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Quick question... I think...

Working on a J Mascis (Dino Jr) spec Big Muff with the help of Kit Rae's wonderful site. I plan on using a mudbunny but including the power filtering too.

Anyways, he bypasses the volume pot for his boost, but I'm wondering the best way to do this. Just a simple SPST between lugs 2&3 seems like it would work, but there would still be signal draw going to ground depending on the position of the pot? So with that logic, a DPDT would work best to remove the pot entirely from the circuit, but that seems overkill. And would I need to add a resistor in series to emulate a dimed volume pot?

The way he works it is he sets his max boost volume with the bypass engaged, for his lead tone. Then he uses the volume knob in non-bypass to set his rhythm volume. Starts high, and works his way back.

EDIT: second question: Might as well not start a new thread...

The mudbunny and a lot of other muff pcbs have the clipping caps after the diodes with a non-polarized cap. But in the original circuits, its a 100v Electrolytic placed on the base side of the cap, not the collector side. What, if any, effect would this have on the clipping?

Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

My buddy has the Gold Pigtronix Philosopher's Twin Germanium version from Sweetwater. It started having some erratic behavior so he asked me to look at it. I assumed it was just some dirty pot or loose connection. It's only a little over a year old and barely used in his studio. It's beyond warranty though.

Anyhow, what seems to happen is there is some kind of loose connection or something happening that will cause it drop all signal. Then when the signal comes back in, it slowly builds up, but is real noisy. The only visual thing I noticed is one of the ceramic caps looks a little awkward at the leg, like its cracked, but that seems fairly typical. Nothing spilling or anything. There is an optocoupler, VTL5c6 in it and I'm wondering if thats the issue.

I can't for the life of me figure it out. Poked around, havent seen anything out of the ordinary. Voltages seem correct everywhere. Usually Full 18V or 9v depending on the point. As far as I can tell its the Philosphers Tone circuit with an added Grit Stomp that just changes/bypasses R4, I cant remember right now.

Any suggestions on what to check next? I'll try to get a video or sound clip If I can.

Anyone ever see or use an overdrive circuit as an onboard active tone control? I've got a vero timmy that would go well in on of my upcoming tele builds. Also have a kingslayer and fatpants that could work well. Other than committing to the effect on the guitar, Anyone ever see something like this? I keep my timmy on all the time anyways.

I could just use a push pull or even dual gang volume control for active/ passive.

Well. I had a few last night. Decided to finish my multiplex board. I completely ignored the "slow down and pay attention" note.

So. I'm having a hell of a time desoldering the rotary. Used a sucker. Braid, etc. I just cant seem to get it all. Think a heat gun might work to loosen all the solder remnants? I need to test all the pass after   I cut the leads flush to make it easier but still can't get it.

Ugh. The more I drink the more I have reasons to drink. Lol.

I can't seem to find any markings on this. I remember buying them some time ago but don't know what they are. A little larger than a 1n4001.  Any help is appreciated. I think I picked em up at the time I built my timmy, ts808(landgraf) and Rc booster but was planning a muff build too.

(holding over my spark plug  I was populating.$

Thanks

For those of you who are big breadboarders, Circuit Specialists have a pretty nice looking powered breadboard for $89 right now...

http://www.circuitspecialists.com/powered-protoboard-system-with-two-digital-panel-meters.html?utm_source=pbb-272a&utm_medium=email_campaign&utm_campaign=emc_00011&utm_source=Circuit+Specialists+Newsletter&utm_campaign=33a48e952a-EMC_00011_16_Jan_2015&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_dd242259e3-33a48e952a-52918557

I don't have any experience with it, but I have one of their digital soldering stations and it was the best investment I made, and only cost I think $35 at the time, and came with a free DMM.

Simply asked, is a adding a boost circuit to an overdrive as simple as a switch, pot, resistor,-> feedback loop <- cap to VB?

I'm just looking at the differences of the Tim and the Timmy and was just wondering. I couldn't seem to find anything on Beavis regarding this without going into a transistor boost circuit. I'm looking for something that I could add into say the sparkplug possibly. obviously values would need to be tuned.

Any links to additional resources I missed? Beavis and geofex turned up empty.

Has anyone else seen these yet? The price sure looks good. I suspect the 5w is a valve jr.

5 Watt... http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=115&cp_id=11501&cs_id=1150102&p_id=611705&seq=1&format=2
15 Watt... http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=115&cp_id=11501&cs_id=1150102&p_id=611815&seq=1&format=2

Not sure if this should go in tech help or mod, but i'll ask the question....

Assuming I'm reading correctly, if I wanted to add the soft switch to the 2012 ed. board, I can just add a 3n3 on a switch to ground and piggyback Level Pot pin 3?

It's just a passive low pass filter yeah?

Anything else I should do to the 2012 now? Parts subs?

I'm working on a fatpants build with an Egodriver and a 3pdt toggle to switch pedal order. Wondering if anyone else found it useful to actually have a stomp for the fatpants or if should keep it always on, or just use a toggle.

The only reason I could maybe see is as a boost Ego->FP, but i havent used them yet. Just curious, I know a few guys have done the same combo pedal.

Has anyone ran into issues with a diy pedalsnake?

I have this one (http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=115&cp_id=11509&cs_id=1150904&p_id=8763&seq=1&format=2&utm_expid=58369800-11.R-enhtUGRrSdHz5vzpVS2g.0&utm_referrer=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.monoprice.com%2FCategory%3Fc_id%3D115%26cp_id%3D11509%26cs_id%3D1150904) from monoprice, and havent made my power connection yet, because I'm a little worried about running my board off of it, although, most of my pedals are low power. They are only 25AWG.

Anyone see any issues? Maybe i should add an inline fuse to the power line?

my plan was to run 9v on one pair, one stereo to my reverb/trem switch for the amp, and then just use the other two for my A/B to my normal/top boost channels (AC15c1). I could split the stereo cable but why waste the effort when i dont need the other channel.

It's been a while since I worked on anything pedal related. My little girl is 8 months old now and the house is a bit more organized that I'm getting some more free time. I still have about 12 pcbs sitting around and now replanning all my builds. Waiting for Tayda to come around with a coupon code so I can stock up on some stuff.

Here are the builds I'm planning this year...
125b (sideways maybe or 1590bb) Flapjack and Rangemaster combo
1590bb Kingslayer and Bearhug combo - The OD will be on a footswitch and probably have a toggle to swap Comp - >OD or OD-> comp(boost)
1590bb Fatpants and Egodriver combo
125b Sparkplug
125b Black 65
125b Moon Lander
1590bb Multiplex
Jubilee drive if I can fit it.

I run a Timmy (Vero), Ts808 (GGG landgraff clone), BBE two timer delay, and a Quasar (RC booster) right now.

Any combo or build suggestions? Im thinking fatpans/ego first and then the moon lander. I'm curious if anyone finds any of these as must haves on their boards.

So I've become addicted to kickstarter. For those that don't know, kickstarter is a mechanism to get funding for projects in full before starting. Meaning, anyone that backs you doesnt pay a dime until your deadline hits AND you reach your goal. You offer various 'rewards' at different funding levels.

Anyways, I ran across http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1107117096/hydra-a-triple-output-power-supply-for-electronics?ref=discover_rec today... at $169 it's a bit steep though, but pretty cool none the less.

Software configurable tiny PSU with three voltage outputs. The unfortunate part is it maxes out at 12.0V. 15 and 18 wouldve been nice.

Anyways just thought I'd share. Happy Saturday.

I have about 6 PCBs right now that I'm populating and to save a little bit of cash, I was thinking about boxing some of them up together. What are your favorite combos? Any suggestions for what I have?

My PCBs: Bear Hug Compressor, Multiplex, Egodriver (OCD), Hotcake, Fatpants, Black '65 (I'm planning on ordering the Moon Lander (lunar deluxe fuzz) and a kingslayer (modified klon) when they are available too, and maybe a rubadub.

I wouldn't object to reboxing some of my current pedals, like my Timmy with the bearhug or the RC with the Kingslayer or something. My guess is the moon lander and multiplex should be by themselves unless I get hte rubadub then that will go with the multiplex.

My current setup is:
MIM tele w/bill lawrence keystones and 4-way switch, almost always run in series =>
Boss TU-2 => Behringer DynaComp (always on)  (my modded boss cs-3 is not playing nice) => Timmy clone (always on) => GGG TS-808 clone (Landgraff overdrive) => BBE Two Timer delay => RC Booster => A/B box (Normal/Top boost)
Vox AC15c1

Yes I need a rangemaster at some point but the rc and top boost channel work well for me right now.

Anybody ever think of or attempt use a stereo jack for input and outout on a 1590a and make some sort of daisy chain signal cable? So Tip in, Ring out, sleeve ground.

I was thinking you'd be able to, especially if you had a loop bypass board, run only one stereo cable in and out from there and then not need a 3pdt on the pedal itself, it would free up considerable room.

I havent made any 1590a pedals yet, but was just curious.  

What is the purpose of the 100R resistor in the Egodriver circuit at the power source? Why the voltage drop before pin 8?

I was just on adafruit.com looking for some stuff and saw this...https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/circuit-playground/id492487671.... looks pretty cool, I don't have either to test it out, it's $2.99

just thought id share

I started thinking about how my wife's craft cutter cuts adhesive backed vinyl for my pedals. Then I started thinking it would be best if I cut a bunch of labels at once. The cost of the vinyl isnt too much, but if I were to start making some precut sheets in various colors, would there be any interest in these?

I could provide in sheets of different common pot controls, level, gain, etc...
or if Brian was ok with it, I could go through and find what labels are needed for what pedals and provide them that way. This would be a very low cost item and would be limited to my availability. I'm talking probably be a couple bucks shipped in a first class envelope, but I'll have to calc it all out when i start getting the vinyl.

I'll try to cut some samples this weekend to show what can be done and to gauge interest. I'd also probably make myself available to do some custom ones for pedal names, or even multicolor designs if that was something people would like. Typically I can work with any TrueType font (and I have a lot). The detail of the font would restrict what sizes I could cut them out at. I can also trace stuff that are vector graphics relatively easily as well, but that takes more effort and therefore would cost more.

Another option is that of precut water slide decals. I can print them on inkjet sheets of waterslide, in full  color (except white) and have them cut out accurately around the printed images. This wouldnt be very practical for pot labels and such, but if you had a highly detailed image you wanted the edges cut really clean on I could do that. Not sure if this is a very practical item though.

I dunno, let me know what you think. I'm hoping to label some of my pedals this weekend, so I can show em off. For those interested in the machine I'd be using, its a craft silhouette cameo. It's a really cool machine and can be had for around $200.

Is there any concern for overpowering the input of my AC15? I have boosts and ODs that I stack on each other, about 4 usually but building more and I'm just wondering if I can push too much into the input of the amp. I run my Timmy up front after my compressor as my 'base' tone, then stack others on top of it. I obviously won't be running 8 dirt pedals on my board at once when they are all done.

Should I use the Compressor/Timmy to dip my levels a bit before stacking the others after it so my final boost stage is closer to the level of my dry signal?

Not sure if this has been posted on here somewhere, I didnt see it, but its an awesome pinout chart from Beavis Audio for transistors (varies by manufacturer obviously)

http://www.beavisaudio.com/techpages/Transistor-Pinouts/index.htm