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Messages - pauloman80

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151
Build Reports / Re: Ego Driver
« on: May 24, 2010, 03:49:08 PM »
Here is the url.

http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=77750.0


Thanks, mang. Gonna check that out.

EDIT: HOOOOOOOOOO!  Some NICE boxes.  Dad-GUM.  Thanks for the link!!!

152
Build Reports / Re: Neutrino and Quasar Builds
« on: May 24, 2010, 11:53:17 AM »
Super nice builds, man.  Question, where'd you get your electrolytic caps?  The ones I bought off Small Bear doesn't have the leads coming off the same end, they're at opposite ends of the housing and were a bit of a pain to work around as far as getting the enclosure closed. 

Those are axial leads; what you want is radial.  smallbear should have those too.

Aha...  Man, I really wish I'd known that before buying all my parts... grrrrrr!  Oh well.  At least now I can save myself the trouble in the future.  ::) Thanks, Haberdasher.

153
Build Reports / Re: Ego Driver
« on: May 24, 2010, 11:47:10 AM »
Nice build, man. Where do you get your enclosures?  Those finishes are sweeeeeet.

154
Build Reports / Re: Neutrino and Quasar Builds
« on: May 21, 2010, 07:15:34 PM »
Super nice builds, man.  Question, where'd you get your electrolytic caps?  The ones I bought off Small Bear doesn't have the leads coming off the same end, they're at opposite ends of the housing and were a bit of a pain to work around as far as getting the enclosure closed. 

155
General Questions / Solder tip size?
« on: May 20, 2010, 10:55:36 AM »
What size have you found to be the best for PCB builds?  The ones I have are a bit large and tend to make the soldering a tad challenging.  If you have part #'s on Small Bear or Mouser of your faves, that'd be even better.

156
Build Reports / Re: Deadringer
« on: May 18, 2010, 07:29:21 PM »
Very cool! Can't believe you got all of that crammed into that box.

Seriously.

And man.  That finish... that's blowing my mind.  Very, very cool.  Couple questions, if you don't mind:

-Looking at the insides, is the DC jack at the top "above" the PCB?  And which jack are you using?
-How are you mounting your LEDs?  I see what looks like a little sleeve around the ends.
-I never thought to twist the wires.  Simply brilliant.
-Where did you get that enclosure with such a fantastic finish?!

157
Build Reports / Re: Krankosaurus build...
« on: May 18, 2010, 11:10:01 AM »
Looks very nice!

Thanks, mjc!  Once I get it sounding nice, I'll be set.

158
Build Reports / Re: Krankosaurus build...
« on: May 18, 2010, 11:09:30 AM »
Excellent work!
Very professional.

Nice touch with the Marshall knobs, too.

Thanks, pandadandan.  Tried really hard to keep it nice and clean.  I went with the Marshall knobs since it's essentially a Marshall-In-A-Box.  ;D

159
Build Reports / Re: Krankosaurus build...
« on: May 18, 2010, 11:08:24 AM »
Very nice and very clean, Paulo. Try 22n for C1. That should remove the excess bass. Or, socket C1 and try a few values over/under 22n to see what works best for you.

Thanks, Madbean!  I had a bit of a tough time getting everything to fit into that case, but I'm really glad it did, I love the smaller form factor.  Definitely had to change the routing diagram to make it work, and even then I had to jerry-rig a few bits here & there and re-drill a few holes to get everything to fit nicely and not short out.  

Replace C1 with a 22n, great, I'll give that a go for sure as well.  Here's the other advice I received, let me know what you think:

  • Try smaller caps at C2 and C4 (both of which are 22n) if the effects on reducing the cap at C1 are too great.
  • Try going with smaller resistors at R16 and R17, start with 4.7k and go up or down as needed.
  • C8 and C9 could probably be replaced with .001uf caps.

Yay?  Nay?  Changing just the one cap as you suggested will be much easier, so hopefully just switching the one out should do it.  Thoughts?

160
Build Reports / Krankosaurus...
« on: May 18, 2010, 08:54:24 AM »
UPDATE: Changed out the first cap from a 100n to a 22n, that totally solved my overly-bassy-attack issue.  Hooo, boy.  This thing sounds killer, it's a great little detour from my usual sound, nice to have another tone in the fold.

Woohoo.  Not bad for my first foray.  Some strange things happening with the attack on the low end, sounds kinda fuzz-eqsue, like there's too much bottom end going into it.  Going to try some different resistors & caps in certain places as was advised to me by some pedal-building buds on another forum.  Madbean, you got any suggestions?





161
Build Reports / Re: Sunking
« on: April 27, 2010, 06:50:41 AM »
Very impressive build, man.  Very clean.  I like.  Two thumbs up!

162
Thanks, Lincoln.  I was suspicious that's what the C stood for.  They do have the pot design I want to use in 5k reverse at Small Bear, so I'll be good to go.  Bezel is a good idea, I also got a suggestion on just using a bit of hot glue.  

EDIT: I think one of the reasons Dan suggested wiring the LED from the DC jack is there aren't LED pads on this particular PCB, so the LED's have to be jerry-rigged into the wiring.

You could use a bezel for your LEDs so they'll stay exactly where you want them.

C is a reverse audio taper. Small Bear doesn't seem to have too many values for that, but to be fair I didn't look that hard - you should definitely double check.

163
Thanks kindly, Panda.  Just to clarify, are the terminals on the bottom of the switch normally marked like the diagram (ABC across, 123 down)?  Just want to make sure I make the right connections.  Also, any suggestions on mounting the LED's so they stay in place poking through the enclosure? 

Last question: Madbean lists the Gain and Boost pots as 5kC.  I thought it might be equivalent to a 500k audio pot, but now I'm not so sure.  Once again, Small Bear lists it differently.  I know 100kB refers to a 100k linear pot, but I made a guess at what C stood for (C means 100 in Roman numerals, so I thought it might translate to 500k).  How do I translate Madbean's listed value to find the right pot at Small bear?

Thanks again, dood.

Assuming you just want one LED:

From the 9v DC jack, you need to run an additional wire.  This wire should connect to a resistor (4k7) which then connects to the long lead of an LED.  The short lead then needs to have a wire connecting it to the unused (top right) lug of the 3pdt switch.

If you want two LEDs, you just run two wires from the 9v DC jack and double up.

DC JACK     ---------   [4.7k resistor]   -----    ~~~~~~~[LED]~~~~    -----------    3PDT

164
Greetings from central Florida.

***UPDATE 2x: I have since figured out nearly everything I need.  Seems my cry for help was premature.  However, I do still have a few questions regarding the schematic for the Krankosaurus (which, I realized about two hours ago, has a version 3.0 that I didn't notice, helped answer several other questions). 

First: what is the box in the lower left below J2 on the third page of the .pdf file?  Is that the power jack?

Next: I saw the notice that LED wiring isn't shown in the schematic.  How then should I work LEDs into the mix?  Small Bear has a PC wiring board for their 3PDT switch that allows for easy addition of an LED and also provides for true bypass operation, but the terminals don't seem to line up with how the switch wires up to the PCB.  Suggestions?

Lastly: ... crap, I forget.  I'll leave this space here in case I remember.

Thanks in advance, all.

-pauloman80

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