've had loads of new SMD boards arrive. 3 of them are 1590A versions of ones I already had, the other 3 are 1590A versions of the Proco Rat, STD which is a OCD clone and the MB Boneyard (single channel version, bit of a mission to get it on a small enough board size). Still waiting on some parts to arrive (mostly 9mm pots, but a few components) so I'm not sure if they work yet or not.

I've recently seen a video whereby someone made a SMD stencil using the aluminium from drinks cans. I've had mostly good results from my first go at it, one stencil I left in far too long and destroyed the bit between the pads though. Because it's only about 7'C here, the etching was taking forever, so I decided to have the etching tray on the open door of one of my toaster ovens with the oven switched on, after a while it warmed up the ferric chloride nicely and the etching didn't take too long. I've also seen another video where someone made a stencil out of a OHP transparency sheet, so I've ordered some and going to run them through the laser cutter. In the video the guy had his laser set on engraving, which I'm not sure would be better then cutting, but I'll need to play around with the settings to get them as perfect as possible. I've also seen videos of stencils being made using kapton film, but I can't find anywhere in the UK that sells it. I think my next big purchase is going to be a SMD reflow oven as they seem pretty cheap on eBay now.

So after having near enough zero Internet in my house for well over 2 months, and a phone contract mess up meaning losing reception most of the time (switching from a contract to sim only deal which got messed up), I'm finally back! Managed to get on and read a few threads here and there, but now I've got loads of back reading to do!

I know and few people are waiting for PM replies which will be done in the next few days, along with all my December PIGS that will be sent out now I can get everyone's addresses up (sorry about the wait!).

Has anybody else upgraded to the new version of this? If you haven't,  don't upgrade to it. It's bloody awful and won't let me reply to PMs  (sorry if you're awaiting a reply). I hope they go back to the old version soon! And none of the buttons to navigate the forum are in logical places

I'm going to assume that almost everyone has this problem, in that the wiring is generally what takes the longest time in assembling a pedal. When I make a pedal, a mate generally nicks it, so I need to build another one, and this generally happens several times for each new pedal I build, but they do contribute to the cost of the parts for a new one, which makes this a nearly self funding hobby, but I still spend far too much time building them.

So the time consuming wiring part got me thinking with how to save time and get neater wiring. As I do my board layouts with mounted pots, but have to solder some solid wire to the pots, then solder them to the board, and cut the excess off, board mounted pots isn't really saving me any time, especially as I use pots with the solder lugs. My wiring from the board to the 3PDT board isn't as neat as I would like either.

My solution to the problem is with a board with a foot switch mounted to it, along with the jack sockets. I decided to drop the board mounted jack sockets, but the wiring to the board will be hidden instead, and to have the pots wired to the board (using heat shrink over the cables to keep them together and neat). I redid a simple design I had (Lofo Mofo) just to test the idea out. On a board with more components, I'm planning on having them between the jack socket terminals and the pot terminals. I've realised I've made a mistake with this board in that the components are on the wrong side, but I'm thinking I can just flip the board over.

I've taken a picture of my new layout design so far, but I'm not sure if it's a good idea to do it like this or not and was wondering on people's opinions. I'm going to neaten up the board a bit tomorrow and send it off so I can try it out.

I've got a slight issue. I want to build up a new board that I've got, and on the power input there is a 47u cap to ground, and me being silly and not keeping my stash levels up, has run out of them. Can I substitute it for a 100u cap without any issues. Obviously there is a difference in what the values do, but if someone wouldn't mind explaining them, that would be great.

My first Cornish Buffer build was making a weird noise, then stopped passing any sound though it. I was worried I made a mistake with the board as Eagle was saying I needed to put a trace in to connect a component to the ground plane,even though it was already connected to a ground plane that was connected to ground. After about a month of thinking about it, I built a new one up, and it worked! Which is great, as I've already got a box drilled and powder coated for it, and going to etch the label tomorrow after work. The box is less then half the size of a 1590A, and only just fits everything inside!

Here is the board, box will be finished tomorrow and if I have enough time, I'll get the enclosure all wired up.

So, my latest SMD board works! Can't wait to get this one boxed up! Just tried it on my testing rig/box, and it's absolutely beautiful!

It's essentially a Lotus Pedals Snowjob, which is a underdrive (marketing hype I think), and has a switch to go from normal mode, to what I can tell is diode clipping to get a more harmonic effect.

Here is a YouTube video I've found of it http://youtu.be/VxQ73v9-BXg

I'm getting ready to build and box a booster with a 2nd stage that can be added via a switch, however, I'm feeling adventurous and thinking about rather then using a switch, using a secondary foot switch. However, as the board is only small, I'm thinking of using a 1590B, but have it on its side in landscape view, with the on/off foot switch on the left, and the 2nd stage foot switch on the right. I've had a quick play around, and it will all fit comfortably in the box I think, but will the foot switches be too close together? I've never done a dual foot switch pedal before so I'm not sure if they would be too close or not.

Answers on a postcard please!.......

I think I've got an addiction to SMD. I haven't got round to verifying all the boards yet, but it's the start of an epic pedal board collection!



2x buffers (only the Cornish Buffer is shown)
SHO clone
Lovepedal Purple Plexi
RaD
RaD with tone and feedback controls
Lofo Mofo
OCD
Tape Fuzz
Zen Drive
Sparkle Booster (not shown)
Sparkle Booster Deluxe
Green Giant
Compressor using a vactrol
SWAW
One that for the life of me, I can't remember what it is

I've got a few verified, but I didn't realise I did this many board layouts. Got a few more in the works as well, which should keep me busy for a while

First pedal I've finished in a while, and quite pleased with it. I did a SMD fuzz board, not sure where the schematic was from though, and I'm really not a fuzz user, but all in all, it doesn't sound too bad! I'll post a gut shot tomorrow.

I powder coated the enclosure, and it was laser etched using the local place to me before I got my laser cutter. Still not sure on the red knob though.....

Had a bunch of PCBs turn up today from iTead. I ordered 100 boards for my foot switch boards, 177 turned up! Not sure I'll ever build enough to use them all, but I'm not gonna complain! Also had boards for the Cornish Buffer and Nick Greers Green Giant, but Mr Stupid here forgot to order the transistors so can't built them up just yet!

Just wondering if there are any cyclists on here?

I got into it in March as a way to lose weight and build up my leg muscles ready for a knee operation that I had in June. As I didn't know if I would keep at it after the operation, I just got a cheap mountain bike, and as I really liked it, I've now upgraded to a cyclocross  (CX) bike. Managed to get a cracking deal on it, but due to it being in the shop for 2 weeks being repaired under warranty, I've only been riding again for about 2 weeks, but absolutely loving it!

Here she is! SRAM Apex groupset, and I put on Shimano m520 clipless pedals, but upgraded the cleats to multi release ones (saved me falling on my ass after I've stopped due to not unclipping my feet quick enough several times!



And here is a few pics of my ride down by the river a couple of days ago.....






And in winter when the trees loose their leaves, and the sky is grey, this bridge looks like something out of a Zombie film!

Recently, the sounds coming out of my amp are starting to sound a little like guitar sounds since I've actually sat down and put some time into practicing, so thought I would treat myself to a new amp (for anyone who maybe interested, I got the Blackstar HT-5RS mini stack). It's a great little amp, and it has an effects loop for pedals. Would I be right in saying the effects loop misses out the pre-amp as it preserves more or the guitars original sound or something? Also, I built a SHO clone in SMD, but I've heard they sound best driving the pre-amp, so I would plug it in on the input if this is right.

It's my first proper vavle amp since I've been able to play, and I think what I've wrote above is correct, but if someone more knowledgeable then myself could confirm it that would be great.

Sent from my thumbs using Tapatalk!

Wow, been a while since I've been online, and I've felt lost without the forum! I used to come on 2-3 times a day, mainly just browsing threads, but haven't even been able to do that. My work kept sending me to bases all around Europe, so the internet was either stupidly expensive or the connection was so crap I couldn't get on. When i was home, I was sorting bits out, or riding my bike and doing weights in the gym to lose weight and build up my leg muscles ready for a knee operation that I had yesterday. Bad news is that i can't do much at the moment, good news is that when I'm a bit more mobile, I can finally get loads of building done! Still need to finish an amplifier, and a couple of ZP SDX builds, along with a load of others.

I'm just so happy that I've now got the time to come online, browse the forum and start building again!

Just wondering if someone could help me out. I'm building a couple of Smoothies, and need a 250K trimmer for them. I ordered 200K and 500K from my usual parts supplier as they didn't have the right value, then forgot to order some from Tayda with my order from them as well. So my question is, will the 200K trimmer work for it? Or will I be better off using the 500K but have more trouble dialing it in.

Answers on a post card to the usual address!

Sent from my thumbs using Tapatalk!

I've wanted to upgrade my soldering iron for quite a while as I just have a cheap Antex 25W one which I've used for several years now. After sitting on the fence for a few months, I finally got one! I felt like a kid on xmas day when it arrived!

With my new found SMD addiction, I was going to just order a hot air gun, but managed to find one with a soldering iron for not much more.

The cheapest units I've found here start at £310, which I just can't justify at the moment, but from this Chinese seller on eBay, it was £66 with free delivery. What really swung it was that they have a warehouse here so delivery onky took 2 days. Absolute bargain!

I've had a very quick play with it, and it's so easy! Both the hot air gun and soldering iron are variable temp, and heat up in seconds! My Antex one took nearly 5 minutes to be upto temp. Still need to find out the ideal temps and fan speed to run it at. Can't wait to have the time to play with it more in a few days!



Sent from my thumbs using Tapatalk!

Just wondering if anyone can help me out. As a few of my recent threads have shown, I've recently got into SMD circuits, but part sourcing can be a massive problem. I've been studying data sheets recently to find part numbers in SMD, but apart from that, I'm not 100% sure on what to look for on them.

However, I've stumbled upon a problem that I'm hoping someone can help with. I'm trying to do a layout for a circuit and it uses a 1N34a diode. As far as I can tell, they don't come in SMD form, but is there another diode, which is preferably silicon, that I can sub it with? The reason why I want to sub it for a silicon diode, is because they generally also come in SMD.

After a bit of a fight, I finally got this one going!

It's basically a Lofo Mofo and it's great fun to play through, making your guitar sound like it's coming through one of the old style transistor radios.

I made a mistake on the layout by placing the gain pot after C1, and not before it. Had to cut the trace and install a small wire. Also, when I designed it, it was for board mounted pots, but when I had the box milled, the holes were too high for board mounted pots so had to wire them in.

I've got another 8 boards spare if anyone wants to build up a cool little circuit.

The last pic shows the depth of the laser etch on the box (I'll be offering this with my boxes soon), and a close up of the 3D paint effect using antique gold powder coating.




Sent from my thumbs using Tapatalk!