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This is a Fuzz Face-like circuit with most of the components being SMD (and the pot is board mounted). I kept the transistors and elctro caps through-hole. Not sure why I did it that way. Maybe I'll update with all SMD next time.   But I will say that I really like the SMD trimmer I used on this one. It's pretty sweet. 

SMD is cool for layouts because you can put parts on both sides of the board, and you don't have to worry about through holes getting in the way. It's a different approach, for sure though, and it took a while to get my head around it.

To make things more complicated, I also decided to try out a new enclosure: the Hammond 1550P. It's an odd size. It's about twice as wide as a 1590A, but it's also shallower. That makes fitting hardware much trickier. I don't recommend this enclosure for anything with board-mounted pots. It would probably work great for true PTP fuzz circuits, however. I ended up having to machine the lid a bit to get it to sit flush with the jacks. The electros had to be laid flat as well. Oh, and the "inside" nut had to be removed from the stomp switch to keep the lugs from hitting the lid.

Anyway, here she is. I used a bottle cap for size reference.


Top of board, with diode, trimmer, trannies, and electros:




Bottom of board, with all the other passives (I should probably clean up all that nasty flux):




Outside enclosure:




Upskirt: (you can see that my poor choice of LED placement caused a lot of havoc in routing)

I'd love to see madbean crank out a 3x or 4x BL3208 delay, a la the Carbon Copy or Memory Toy. Or maybe rework the AquaBoy to fit the 3208 chips. I think they sound better than the V3205 by a long shot.

Maybe modulation, maybe not.

And it doesn't have to fit in a 1590A. In fact I'd prefer it didn't. But there could be a little SMD (1206 case size so it's not like sorting seeds) here and there to keep things from being massive.

Thoughts?

I just populated my Aquaboy last night. Fired up the first time no issues. But the repeats are absolutely filthy, and delay time / clock trimmer position has no effect on the dirtiness.

I've tried a couple different V3205s. I have found one that is slightly less sleazy than the others. But it's still really, really dirty. To be honest, I'm not a huge fan of analog delay in general, but I figured I'd try my hand at one anyway. I've played a few that were build around a single 3205, and none of them were nearly this dirty. I went with stock values on everything, except for the two 330p caps (I used 470p because that's the closes value I had).

I've read through some debugging threads, and it seems that R19 is a good starting point for adjustment. I believe that raising the value of R19 will pump the BBD with a higher voltage. Is this correct?

I'm not interested in adding on half a dozen daughter boards like GTR2 did. So if I can't get it reasonably clean with a few minor tweaks, I'll probably just sell it to someone who digs that kind of sound.

Here's a shot of the board:

Brian,

I figure you must have made a PT2399 part for Eagle since obviously that's what is used in the Doombutter.

I'm working on a delay-based project at the moment, and I really could use the 2399 in Eagle.

Would you mind sharing this? Or could I have the Eagle file for the Doombutter so I could import the part into my library?

Thanks!


PS - If the project works out like I hope, I'll be sharing it with the community at large.