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I'm having a dreadful run of bad luck here. I've built 7 pedals in the last few days and none of them are working! I think a couple of them may be due to my 3PDT board, but when I tried one without it, it still didn't work! One of the boards I know definitely works as I built one previously for a friend. All seem to have absolutely no signal through them, although the LED lights up.

I know my power pack was playing up when I took it to a friends house for him to try a few pedals, hope it's just that.

Also, it would happen when I've finally managed to do the neatest wiring I've ever done on a pedal......


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Mr stupid here managed to crack the neck on my favourite guitar (Ibanez S470) when I was a bit tipsy in the summer. By tipsy I mean rather drunk after a BBQ. While on ebay looking for a new neck, I saw a gorgeous S body with a quilted maple top and couldn't resist it!

It was supposed to be a nice cheap project, but after doing research on an Ibanez hard case, Ibanez Lo-Pro trem, nice pickups, etc, it's going to end up costing a fair amount more then first planned. I'm thinking about a gold trem and pickup surrounds on it. My current S series have the V7, V8 and S1 pickups so I'm thinking about using something else in this one.

Unfortunately, a laser engraver and CNC milling machine are going to be bought before the guitar bits so it's going to wait a while.

A few pics of it as I'm a complete sucker for quilted maple tops! The last picture is my current S series.






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Just wondering if anynof you more knowledgeable people then me could help identify some caps I have.

The caps have changed since the instruction manual for a amp was made, and some of the components don't match up.

Thanks muchly!





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I've just done a board layout for the Lovepedal Purple Plexi in SMD.

Out of curiosity, when it's verified, would anyone be interested in purchasing any of the remaining boards? The would come with all the SMD components needed for it as well.

A video of the pedal:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tWe2eiHo7FY

I've near enough built a Autobahn today, but I'm missing a C1M pot. I've got a A1M and B1M pot, and wondering if I can use them. However, I know the C taper pots are reverse, so I was wondering if I connected a A or B taper pot backwards would it have any impact on the circuit? And would it work in the same way as a C taper pot if wired backwards.

After hearing the Autobahn clips I really want to get it working ASAP.

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I've recently got one of Pauls LPB1 booster SMD kits and I'm planning on building it today. So last night I was sitting there in front of the TV and watching youtube videos on how to solder them, and with solder paste and a hot air gun it looks extremely easy and quick. I stsrted looking for SMD components, 100 resistors for £0.16, or 100 metal film through hole resistors for £1.20. Capacitors are fairly cheap as well. However, I'm struggling to find IC's and transistors, mainly the TL062, 072, 074, LM308 for the IC's, and MPF102, 2N5457, 5458, 3034, etc. Anyone know of a good source for them?

Just thinking it's probably quicker to populate a board using solder paste and a hot air gun, cheaper, and could panalise boards with iTead easier.

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My first ever build report!

Built the Egghead a while ago, finally got around to boxing it up 2 days ago. Sounds absolutely amazing!No gut shots at the moment, and its completely standard apart from C2, which should be 120pF but I didnt have any so used 100pF. I'm crap at choosing names for projects, and only came up with this one due to the enclosure being gold. The water slide decal didn't line up properly so I cut it into bits and applied it. Looks great, can't see the edges apart from where the '9V' and 'in' are because a small part lifted up and folded over.

The paint is a gold gloss powder coat, followed by a waterslide decal, followed by a clear gloss powder coat.



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I've used ducktaperiots tutorial for inkscape, which has gone well so far. But whenever I print the image, or print it to PDF format, some of it is missing! I can't work out how to rectify it, so any help would be great. A pic below shows what I mean:



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Got a quote the other day from a local powder coating company about painting up some enclosures and was told the powder coating would be £2.50-£5 a box which I thought was very reasonable. It was for 14 boxes, 2 in each colour. Got a proper quote from them, the colours I want is nearly £800, or to use the very limited colours they have in stock is £250. Now I know there is a fair bit of work involved but those prices are ridiculous!

So I've gone and bought myself a powder coating system and oven! Bought several colours to go with it, and just wondering if anyone else does it and can give any advice.

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I've been extremely happy with the place I currently get all my electronic supplies from over the years, but I keep reading about Tayda, about how good and cheap they are. I decided tonplace an order which shipped a couple of days after ordering. Only took 8 days to arrive, everything is there and appears to be of good quality. Definitely gonna place a larger order next time to stock up on pots and knobs!

What do people think of their enclosures? I've worked out they are just under £2 cheaper then what I can get Hammond ones for, but was wondering about the quality.


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Just built a Slow Loris. Loving the tones I'm getting from!

I'm a bit confused with C9 though. On the build doc is says to use a 1uF box film cap, but I was wondering why. I didn't have one so I socketed a electro cap instead and wondered if it would have any effect on the tone.

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I've nearly finished building my Slow Loris, but realised that C9 is supposed to be a 1uF film cap, but I only have that in a electro cap. Would using one of them be ok or would it maybe cause some problems?