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I'm having issues wiring up my Zero Point Mini. Compared to the Hipster I built (which still doesn't work right for reasons unknown), it's confounding me. There's no wiring diagram in the build doc, nor is there a similar setup of pads that indicate where each line is supposed to go like on the Hipster. I tried using madbean's old 3PDT wiring diagram, but the result is noise, noise, noise. I figure my grounding wiring is incorrect, but again, I'm not really sure where everything supposed to go. What should the wiring be? Thanks!

I solved my first issue of no signal when the pedal is engaged, swapped out IC3 for that fix. (I actually found a whole bag of IC's still sealed in electrostatic bags, I think I killed the first ICs I put into this build which is why it wasn't working.)

Now my issue is the gain pot doesn't increase gain. Instead there's a slight decrease in volume, not really like compression I don't think, but still not correct. Tone and Volume work perfectly & cleanly. I'm still completely ignorant when it comes to the math of these builds, so be gentle.    Any ideas? Thanks in advance, you geniuses!

EDIT: I did true-bypass wiring as well as the Thick & Fat & Clip switchable mods.

So the ground loop issue was because it wasn't grounded. It's a tiny enough build, putting it in the box wasn't a big deal. The issue now is it's not sounding like a fuzz should. Borrowed a friend's fuzz in the meantime for this gig, but I still want to finish this one for myself. I'll post values whenever I get the chance. Thanks.

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Hey gang, been a while since I've been here. Haven't built any pedals lately, was busy building a Tele Thinline. Pic attached below.

Anyhoo, I've got a couple pedals that require using the wall-wart due to voltage requirements, so I'm wondering if adding the Road Rage would allow me to ditch the wall-warts vs. buying a Voodoo Lab Digital to work alongside my Voodoo Lab PP2+. The PP2+ powers most of my pedals, but also feeds a power strip which is feeing my OneSpot. I have an Eventide and a tube-based overdrive that requires 12VAC, both receiving their power from the power strip. I rarely use my 18v MXR Stereo Chorus, but it'd be nice to be able to put it into the chain.

Thoughts? If I *was* able to use a Road Rage or two, how exactly would I implement them? I'm a bit out of the loop on this stuff since my building hiatus.

Thanks in advance.

Been gone for a while.  I got discouraged by the aforementioned Sunking build and then my own minor economic crisis.  Hoping to start building again here shortly.

As for the Sunking, I got some help from my genius building buddy (who's started his own pedal building biz making original circuits now, closing in on 100 builds, we're gonna launch a website soon).  He discovered I goofed the value on one of the first resistors in the circuit.    Stupid resistor!  After that, I found that the volume on the pedal wasn't bypassing, so I opened it up and found I incorrectly attached the S6 lead to the wrong terminal on the X-wing switch.  Fixed that, and now I'm rockin' with my new über-transparent Sunking.  It's a glorious thing.

Wanted to say thanks to the guys who did their best trying to help me figure out where I went wrong on this build.  Still irritated that I didn't discover the issue with my Ohm meter & signal tester.  But whatever.  Time to move on and tackle something new!

One of my guitarists wants to replace the DPDT switch in his MXR GT-OD with a 3PDT.  He's not sure how to connect it, where the leads go.  I don't have the pedal in front of me, so I can't easily surmise how he should do it.  Thoughts?  Thanks, gents.

So if you've ever wondered what certain pedals might sound like, here's a vid of a shootout between thirty-some-odd stomps, including the upcoming redesigned Klon!  You don't see it unfortunately, but it's not far off.  Enjoy!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WuTt8YFblcE&feature

Finally got my 10kB pots in today so I put them in and fired this puppy up and got two undesired results:

First, got the high-pitched squealing a few other guys have been talking about, so I checked the charge pump IC, and it's the CPA rather than a SCPA.  That should be an easy fix once I can get to my local shop and find an SCPA (although I ended up with the CPA version the last time I went there). 

Second, the gain pot does nothing.  No change at all in the overdrive/clipping level when turned.  Tone and volume pots function as expected.  I did Madbean's Eleventy Bajillion Diodes mod (found here: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=1107.0), so I don't know whether I did something goofy or what.  Double-checked all my wiring, including the wiring going two and from the switches for the diodes mod.  Here's a couple shots of the guts:




Thanks in advance to any and all who have input and can help me get this puppy running! 

Nicely done!  Keep it up, mang! 

This might fall under the "duh" category, but before I go changing my stuff I like to check with my fellow enthusiasts.  I'm wanting to switch to a different tuner for my board and would need to use the tuner out on my VP Jr. (I like having the tuner on all the time and go silent using the volume pedal).  However, I keep reading and hearing from other players that using both the tuner- and amp-outs on the VP Jr. causes one's tone to fall victim to tone suckage.  I don't like tone suckage.  

According to the doods over at JHS Pedals, the tone suckage comes from the signal path being parallel.  I'm trying to keep some real estate open on my pedal board as I've been changing/adding other things on my rig as a whole.  I'd rather not put my Morley A/B/Y box back on the board, it's just too big for my current setup.  Would it work to wire both the tuner- and amp-outs directly from the input jack rather than input jack > tuner out > amp out?  Thanks, gents. (and ladies, if we have any builders of the female persuasion)

The TS7 is one of my all-time favorite pedals ever.  LOVE this thing.  $40 for one of the most transparent and harmonically FANTASTIC overdrives I've ever heard in my life?  Yes, please!  My favorite Tubescreamer hands down.  My only niggle is the switch on it.  There's a brief drop in the signal when switching it.  I'd really like to swap out the actuator for an actual switch, but I really don't know if I want to put the pedal into a new enclosure, and I really like the lid-style switch (or whatever it's called). Plus I'm not exactly sure how I'd wire it in, haven't ever completely taken apart a TS7 before.  Thoughts/ideas/suggestions?

I've been all over Small Bear and Pedal Parts Plus, and I can't find this darned 390n (.39uF or .39mF) cap.  Suggestions?  TIA.

EDIT: Also trying to find BAT41 diodes, where can I find those?

There's an additional square pad underneath where the R9 resistor is supposed to go... what's it for??  I don't want to put a resistor over it and block it if I need to use it for something... Thanks!

I've got a guy who borrowed one of my SHO builds and fell in love with how it made his 5-string Ibanez sound.  Apparently the electronics cavity in his bass is plenty big enough for more components, and he wants to drop one of the SHO circuits into it with a toggle switch, pot & LED.  Two questions:

1.) Would this 3PDT toggle switch do the job?  It's an "on-on" switch, dunno if that makes a difference.

2.) I'm guessing the simplest way to integrate the circuit into the bass's electronics would be to run the SHO between the final output from the bass's electronics and the bass's output jack.  Yay/nay?

Thanks!

Help!  I replaced the pot in my Crybaby a couple months ago and have been so happy to have it back, but now when I engage it the volume slowly drops out over the course of a couple seconds.  When I switch it back off, the dry signal is usually fine.  Switch it back on, volume drop.  Occasionally the volume drop will happen a bit when it's switched off.  Could this be a bad inductor?  Thanks, all!


**UPDATE:  So I called Dunlop directly to get some help.  They worked with me for several months on my disobedient MXR Stereo Chorus pedal and really came through, so I hit them back so one of their techs to guide me through testing the Crybaby (and I learned how to use a multimeter in the process  **noob alert**).  Turns out the Q3 transistor is running at half of what it's supposed to, and in the tech's claimed seven years at Dunlop this is one of the trouble spots for Crybaby's alongside the switch (which tested just fine), the pot (which I just replaced), and something else that I can't recall but also tested fine.  Conveniently, a buddy of mine was nearby a local electronics parts surplus shop and picked up a few replacement trannies for me, so next week I'll swap that little guy out and see if it's the right cure.  Will keep you gents posted! 

Now I'm gonna go use my new multimeter on my misbehaving clothes dryer... ahhh, what a way to spend my day off of work... 

I've got a guy who asked me to build him a fuzz (he really likes our swirl paint jobs), and he's very intrigued by the Skreddy's sound.  Possibility?

I was building a few Slamboxes yesterday with one of my church players: one for me, one for him and one for his son.  For the life of us we could not get the LED to light up.  Signal path was fine, the pedal functioned aurally the way it's supposed to, but that dang LED would not pass go and collect its $200.  I was getting frustrated as I was all ready to do the LED+Plexiglas border. 

On a whim, my friend swapped the LED leads going into the board, and BAM.  Worked like a charm.  So either the board is incorrect, LED's use square terminal for negative instead of positive, or we goofed something else along the line.  Can anyone else confirm? 

I'm just happy it works now.  Will try to post pics in a couple days, flying out today for a gig up in DC. 

If this isn't really a mod, feel free to delete. 

My first build was the Krankosaurus.  Love it, but at first I was having issues with the overall tone.  Wayyy too much bass, getting a really squished sound, more like a fuzz than a Marshall-esque distortion.  As per suggested by Madbean:

C1 - replace with 22n.  After dialoging with an electrical engineering buddy, I learned the 22n is a more suitable high-pass filter for the initial signal coming through the pedal. 

But I can never seem to find any!  Every time I come across someone who makes 'em, it turns out I'm six months too late and they don't make 'em any more.  Where are you guys getting your sweet finished enclosures fromthese days?