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Messages - harpplayer

#46
Yep, changed all the components, moved the traces next and below the IC´s, and removed the diodes and cap mentioned on the doc.

I was afraid I might have fried the MN3005´s, but I tested them on my DM-2 and they are ok. Funny thing is that on 9V it worked (clean signal at least). That´s odd...
#47
Hi!

I am having (yet another) problem with my Dirtbag.

It is working quite alright now with the v3205, but since I got MN3005´s and I´ve socketed all the critical values, I changed the IC´s.

I am using a nice 15V power supply, but I only get a loud hum and a tiny signal. If I use the 9V, then I get clean signal just ok (haven´t tweaked the trimpots to see if I can get any delay, but it would probably be just too distorted).

The power supply is working just ok with all my other effects, so I really have no idea what might have happened here. Does anyone?

Thanks!
André
#48
Hi! 

Am I the only one getting fuzzy sounds even with all the pots down? (You have to turn up the amp´s volume a bit, but it defintly leaks, and is not as clean as the "natural" sound)
#49
I don´t see why would someone fake an MN3007 TODAY, but you never know....

As far as the delay range, I think it is the most limited in the MN series - but works perfectly for the chorus.

There is still plenty of them from different sources, but they´ll get scarce someday too, and then people should be worried... But anyways smallbear offers guarantee!
#50
Thanks Scruffie! Sorry for my newbieness, but I used to think that messing with R24 (in parallel with the caps) would somehow change the frequencies amplified by the IC. What is exactly the function of this resistor?

I guess what he wants though is to have more of the effect, so messing with the mix might be a good option at that point.

Tks!
André
#51
Build Reports / Re: Lowrider fuzziness?
April 22, 2012, 05:04:39 AM
Tried to change the pots values, but it made no difference too (by looking at the schematic, I assumed the pots would control the voltage applied, but I may be wrong), so, since it is not a design shortcome - and as I am probably the only one experiencing this -, it is possible leakage. Still can´t seem to find where the signal could possible be leaking...
#52
Hi!

1) Alternatively to scruffie´s post, in order to have different ranges of speed, you could use a switch for R32. This 1M resistor is in series with the rate pot. The 100k pot gives some variation on the speed, but what is keeping this from being faster is the resistor in front of it (and considering a fix c19 value). Use the standard 1M and say, a 510K and you´ll have the stock version and very usable faster settings.

You could always jumper R32 and use a 1M pot, but I felt the changes in the pot were quite abrupt. Or else, you could use 510k for R32 and a 470-500K pot, which works great!

I am writing all that much because you said faster settings sounded a bit distorted, which doesn´t make much sense to me, but could be related to the caps setting the clock time. Using the approach I described resulted in no perceivable change in the chorus sound quality (it is both warm and clean).

2) The vibrato mod can be improved for a smoother wave, but I haven´t got to that part yet (maybe it would be just too complicated for many reasons, and the result not really satisfying). It sounds pretty ok on its own, though.

3) The chorus intensity cap mod suggested on Tonepad is really cool! I wouldn´t go much over 47pF, because it adds quite a bit of noise, but using lower values, say 15pF can give some nice subtle tones.

4) If for some reason your direct signal is lower than when bypassed, use a lower value for R21 (39K would be a good bet). For the effect part, if you want more volume, lower the value of R22, BUT be carefull, because BBD´s are not perfectly clean devices - and that is the reason we like it, the tone is just warmer yet clean, without being sterile -, so if you set it too low, the sound will be loud as hell, and equally distorted.

Using larger values for the pot you mentioned would do pretty much nothing, if set to zero, it would just cut a bit more of the effect´s volume, which would inaudible with that much resistance in the first place...

Once again, you have a resistor in front of it (R22), so if you want more signal passing, this is what you should change. Use the 250kC pot and lower R22 to something in the 27k-39k range. This will also compensate the volume loss you perceive on the vibrato mod.

That´s it... Good luck. It is an awesome pedal!

André


#53
Build Reports / Re: Lowrider fuzziness?
April 20, 2012, 04:22:11 PM
Darn flickr... I see no image here. You have to right click the picture and copy the address.
#54
Build Reports / Re: Lowrider fuzziness?
April 20, 2012, 04:21:01 PM
Hi Brian! Here are the pictures. No wire running below the circuit, everything is going through the sides. But, the power jack is just over the board, do you think this could be the reason? I could add a large filter capacitor , but I don't know if it would help much...




#55
Build Reports / Re: Lowrider fuzziness?
April 20, 2012, 03:04:43 AM
Hi there!

Finished building my Lowrider few days ago, and quite impressed with the tracking and sounds! I think I´ll "externalize" the trimpot, which plays a significant difference in the upper octave IF c10 and c12 are ommited. Maybe a couple of spdt to tweak their values on the fly. This is particularly useful if you are to use the Lowrider with the harmonica (a subtle upper octave cap. setting fattens up the signal in quite a cool way).

Only negative thing so far is that even with all the knobs down all the way, with the amp somehow loud, I can hear all the octaves sounding really fuzzy. Did this happen to you as well? Is there a fix? Pots are almost spot on in their values.

Tks!
André