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I can't wait for the Aquaboy Deluxe and the sub-mini! I'm glad I just stocked up on parts!! 

Awesome build! Really dig the graphic.

whoa are these pcbs for sale?

A limited amount of pcb's for this project will be available next month.

ooh! I want one! Keep us posted please!!!

GreAt build! I love the way it turned out. I love it when a mistake turn out to be the defining aspect of great artwork!

I found a mono version of them at Bonzai Music about a week ago but they are pretty expensive! I contacted small bear and they expect to have them back in stock by mid January. Here is the link if your really in a pinch:

http://www.banzaimusic.com/Marshall-1-4-jack-PC-mount-mono.html

What kind of knob should I use for the switch though?

I agree with Jimilee! Just keep in mind that you may need to sand down the top of the shaft of the switch (it's plastic) since it is a bit longer than the shaft on a typical potentiometer. I had to do this on one build so it didn't look hokey. On another occasion I got lucky and didn't have to. It depends what knob you use really... 

Any opinions on the Tayda Metal resistors? I've been thinking of stocking up.

well you probably know the good germanium trannies like you bought are no longer made and are becoming more and more rare as time goes by.  so most of us leave the leads on the tranny pretty long, and solder a socket into the pcb. inserting the transistor into this socket allows it to be easily rotated if you have it in wrong, or pulled out later to possibly use it in something else down the road.  and there's no chance of damaging the part during installation or removal from the soldering iron heat.

Here's a couple of links the particular type of socket I mean
http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?no=147
http://www.mammothelectronics.com/TO-18-Package-Round-Transistor-Socket-p/620-to18.htm

ok, i gotcha! so really, the resistors that came with it are irrevevant to what i'm doing?

I would personally use those resistors in place of the stock values listed in build doc for R3 and R5. It looks like the packaging specifies that resistors were specifically chosen for that transistor in a Rangemaster build.

sweet..... i will have to give it a try

The Aaron Nelson tutorial is awesome! It's not really that hard. Just don't cut any corners on the sanding or really anything for that matter. All of his advice is spot on...

And wow!   Sweet builds Guitarmageddon! I especially love that distortion + in the 1590A.

I've built an etched 90 from the Tonepad layout. Needs jumpers, but it'll do.

Consider building a Ross.

Jacob

A Ross over a nautilus? I'm in, does tonepad have those?

Sent from my myTouch_4G_Slide using Tapatalk 2

Yep! It is a little spendy though. If you build one I'd love to hear your opinion. I might just have to give it a try.   Here is a link to ordering page at tonepad:

http://www.tonepad.com/tonepadshoppingcart.html

Jon W

Assuming you do have matched transistors and everything is working properly, you may just be looking for a deeper phase sound like the Phase 90. The Smoothie is pretty rich but it is not necessarily "intense". I would check out some Phase 45 videos on youTube and compare your results.

Thanks Brian, I did find a video here in the forum with the same results, I think you're right a phase 90 maybe what I'm after, don't know where I can an get a pcb for that do you? 

I'm pretty sure Tonepad still carries one. Probably guitarpcb, too. I would not mind doing a PCB for it, either, but I haven't put any time into it.

I got my phase 90 board from tonepad and it is great! It will take about 2 weeks or so for shipping as it is out of the states...

So i just finished a smoothie, but to me it sounds more vibrato than phaser. I didn't use a reverse audio pot, just a normal audio pot., I'm still waiting on one to get here in Monday hopefully. With this make a difference at all or is there a way to get a more phasery sound out of it?

I'm not sure how the normal pot affects the smoothie, but overall, it is a pretty subtle phaser. I love this thing when I'm playing stuff like lynard skynrd, but it is not suitable for EHV, etc. If that's what your looking for I would build a phase 90 or something similar...

cool build, in true to pickdropper tradition 

Correct. His builds are inspiring me to look into etching. Outstanding stuff.

BTW Pickdropper, can you suggest any online resources for someone looking to get into etching enclosures?

Hey Axe, I learned through trial and error, so I don't really have any particular online resources I can point you to.  However, I can help explain how to setup the artwork for the results that I get.  The artwork is actually the key, IMHO.  The laser engraver is just a cool tool to execute it.

I would also love to hear your advice on how to setup the artwork. I really want to do a laser engraving...

Yes, it sure can. It does not matter which you use. I forgot to mention that in the build docs...I tend to have the 3P4Ts on hand myself since they are so versatile. The one thing you can do with a 3P4T is use LED indicators for each mode if you like.

Does anyone have any info on how to wire tri-color led using 3p4t? I would love to add this to the nautilus I'm working on but my understanding of switches is lacking at this point...

For a common cathode led, you could connect the ground to the cathode and then each of the leads to 5,6,7 on the switch from the diagram on the mutron instructions and then connect b to a 9v source.  Havent tried it but i think it will work.

Thanks for the info! Do you know if the led would turn on/off with the foot switch or if it would remain on during bypass?

Yes, it sure can. It does not matter which you use. I forgot to mention that in the build docs...I tend to have the 3P4Ts on hand myself since they are so versatile. The one thing you can do with a 3P4T is use LED indicators for each mode if you like.

Does anyone have any info on how to wire tri-color led using 3p4t? I would love to add this to the nautilus I'm working on but my understanding of switches is lacking at this point...

Awesome! Where did you source the 10uF tant cap? I can't find it anywhere!

it was quite a while back now but i think i got it at mammoth electronics. If now it was either small bear or mouser....

Edit: it looks like u can get them at small bear. They are listed under electrolytics on page 2