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DEAL OF THE CENTURY! These guys sell some really great vero board in massive sizes for complex projects.
check 'em out

http://www.veroboard.com/86x50pcs-e12-1-14watt-full-range-resistor-kit-p-209.html

I would love to do a stereo, ping-pong delay...probably pt2399 based. I love using a w/d setup or w/d/w setup with multiple amps. the spread you can achieve leads to some truly massive tones. I have a schematic somewhere for a stereo version of the echo base I found a while ago. don't think it's ping-pongable but it might be a good starting point. making the ping-pong feature switchable would be cool too.

I'd love to do a good buffer/splitter/mixer. mainly for running delays and reverbs in parallel. something pedalboard sized like RJM music's mini line mixer but with 3-4 "send switches" for different channels.

I'm thinking it should have an input>buffer/split>have a dry through channel with a level control> and a switch for each effect channel> return for each and corresponding level pot.

maybe it could have mono in and switchable mono/stereo out. something for phase reversal.

when I had a rack setup, I used a 16 mono channel/ 8 stereo channel mixer with a few different delay units(tc electronic - gforce, d-two, strymon brigadere and elcap.) all running in stereo. I think delays sound so much more natural and spacious like that (if thats your thing). A panner control might be a cool addition too.

    I've missed using parallel verb and delay since gutting my rack. It would be great if that could be stuffed into a smallish footprint, a 1590bb is probably pushing it with all those jacks and switches. one of those larger trapezoidal boxes might be big enough without getting clumsy.

I haven't posted any reports in a while but I have been busy. here's a few new ones that got finished recently.

1. Cave Dweller. I have been working on about half a dozen or so different pt2399 projects at the moment but this went to the top of the list. I found Beans demo really interesting because it is a bit different that most of the rebote-alikes out there and I like doing these mini pedals so much. this is the 2 chip version. went together really quickly and the only hiccup was a 1n4001 put in backwards. need to get a stronger eyeglass prescription. I think I will get the most use out of the less extreme control settings. this is a really neat sounding delay and it does a decent faux reverb as well. I think having the mix control is almost a must for the way I will be using this effect.



2. Cosmonaut.  a cosmopolitain built to lunar-module specs. quicly becoming my go to fuzz-box. Gets all the fuzz face tones I could want with a ton of versatility. I used nos bc108 transistors. one of gtr2's breakout boards ( highly recomended ) and it was easy to fit into a 1590a enclosure since I used 9mm pots secured with a strip of vero to make connections sturdy. I am considering using this method for all my controls from now on. it affords me more room to playwith inside the box and keeps the pots from rotating when installing the nuts. and I mounted the pcb using some bus wire soldered to a few empty vero slots on the strip holding the pots and open space on the pcb's ground plane. the board is completely immobilized and it the offboard wiring's solder joints from being str
essed by a loose board rattling around inside. I could bang a nail with this pedal as a hammer and nothing is going to come loose.



3. AMZ power supply. easy build and works just like it should. runs on a 12volt adapter. and supplies -9v, four +9v taps, an adjustable +9v and under to simulate voltage sag for the dying battery effect, useful in certain fuzz boxes, a +12v tap , and an+18v tap. all well regulated. and i used the enclosure as a heat sink for the regulator. no gut shot at the moment. I etched the cover plate and re-purposed a box that was drilled incorrectly for a long since abandoned project.

I was looking for the thread with surplus electronic supply mentioned but couldnt find it. I ordered a bunch of stuff. and I have to say that their open framed mono jacks are the heaviest ones I've ever seen and they are $.65!!! they must be military grade. no joke!!! I've never seem jacks this well built. they make neutric and switchcraft look flimsy. their knob selection is great too just make sure you pay attention to shaft size when ordering.

what's up people. haven't posted anything in quite a while. here's a little something I've cobbled together over the last few months. inspired by the foxrox captain coconut. it's got a npn germanium fuzz face. an octaivia, and a neovibe. all powered from an amz power supply pcb. I used switchable jacks so if you play the effects in the order they're placed in you only need 2 cables, however they each have they're own input and output so you can change the order if you wish. The octave on the octavia is controlled by a push/pull pot as is the chorus/vibrato on the vibe. an expression pedal jack is supplied for the vibes speed control. the fuzz and octavia are both built using nos carbon comp resistors, and I believe the ff uses ac 127 transistors. the power supply is fed by a 12V 1000ma adapter and in addition to powering the 3 effects IU have included dc outputs for + and - 9v to run my wah or a pos ground fuzz while only using the one adapter.

the "Sugarfoot" wah is built to clyde specs on turret board with nos tropical fish caps, some styroflex caps, and nos carbon comp resistors. it has a whipple inductor and an Icar taper pot. I sprayed everything with black wrinkle paint which is becomming my paint of choice. it is industrial strength and idiot proof.

this was a ton of work to pull off but the results are fantastic. it is extremely quite a hum free and sounds amazing.

I'm getting ready to start a dig-dug build and I noticed some thing weird. I'm using a hand etched board and the single sided layout and the one at the top of the build docs have the square pads of all the leds on  the daughter board reversed from each other. am I seeing things wrong? witch pad does the long lead go into. the square pad or the round. is there and update I'm missing. I just need some clarification to avoid a bunch of desoldering later on. would someone with a working build please chime in.

what investment in our hobby has really paid off for you guys.

mine would be a samsung 310 series laser printer. it makes awesome transfer artwork for etching, and flawless waterslide decals that don't need clearcoat prior to apllication. got it at office max on clearance for $59!!!

a peak atlas semiconductor analyzer. for finding out gains and pinouts of transistors. specs on diodes etc. really has saved my but on a few debugs. openhaus I'm looking at you.

and my panavise swiveling pcb holder. I've driven my soldering iron into my right thigh while wearing shorts for the last time. I really wish iwas joking about that one.

I'd love to hear what some of you guys have come up with.

since I had such a good time building my hotcake clone, I decided to have a go at it's brother in arms the "prunes and custard"

my "prawns and mustard" was built on bahaman's layout I got off fsb last year. I forgot I had it until I was organizing my computer files. I had a real on a few years ago and this sounds spot on. If you've never heard one, check out some online demos. this fuzz is super unique. at extreme mix and drive settings it takes on an envelope filter sort of quality to the clipping causing all kinds of intermodulating frequencies. the sustained notes bloom with fizzy liquid like harmonic soup. it can also be used with bass and the lo frequency contour switch adds to the versatility of the fuzz.

I used a dpdt switch with an optocoupler switching circuit based on voodoo lab's bypass method. the perf is mounted on the back of the led and fixed to the floor of the box with double sided foam tape.

this ones been sitting in my box of stuff waiting for enclosures. I built it last year and forgot how cool it was. I put everything in a 1590b finished it with a full face decal of a modified rolls royce logo, matched to the paint color. a few coats of clear and we're done. great low gain pedal.

I've had a few days off from work, so I've been on a real tear with fuzz building. Here's a dam dragonfly clone I put together today. I added a few extra rows and jumpers to make the offboard wiring a little neater because vero builds are usually very difficult to assemble elegantly.

The etch is from a tarot card illustration that I reworked a bit.

This thing sounds really great. I used a 2n3904 for Q1 and a CV7112 for Q2. Was no trouble at all to dial in. sounds thick and heavy and fat as hell. the filter control helps shape the tone quite a bit by draining some of the input signal to ground, or not. walks the line between Fuzz Face and Tonebender. Doesn't clean up that great with the guitar's volume knob. But with fuzz like that, who would turn down?

Here's a mojo hotcake clone done on soulsonic's layout. It uses a metal can lm741 opamp, and some giant 10n box caps that I haven't found a use for yet. I modified the board to add a clr for the led.
     It was a little tricky getting it to fit in a 1590b. I think Martin intended it for a bb enclosure. I had to use some adhesive backed felt to insulate the tops of the jacks. it uses an odd (for me at least) bypass system so there wasn't much switch wiring.  I used a dpdt.
      I had downloaded someones clone graphics a longtime ago but changed the text a bit. I'd never be looking to pass it off as the real thing. I had a real one a while ago and sold it because it was way too dark and the lower gain settings were pretty lifeless. those faults are not the case witch this one. It's gonna be getting a lot off use. finished on a powdercoated enclosure from mammoth, with full frontal decal and a couple coats of satin finish nitro spraycan lacuer from Stew Mac I had in the cabinet.The lacquer made the decal bleed but not enough to bum me out at all. I'm sure it'll get the paint stomped off of it before long anyway.

Been wanting to put one of these together for quite some time. It's a Fuzz Face and Rangemaster combo. I added a B50K pot in series with the Fuzz Face's input like the "bias" control on the Fulltone '69. I also added an order switcher on a 3pdt switch between each effect. I used a couple different russian transistors on the Fuzz Face witch are quickly becoming my new favorites in this circuit, and an oc44 on the booster. I'm gonna change the switch on the boost to an on-off-on to add another frequency option. I grabbed some old horror movie posters online to use as graphics and this one seemed to fit well. I also tried a new clear coat on this project. Dupli-Color acrylic enamel wich I highly recommend. 3 coats, wet sand, and 3 more coats and that's all she wrote smooth as glass and super shiny. It also seems very tough and scratch resistant.

here's a DAM super bee clone I built this afternoon.I got the layout a while ago on fsb IIRC. I had everything on hand more or less so It went together pretty quick, aside from biasing it, I really gotta start breadboarding these things first, cuz pulling parts on vero is a royal bitchfest. It's got an oc75 for q1, and a mullard oc76 for q2. havent etched an aluminum enclosure in quite some time so I figured I'd work on my technique a little. it came out really clean and sharp. It is etched super shallow, you almost can't even feel it on the surface.

soundwise this thing is bad ass! nice sag on the lower notes that bloom into warm sustain. and the upper range has a crisp presence without being harsh at all. It resides squarely in the tonebender camp. but cleans up much better than any mkII or III I've played.

powered by the madbean road rage of coarse.

Here is a build of a Ross phaser with an add on board for extra stages. I etched the boards from a Tonepad layout. The two boards together took up a ton of room(bigger than would fit in a 1590bb) so after assembly, I bookended them and folded one over the other, and fixed the two together with some double sided foam tape on the backs of the lm13600's(as shown in the photo.) The layout on the extrastage board allowed a notch to be cut so the board culd fit around the led bezel. The jacks fit between the two boards, and it was fixed into the box with a few strips of double stick. A slice of adhesive backed foam on the inside of the bottom lid sandwiches everything in nice and firm. It was tricky but everything fit comfortably into a Pedal Enclosures box. I've been on a real kick building phasers,vibes, and other mod effects but this has got to be my favorite so far. With the extra stages switched in, it is a super thick, lush, almost univibe sound. at the height of the resonance control the pulse is massive. Good stuff.

just finished the quadrovibe, and man oh man did Bean do a great job on this design. sounds wonderful. haven't played around with any adjustments yet. I decided to wire the speed pot in reverse so it would function like the "brake" on a leslie cab. I'm planning on adding an expression pedal jack in the open space on the right. I can use the same pedal I'm building for another project. I would reccomend wiring the chop trimmer as an external pot cuz it will make the trem a little more versatile. this pedal is a lot of fun. I kept playing "sleepwalk" with it and it was really dreamy sounding.

no problems dialing it in. etched up the charge pump board on the docs to save as much space possible. used a 3pdt swith so I could put led indicators for the trem/vib switch. made my own board mounted pots, and etched a full face plate.

tomorrow I'm gonna experiment with running my direct sound into a separate amp to see if I can get some univibe sounds.

as I am nearly out of room on my pedaltrain, and I can't live without a serendipity. I used my last fabbed pcb to make one in a 1590a. I modified the board slightly so it wouldn't get hung up in the enclosure. I used 2 9mm pots and 2 16mm pots for the controls and skipped any sockets for components to save vertical space. I used adhesive backed foam to secure the board and insulate the exposed ground plane. finished in deep blue with prismatic flake clear.

Here's a lunar module built on a cosmopolitan board I called the "Cosmonaut" as a play on the 2 titles. I followed bigmuffuzzwizz's and jakefuzz's build instructions. It's a really easy build and a great sounding fuzz. it's a lot like the screwdriver but smoother and a little warmer. It's great for those soaring David Gilmour solo's. I put in a bent steel enclosure( a real mutha to drill out by the way) and etched a faceplate out of some really thin pcb stock that I bought for just that purpose.

here's a thunderpuss and a slambox both in 1590a's the thunderpuss is finished with clear transparency covered with epoxy. it's the glossiest most durable finish I've ever done. the slambox was a little rushed but came out pretty good anyway, finished with gold enamel-waterslide-clear.

here is a new build of an aristocrat. I did this one similar to the ver. 2 kot I used to own. I traded it for something else and regretted it ever since. it is still a 2 channel pedal but it operates with a bypass switch and a channel select switch. it has a global drive and tone control each done with a dual gang pot. and each channel has it's own volume. I stuffed everything snuggly into a 125b enclosure. of all the kot versions this format is my favorite I set the yellow channel for clean boost and the red channel for overdrive with a slight volume increase.